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Old 01-31-2018, 05:58 PM   #1
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House psi at 180! Help!


I adjusted my house pressure at 60 psi, before installing an expansion tank but then I had a leak, so I turned off the main water, and when I was trying to remove a faulty push fitting, I noticed that my expansion tank was still set to 60 psi as well, so I reacted quick to de-pressurizing the expansion tank, after I had already let the air out of the pipes.

Then I disconnected the expansion tank and opened up the T&P valve on my new water heater. Then when I turned the water back on, still with my water heater half full of water and hooked up to my main cold and hot line, but with the cold inlet switch set to off, I noticed my pressure gauge reading at 180 psi!!!

I tried reducing the PRV some, but my psi only went up a little on the pressure gauge.

How do I safely relieve my house psi again? Should I flip the T&P valve again or should I just turn my main water off again, then open up the T&P valve?
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:21 PM   #2
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Actually, I had adjusted my house pressure to 60 psi after I already had my expansion tank installed and hooked up to the water heater's cold inlet, but I didn't adjust the expansion tank's psi to match the house psi until I turned off the main water switch to the house and let the air out of the pipes by opening a kitchen foucet.

Right now, I have my main water line on to the house, but I have my cold inlet switch turned off to the water heater. The water heater has never been turned on yet via electrical breaker, but I had previously filled up my water heater half full of water to check for any leaks.

I had two leaks, one side of my push fitting cold inlet valve was dripping, and one of my compression fittings on top of my pipe going into the cold nipple of the water heater that the cold inlet goes to, as well as off to the side going into the expansion tank. And these leaks were noticed while I still had my expansion tank pressurized to 60 psi, which is what I had the house psi set to prior to pressurizing the expansion tank.

Now I have a steady reading on my pressure gauge tester on my outside water hose line at 180 psi!! And I opened one of the kitchen focets to see if my pressure gauge tester was reading correctly and it was, my psi dropped down to around 130 while I had both the hose line on, connected to the pressure gauge tester, and my kitchen focet running. Then cwhen I closed my kitchen focet, my pressure gauge reading jumped back up to 180 psi! Please help! What should I do to avoid having damage to my pipes!?

Since I turned my main water switch back on, my downstairs toilet has been leaking a little bit. And this was after my second time yesterday, having to turn my main water switch off and then back on again to the house supplied water, to replace a faulty inlet cold valve push fitting. Of course, I did open up a few foucets downstairs before turning my main water back on both times, to help releive my pressure in my pipes.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:25 PM   #3
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Did you call the water company? There is no way that the service line should have that much pressure. Is there a water tower or a pump station near you?
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:37 PM   #4
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


It's currently after business hours, so their probably closed. Should I just go ahead and turn my main water back off? I'm getting a psi reading of 180, but my water is coming out kinda weak after reducing the PRV.
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:40 PM   #5
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


If the PRV broke or is faulty, but the extra pressure being sent to my house was still trapped by a city check valve or backflow perventer, would that also help explain a psi reading of 180? In addition to the expansion tank working on 60 psi after I had the water turned off, and then de-pressurized into the pipes before disconnecting the expansion tank?
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:41 PM   #6
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


If you don't need the water over night, then you can shut the valve. I'd be nervous to leave the valve opened while I'm sleeping. There is always one last flush in the toilet.

PS, it's not your job to reduce the pressure. Call the water company ASAP.
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:47 PM   #7
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Close off supply. Open any valve indoors or out to release pressure. Pressure will drop. Is this a well or city water?


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Old 01-31-2018, 08:02 PM   #8
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


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Close off supply. Open any valve indoors or out to release pressure. Pressure will drop. Is this a well or city water?


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City water.

There is a old switch next to my PRV, is that possibly my main home's water shut off? Could I possibly shut it off instead of my main water companies switch near the mailbox?
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:14 PM   #9
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Hopefully these are "valves" and not "switches". Can you post a picture of your set up from the incoming valve to the water heater inlet/outlet? You should probably not be using push fittings at all. We'll see once the pictures are posted.

Is your outside faucet before or after the PRV?
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:56 PM   #10
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


I turned my main water off, and I got a resulting reading of still 120 psi!!!

Even after I opened up all of the cold foucets for a few minutes, I still get a reading of 120 psi! Which means that something is still keeping a 120 psi, before the main water shuts back on. 120 psi, plus 60 psi (which was what I had last time I had the main water on and adjusted the PRV) accounts for my total of 180 psi when I have the main water on.

I haven't tryied the hot knob foucets yet, they could be keeping a 120 psi in the pipes still. Should I open all of my hot foucets next?

The hot line was connected to the water heater, running back from the cold line and to the expansion tank when it was still opperational and set to 60 psi, when I turned off the water supply yesterday.

Right now, while I have the main water switch from the city off to my house, the hot line is still connected to my water heater.

Yes, I have a new push fitting cold inlet valve installed to my main cold water line, going to the water heater. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow when I have some good sunlight again.

There is a blue pipe switch coming into the house, followed by the prv, then going throughout the house, eventually leading to my cold water line and push fitting inlet valve, then going into the water heater.
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:36 AM   #11
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Make sure you calibrate all gauges before taking readings. Use a known pressure source to calibrate them. Sounds like bad gauge readings . Check your neighbors pressures or ask them if they have water pressure problems.
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:45 AM   #12
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Nema, just to clarify the terminology, by switch do you mean a valve? Coldiron has the right idea. Ask the neighbors if you can put your pressure gauge on their hose bib. The idea of some type of cross over just occurred to me.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:25 AM   #13
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


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Make sure you calibrate all gauges before taking readings. Use a known pressure source to calibrate them. Sounds like bad gauge readings . Check your neighbors pressures or ask them if they have water pressure problems.
I think it might be a faulty gauge reading too, because you wouldn't get a steady, never changing reading after turning the water off and letting the air out of 120 psi! I mean, I don't think that the pressure alone coming from the city main while the water is shut off would be that high. Even with a faulty PRV.

I got a new pressure gauge today at Home Deport, about to test it when I turn the water back on, if the new gauge still reads 180 psi, then I'll need to probably replace my PRV, which has got to be over 15 years old!

I'll use my outside hose spicket to read my house pressure, it's really close to the home's main water shut off and my PRV. It should produce a accurate reading.

Since my water heater is still hooked up to the cold and hot lines on my copper pipping, I'm making sure to double check on letting out all of my house's pressure in the pipes, I have three of my four hot knobs open and one or two cold one's. Giving them a few minutes. Then I'll turn the water back on and hook up my new pressure gauge reader and see what I got.

I don't think that I'd be having crossover pressure, but if my new gauge reads 180 psi again, then I'll suspect that it may be a bad PRV or some type of other issue, like what you suggested.

I'm not sure on the terminogly either for valves vs switches. You'd have to post a picture example. But I think my push fitting cold inlet I installed yesterday is a switch actually, a orange flat lever that you turn one way to open up the cold line, and the other way to close the line.
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Old 02-01-2018, 03:07 PM   #14
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


I think you are describing a ball valve.

https://www.engineeringcircle.com/wp...Ball-Valve.png
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Old 02-01-2018, 03:51 PM   #15
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Re: House psi at 180! Help!


Yeah, that's what I have as my cold line inlet next to the water heater.

So my old pressure gauge tester was faulty afterall! No wonder it got stuck on 120 psi!

Well my new pressure gauge tester worked good, after I turned my water back on, (and let the air out good on all of my cold lines) it read 60 psi at first, but I wanted it a little lower so I adjusted the PRV and eventually the reader showed a decrease in pressure...however, the gauge didn't update quick enough, as I kept slowly decreasing the pressure..suddenly the gauge dropped all the way down to 20 psi!!!

Holy crap!

I quickly ran under my crawspace to increase the pressure back up some, and I heard a sound of steam running, but then it went away when I had the house pressure back up to a safe level at 48 or 50 psi. Whew!

At least I know now that my PRV is still working good.
But that was a close call!

I have to remember to only very gradually adjust the PRV, and then to always close the nut and turn a foucet back on to get a better, more accurate and updated pressure reading.

I have my house pressure set a little low below 60 to save on water, and if a certain applinace produces a little more pressure, especially my 38 gallon water heater, if we decide to go ahead and use it later, without a expansion tank that there can be some more room for added pressure available.

I know that it's recommended to have your house pressure set around 60 psi for a working water heater, but maybe it wouldn't matter that much to have your psi around 50 instead while using a water heater? I could use some feedback on that. Thanks!
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