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Old 04-22-2015, 02:52 PM   #46
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The shut off valve will need to be moved all the way in to the warm side to eliminate the need for protection. As far as the tape goes there are different types available. I like the type that has a semiconductor medium and self regulates. It only draws power when the temperature gets low enough to activate it. The colder it gets the more it works and the pipe and valve are not actually warm, just kept above freezing. You do not need to plug it in the winter then unplug it in the summer. It is fire and forget.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:55 PM   #47
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So to resummarize my options:

1. Move the valve as far right along that horizontal pipe as possible then put heat tape on the portion that has water in it.

OR

2. Find a way to put an access panel and valve on the other side of the wall, inside the warm living space.
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:39 PM   #48
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That is it. And for the sake of functionality the pipe and valve can be exposed inside rather than concealed. If aesthetics dictate you hide it in the wall then you have to make it accessible.
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #49
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If I decide to put the valve on the warm side of the wall, which is the basement kitchen, I'll probably do something like this:

Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1429738208.731403.jpg

I have another question though:

If I decided to put the valve on the horizontal pipe in the cold-room, couldn't I simply insulate the small bit of pipe that will contain water year round with spray foam, or some on type of insulation?
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:42 PM   #50
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*some other type of insulation
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:07 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify View Post
If I decide to put the valve on the warm side of the wall, which is the basement kitchen, I'll probably do something like this:

Attachment 141505

I have another question though:

If I decided to put the valve on the horizontal pipe in the cold-room, couldn't I simply insulate the small bit of pipe that will contain water year round with spray foam, or some on type of insulation?
That may or may not help depending on how drastic the temperature swings. Like I pointed out earlier my neighbor has a ticking time bomb on the side of his house that hasn't blown in 22 years. You'll have to use your own personal risk/comfort formula to decide how big of a chance you can sleep with. If you have never had a couple feet of water in your basement you may feel braver than someone that has. I was not at all concerned about car batteries for many years until one exploded while I was connecting jumper cables. Now I have a different view.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:43 PM   #52
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Polecat, with fall around the corner, I'm debating putting the heat tape on that pipe. Would I need to remove that expanded foam to properly wrap the tape?
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:35 PM   #53
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Quote:
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Polecat, with fall around the corner, I'm debating putting the heat tape on that pipe. Would I need to remove that expanded foam to properly wrap the tape?
Yes. And the heat tape they make these days can be run in a straight line alone the bottom of the pipe and secured with electrical tape.
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:40 PM   #54
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So I won't be wrapping it like so?:



Which introduces another concern: how will I get adequate covered with that T? Do I just double back with the tape and bring it over to the remaining length of pipe on the T? Or will it not even be necessary to cover the T's length since the heat with transfer...

Last edited by Solidify; 09-01-2015 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:53 PM   #55
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Loose Compression Valve


Removed all the foam and found a grounding wire. Will this pose a problem for the heat tape?:

Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140656.333451.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140676.240060.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140707.825277.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140726.997372.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140743.099643.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140765.207617.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441140785.259032.jpg

Last edited by Solidify; 09-01-2015 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:38 PM   #56
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I'm also unsure why there's a ground wire there since there's another bigger ground wire attached to where my main comes in the building:

Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441147107.716854.jpg
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:27 AM   #57
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Done, best I could do.

Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441207603.217855.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441207612.215387.jpg
Loose Compression Valve-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1441207619.531999.jpg
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:36 PM   #58
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The heat cable really wasn't ideal for my situation since the pipe is stuck to the wall. Definitely a temporary fix. I'm trying to visualize my home to see where else I could have the spigot come from that's heated. Or maybe I'll ask my neighbor how he deals with this, since he has a mirror home.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:34 PM   #59
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The ground wire may be for phone or cable installation. Draining the line is the bullet proof solution. (unless you forget to drain it in winter)
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:57 PM   #60
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I'd never forget. And yes, you're right, rather than relocating the pipe, I should find a way to drain the water in the entire room as my permanent fix. But like we've both gone over, that would require taking apart the door casing and perhaps interior wall.

Well see how this winter goes with this new toy.
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