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Old 03-09-2016, 11:54 AM   #1
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How to replace this kind of toilet flange?


See the picture:



This is the flange we're speaking of. If you look at the following picture, you'll see a tiny separation where I *think* the flange and the pipe meet:



Now, I watched on YouTube people replacing flanges. From what I understand, there is an outside fit and an inside fit. With the inside fit, you can saw a slit in the side of the flange, and start (carefully) prying it off. With the outside fit, would we need to cut a hole in the drywall in the basement ceiling and start taking off the flange that way?

How exactly is this kind of flange attached? It doesn't look like the inside fit, but I don't know what the outside fit is supposed to look like. How can we get this replaced, preferably without ripping open the ceiling.
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How to replace this kind of toilet flange?-img_20160309_101900.jpg   How to replace this kind of toilet flange?-img_20160309_101731.jpg  
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:04 PM   #2
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It's an outside or (hub) joint on ABS pipe. To repair you will need to tear the floor up cut below the broken ABS and use an abs coupling and pipe to the top. If it is 4 inch inside diameter pipe you concrete the hole. And install a 3 inch toilet flange that fits nicely into the 4 inch inside pipe. If its 3 inch pipe you will need to install a new 3 inch hub flange and pour in concrete after you install the flange. Above all else make sure you tapcon the flange to the floor after the concrete has cured. I would suggest using water plug a quick dry concrete (it drys in 5 minutes).

P.S. Make sure your new flange has a stainless steel rim to hold the Toilet bolts.
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:08 PM   #3
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Concrete? There is no concrete (hence my comments about not wanting to go underneath into the basement). There is a plywood floor, and a subfloor on top of that. The reason why we want to replace the flange is because it is 1/2" too high from the finished floor. There are signs that the toilet was previously leaking.
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
It's an outside or (hub) joint on ABS pipe. To repair you will need to tear the floor up cut below the broken ABS and use an abs coupling and pipe to the top. If it is 4 inch inside diameter pipe you concrete the hole. And install a 3 inch toilet flange that fits nicely into the 4 inch inside pipe. If its 3 inch pipe you will need to install a new 3 inch hub flange and pour in concrete after you install the flange. Above all else make sure you tapcon the flange to the floor after the concrete has cured. I would suggest using water plug a quick dry concrete (it drys in 5 minutes).

P.S. Make sure your new flange has a stainless steel rim to hold the Toilet bolts.
its a lead bend or copper pipe with brass flange..fyi..

Last edited by WhatRnsdownhill; 03-09-2016 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
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its a lead bend with brass flange..fyi..
There is *no way* it's a lead bend with brass flange. It's ABS piping. All the waste pipes in the house are ABS. It was built in 1986. The flange ring part might be metal of some kind, but lead bend with brass flange requires welding. There is nothing welded there. You're just looking at a whole bunch of gunk and wax because the wax was squished so small (from the flange being too high) that there was practically nothing left to seal it.
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:38 PM   #6
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Here is another pic if that helps:
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrssp View Post
There is *no way* it's a lead bend with brass flange. It's ABS piping. All the waste pipes in the house are ABS. It was built in 1986. The flange ring part might be metal of some kind, but lead bend with brass flange requires welding. There is nothing welded there. You're just looking at a whole bunch of gunk and wax because the wax was squished so small (from the flange being too high) that there was practically nothing left to seal it.
in the pic, that whitish stuff sticking off the side looks like corrosion from here..hard to tell being everything looks very light colored..
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:04 PM   #8
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You don't have to replace the flange if its sitting to low, you can get either a 1/4" or 1/2 extention adapter to fit on top of the existing flange. You can even even go really cheap and just use 2 wax seals, but if it was mine i would do the extention.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:08 PM   #9
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oh wait, i misread that, it's 1/2 too high my bad. A new toilet flange isnt going to solve the problem you have, you might want to consider raising the floor. A flange in always going to be 1/2 off the finish floor.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:12 PM   #10
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You look at your first 2 pictures that looks like concrete. So cut the floor and fix it.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:13 PM   #11
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You look at your first 2 pictures that looks like concrete. So cut the floor and fix it.
Thanks Ghostmaker. However, the whole reason I'm here is to find out HOW.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisathome View Post
oh wait, i misread that, it's 1/2 too high my bad. A new toilet flange isnt going to solve the problem you have, you might want to consider raising the floor. A flange in always going to be 1/2 off the finish floor.
No. It can't be 1/2" off the finished floor. You're supposed to secure it to the subfloor, and put the finished floor around it so it's flush with the flange.

What happened is at some point, someone put the subfloor on top of the plywood, but cut the hole for the subfloor so big that they couldn't secure the flange to it. So then they put a big donut shaped shim under the flange, which then raised up too high. But the toilet was leaking, and so it rotted out the donut shaped shim (thankfully the rest of the floor wasn't too bad), and the flange became wobbly.

So what a friend of mine did was he cleaned it all up, picked out all the broken shim pieces with pliers, and was able to screw the flange down to the plywood floor which then lowered it. It's now no longer too high, and we also used the Danco Perfect Seal to compensate for any height differences.

The 1/2" too high is supposed to work with the Danco Perfect Seal, but with the type of toilet it is, the hole in the bottom of the toilet isn't high enough and the Danco Perfect Seal wouldn't be able to compress enough.

So anyways... it appears to be fixed now... hopefully!!!
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:00 PM   #13
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go into the basement or crawl space ..find 3" abs drain line for your flange cut it off 6" below flange ..remove flange . use a 3" abs cuppling and a new hub closet flange and glue it up... done deal..make sure the bolt slots line up for your commode top be straight..
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben's plumbing View Post
go into the basement or crawl space ..find 3" abs drain line for your flange cut it off 6" below flange ..remove flange . use a 3" abs cuppling and a new hub closet flange and glue it up... done deal..make sure the bolt slots line up for your commode top be straight..
Yeah... that's what we were trying to avoid; because we would have to cut open the drywall in the ceiling. There's a finished bathroom underneath.

But we got it all figured out. Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:49 AM   #15
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http://www.johnbridge.com/images/mik...t%20Flange.jpg
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