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Old 12-24-2015, 05:41 PM   #16
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The pipe is usually wrapped with a Styrofoam collar --then concreted in---dig out the foam and you have plenty of clearance for the flange---

If you do not want to make a trip to the store for a collar, I'll bet you could think of a clever substitute---
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:46 PM   #17
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The pipe is usually wrapped with a Styrofoam collar --then concreted in---dig out the foam and you have plenty of clearance for the flange---

If you do not want to make a trip to the store for a collar, I'll bet you could think of a clever substitute---
Styrofoam collar? Really? Never heard of that or seen one. I suppose they are about 1/2" thick?
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:51 PM   #18
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3/4"---those are seen on almost all new floor rough ins----they sure do make the work easier.
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:49 PM   #19
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3/4"---those are seen on almost all new floor rough ins----they sure do make the work easier.
Who sells these? I searched the box store but couldn't find anything.
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:50 PM   #20
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Also, is the entire pipe wrapped that's in concrete or just an inch or so below grade?
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:13 PM   #21
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The sleeves are about 12" long----for your purpose, wrap the top few inches in corrugated cardboard --wrapped to about 3/4"---it won't be as easy to dig out,but that will give you clearance.

Those collars are easily available at a plumbing supply house---few homeowners would need one--so the Depot and such do not carry them.
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:23 AM   #22
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Why not just glue the new flange in place to finished floor and re-pour the concrete. I would use water plug backfill until you have 2 inches to finished concrete. Make a slurry then dump it in.

Use a female 3 inch flange with a stainless steel ring.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #23
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Why not just glue the new flange in place to finished floor and re-pour the concrete. I would use water plug backfill until you have 2 inches to finished concrete. Make a slurry then dump it in.

Use a female 3 inch flange with a stainless steel ring.
I'm not quite following. Glue flange in now, THEN re-pour?

The finished floor will be tile. If I'm following you, are you suggesting I pour the concrete and then tile AROUND the flange?
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Old 12-25-2015, 12:03 PM   #24
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That's what I do drilling tile is not worth the chance of cracking it. You have usually 1 inch slop around the flange that is covered by the toilet on the sides. Since I did that when I set my floors on a concrete slab over 10 years ago and have never had a leak yet. Besides I wasn't about to break out my concrete for such a minor issue.
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:42 PM   #25
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That's what I do drilling tile is not worth the chance of cracking it. You have usually 1 inch slop around the flange that is covered by the toilet on the sides. Since I did that when I set my floors on a concrete slab over 10 years ago and have never had a leak yet. Besides I wasn't about to break out my concrete for such a minor issue.
That makes sense. It's funny you mention tile breaking because my only toilet job in my upstairs bathroom cracked when I tried to drill the tile. I have to remove it and buy an expensive drill bit to re-do the job. Granted, it worked at the end and I had no issues, but I thought it would be easier to attach flange to the sub-floor.
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:22 PM   #26
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Rather than put a space around my pipe for the flange, can I buy a flange that inserts into the sewer pipe?

Only concern I have is my pipe is 3". Can you not isert a flange inside a 3" pipe or does that make it too narrow?

Based on this picture, do you think I have enough room to cut the 3" pipe as short as possible, attach a coupling to increase the pipe to 4" and still have room to install the flange without it being too high? Without a coupling here, I have no clue if the coupling would be too tall.

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Old 12-25-2015, 06:14 PM   #27
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You need an outside flange. Toilet drains must remain 3 inch minimal size. An insert flange makes your toilet illegal and it also may interfere with the ceramic horn on your bowel. So that top of your coupling better be a bit better then 1.5 inches below the floor. In your case it should work. Make sure you get a good flange with stainless steel ring. Then tapcon the ring into the concrete after it has dried for a bit. Then mix up your water plug so its runny and pour it in. It will be solid within 5 minutes. After a day tapcon.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chi...TMPK/202274073

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 12-25-2015 at 06:26 PM.
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