NABRIL

I am having a gazebo built in the backyard which will have a small sink; this requires that the sewer and the water supply tie in to my existing plumbing. While trenching, they cut my main supply line which is highlighted in blue in the attached picture. To repair it, they made that u-shaped union. We also discovered that the line goes into the roots of a very large tree, and since my front yard is a mess in trenches, this is a good opportunity to reroute that supply line. The supply line is 1 inch in diameter.

The questions:
1. The contractor quoted $700 to do the work, which is a bit high on top of the gazebo. I've worked with pvc in the past, and I think I can do this. I have the trenches, and I just need to locate where I join the county's supply line. I assume that I can follow my supply line towards the meter, and I will eventually find my line joined to the county's line. Is that a good assumption. I can turn off the water, cut, and assemble my new line back to replace that blue U.

2. We have an outside hose spigot that is used to fill the pool often among other obvious things. When we do that, we notice a substantial decrease in pressure throughout the house. Can I alleviate this by making my new supply line segment wider than 1 inch as long as I stay below the size of the county's (hopefully 1.25 or 1.5 inch wide)? If the county's line is 1 inch, making mine bigger than that wont get me more pressure, right? Keep in mind that I have 10 feet or so of inaccessible supply line beyond that blue U that I cannot touch and goes into the house (to the right of the picture). I hope this makes sense.

3. I assume that my "new" suppy line should have as few bends and curves as possible so as to keep the pressure constant. Right?

I thank you

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Ghostmaker

I do hope your making all these tie in's after your meter. In my area if you touch the county water you would be in a world of hurt.

NABRIL

Yes all my work will happen between the meter and my house.

Ishmael

My first thought was that they realized they had no 1" CPVC couplings on the truck, but they were flush with 90's.

Ghostmaker

Why the did what the did is they have two unmovable pipes they needed to connect the U bend allowed movement. Perhaps the water supplier does not allow a union to be buried. Enlarging your water feed will get you more volume not more pressure. But volume is what you want.

plummen

They started doing that around here on interior waterlines every 10' between joists when using cpvc.
The city says its to keep cpvc joints from getting torn apart by water hammer, maybe thats their idea also out in the yard?

__________________
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Posting from a concrete bunker under a non descript barn

Ghostmaker

It's an expansion loop your CPVC installation guidelines requires one be installed. Cpvc will expand and contract 4 inches per 100 foot. Much more noticeable on the hot feeds. You actually need to rethink how one runs CPVC and abandon the old style run it like copper and butting it into joist. CPVC should always be allowed room to move.

NABRIL

I will ask why they did that U, but I think Ishmael is right - they had a bunch of elbows.

Ghostmaker - will I be using cvpc? I don't know the difference, and I am planning on using regular pvc, unless I'm educated otherwise.
My main worry is how I will tie in to my county line. I cant follow that U back towards my meter because the U goes into a root. So I plan on digging near my meter, and I assume that I will find a 1 inch line. I will then cut it and tie into it with my new run far away from the root. I make have to make a couple of 90 degree bends because of the extended roots. Is that ok?

Ghostmaker- I agree with getting more volume and I will try to go bigger. However, this bigger than 1 inch pipe can only be 30 or 40 feet to meet up with the right side of that U in my pic. The continuation of that U goes under a garden, rocks, into the house, and I prefer not to dig that up. Will the 30 or 40 feet of bigger pipe make a difference?