StevenS

I need to reduce the amount of water flowing into my dishwasher. I came to this conclusion based on these observations:

1. It does not drain completely.
2. When I open the door to add a glass I forgot, the water level is up to the door hinge.
3. Sometimes it stops and shows the light pattern that means "The water level is too high."
4. If I happen to be hand-washing dishes when the dishwasher is operating, I wait to rinse until the dishwasher's intake valve is open. Then I hand rinse with hot water on full until the dishwasher's valve has closed. When I do this, the dishwasher operates properly and drains fully.

The hot water valve under the sink connects to 1/4" copper tube, which connects to a tee. The dishwasher connects to the tee with more 1/4" copper tube. My last resort is to take a pair of pliers and squeeze the copper tube to limit the flow to the dishwasher, but it would be hard to regulate this.

The city, Sunnyvale, CA, has its own water system. There is no pressure regulator outside our house, which is in a subdivision from 1970. The plumbing was replaced with copper long before we moved in, except one section that was still galvanized from the meter to the house. We had that section replaced with 1" copper a few years ago. No, I don't have a pressure meter.

The dishwasher is 25 years old, but it's a well-built European model, an Asko, that still works well. I am hoping to get some more years out of it by fixing this overfill problem.

I tried to Google 1/4" pressure reducing valve, but came up empty. Any ideas?

Nealtw

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Do not use flat bottom gables with scissor trusses.

StevenS

Thanks, but I have already checked the drain hose, and my model doesn't overflow to the base pan. It actually drains quickly, it's just that there's too much water.

Nealtw

Most have a float that limits the water, it would be in the tub,

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Do not use flat bottom gables with scissor trusses.

huesmann

If for some reason, your d/w operates by timer and not float, just turn down the flow rate using the knob on the supply valve?

StevenS

I found the manual, and learned that yes, this dishwasher operates its fill valve by timer, and can be set from 60 to 180 seconds. It was set to 70, so I turned it down to 60, but it still needs less. (It does have a level switch, but that is only a fail-safe, which activates the overfill protection and shuts the machine down.)

I could turn down the supply valve, but that single valve also supplies the kitchen sink, and I don't want to lose the flow rate to the faucet.

I'm going to try my original plan of putting a dent in the copper tubing. I will have to be careful, because I don't want to reduce it too much, so I'll do it in small steps.

Nealtw

Usually there is a separate shut off for the DW. I would install that second valve.

__________________
Do not use flat bottom gables with scissor trusses.

huesmann

So your water pipe comes up from the floor (or out of the wall), into a single valve, then splits after the valve to go to the sink and d/w? How are the hoses connected to the water pipe?

StevenS

See these pictures. The flexible 1/4" copper tubing that goes from the 'T' to the right leads to the dishwasher. The stainless steel braided tubing that goes from the top of the 'T' leads to the sink.

The previous owner of the house rotated the sink 45° counter-clockwise when the family room was added, which explains the 1/2" copper pipe.

It is now clear what my weekend project will be.

huesmann

Interesting...I would have thought that a 1/4" line would be self-limiting as far as water flow!

Could you install a needle valve on the horizontal leg of the T?

Yodaman

Something like this should get you out of trouble
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-4-od-c...ght-stop-valve


Have you checked the whole house water pressure. May be running to high.
For about $10 a simple gauge like this can be threaded on to any hose bib for a quick reading.

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StevenS

Now why didn't I think of that? Thank you very much for that suggestion!

StevenS

Thanks for another great idea! I've been thinking about checking the pressure, but never got around to buying a gauge.

Nealtw

Those gauges come with a hose bib fitting, often outside bibs get full pressure so check pressure at the washing machine hose bib.

__________________
Do not use flat bottom gables with scissor trusses.

StevenS

I was wrong. It's actually a 3/8" line.

I finally bought such a gauge at Home Depot. Today the water pressure was 65 psi. I've been told that this is too high, and someone else who lives in my city told me that he recorded pressure more that 100 psi (briefly) at his house.

I was advised to install a water pressure reducing value. Is there anything I should know about buying one? Can I just get a standard one from Home Depot?