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Old 02-14-2016, 09:06 PM   #1
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How tight should toilet flange be?


Really quick question.

Bathroom remodel. My ABS 3" sewer pipe was cut just below the finished floor. I am installing a toilet flange with a metal ring that goes on the outside of the sewer pipe.

It seems I can only push it on maybe an inch before it gets super tight. Won't go all the way down. Are these tapered?

Do I need to cut the pipe down more or will the glue make it goe down further?

I assume dry fitting will be restrictive, but I'd hate to glue it and find it won't seat flush to the floor!
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:16 PM   #2
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Yes, dry fitting is restrictive and usually goes on about halfway. The glue process actually softens the plastic allowing the fitting to slip on completely.

Be sure the pipe is at or slightly below the needed height- determine this from the indent/hub of the flange. This is called the fitting make up
Also be sure the 90 below is well supported so it doesn't push down as you glue the flange on.
If the flange doesn't glue op good the first try- ABS is usually forgiving enough to pop it back off. But you got to do it quickly!
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Yes, dry fitting is restrictive and usually goes on about halfway. The glue process actually softens the plastic allowing the fitting to slip on completely.

Be sure the pipe is at or slightly below the needed height- determine this from the indent/hub of the flange. This is called the fitting make up
Also be sure the 90 below is well supported so it doesn't push down as you glue the flange on.
If the flange doesn't glue op good the first try- ABS is usually forgiving enough to pop it back off. But you got to do it quickly!
Man that sounds risky!

The indent you're talking about is where the pipe on the flange begins to open up - leading to the metal ring? There's give or take two inches of pipe before it widens. Yes, there's enough pipe to fit this area. The restrictive thing just scares me.

What a nightmare it would be to pull it back off.

I was going to pre-drill my holes in the tile before gluing, but seeing I can't get a tight dry-fit, I can't mark my holes with a pen. Suppose I have to drill ater it's glued on.

I made the area too tight. The sewer is in concrete. Good support. But my tile around it comes to about a 1/2". Going to be really hard getting glue on the outside of the sewer pipe with little room. Is it OK to just put glue on the inside of the flange, then push down?
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:57 AM   #4
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Yes, if necessary you can only glue the flange. But it will make it extremely difficult to slip on 100%. Both surfaces should be glued in order to soften each plastic surface. Your method will not soften the pipe surface.

You might consider exchanging the flange. You may get lucky and find one with slightly better tolerances in the dry fit.

If you can get 1" of the pipe into the hub when glued up- it won't fail. This means you need to shorten the pipe a tad.

I have been in your position before. I glue the hub, push it on and then quickly remove it.
Re-glue and repeat the process until it's on completely. Not a text book method, but sometimes you have to adapt and overcome. Keep some prying tools nearby
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Old 02-15-2016, 02:58 PM   #5
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just take a small paint brush or even a Qtip and get some glue around the pipe 1/2 is plenty of room...
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:33 PM   #6
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Smaller cans of pipe glue have smaller applicators. The brush of the smallest can will probably squeeze in there.

There's also these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-PVC-...-GPM/202274094

I'd glue, though, if possible.
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:43 PM   #7
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Thanks for the advice guys. It went on smoothly with glue on both ends.

Next dilemma. I'm drilling in porcelain tile. Bought a diamond core bit - 1/4". Yet the holes on the flange ring are a TAD too small for the bit to get through.

Do I bore out the holes just enough to get that bit into the hole? I'm afraid if I do that, it will open the hole too much and not leave enough metal for the head of the screw to secure to. Does that make sense?
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:33 PM   #8
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Drill right through the flange hole. You shouldn't have to, but you could always add washers on top
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Old 02-16-2016, 07:51 PM   #9
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So before I drill, I need to know what the alignment is for the bolts.

I will be setting my bolts 12.25" inches from the finished wall, but reference the metal ring, do the bolts attach at the very end (in the slot) or should I position the metal ring so the bolts will be in the middle of the grooved slot?

Hopefully that made sense...
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daugela View Post
So before I drill, I need to know what the alignment is for the bolts.

I will be setting my bolts 12.25" inches from the finished wall, but reference the metal ring, do the bolts attach at the very end (in the slot) or should I position the metal ring so the bolts will be in the middle of the grooved slot?

Hopefully that made sense...
I like them about 1/2" from the closed end of the narrow slot
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