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Old 03-19-2015, 04:47 PM   #31
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Turn off the cold water feed and then run a hot faucet upstairs until the water stops.

Measure the pressure in the pressure tank.

Turn the water back on.

A week later, with normal use of hot and cold water in the meantime, repeat this test.

If the pressure in the pressure tank is the same then the spurting air from the faucet did not come from the pressure tank.

Caution (copied from antother forum) Learn how to press the tire gauge on the Schrader valve without causing a long loud hiss which will also cause the gauge to read lower than the pressure really is as well as really lose pressure from the pressure tank. Practice on tires. If you needed to get accurate pressure tank readings over a period of time but accidentally and manually lost air from the tank, you will have to start the experimentation over from the very beginning.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 03-19-2015 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:26 PM   #32
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Just a stupid question, but what is that brass fitting with the black plastic cap on the cold inlet? Never seen that before. Is that a new ball valve shutoff?

No drip/dirt leg on gas.

No support on expansion tank.

Your inspection failed.
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:39 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
Just a stupid question, but what is that brass fitting with the black plastic cap on the cold inlet? Never seen that before. Is that a new ball valve shutoff?
It's a vacuum relief valve. I have one on my water heater too.

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=6820
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:53 PM   #34
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On a top feed tank? WHY? Theres a vacuum break on the cold water dip tube. It's a hole in the upper part of the tube.

Why are Vacuum Relief Valves not used much on top-feed water heaters?
Water heaters that have top connections will use a Dip-Tube that forces cold water to the bottom of the tank. A top-connect water heater is subject to a back-siphon vacuum but this is easily prevented by having a siphon hole located near the top of the dip tube. This hole will only allow water to back-siphon until the vacuum reaches the hole. Once the vacuum reaches the hole, it will draw air through the hole and the tank will not drain down. This “anti-siphon” feature is standard on top-fed water heaters and is typically located just a few inches from the top of the tank.

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 03-19-2015 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:58 PM   #35
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So now i'm wondering if that is malfunctioning?
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:46 PM   #36
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Quote:
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So now i'm wondering if that is malfunctioning?
Thats where I would start. Temperarily remove it and plug the tee.
While you're draining the tank down to do that, test the exp tank- but I doubt it's the tank.....
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:00 AM   #37
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An update...


An update...

First to Oso9544, thank you. You gave me that added comfort into thinking that the anode rod fix might in fact do the trick.

I had the plumber come by and do the swap of the magnesium rod, and after seeing that it really hadn't degraded that much, which Bradford White assured me that it would look that way, I was a little worried that the swap wouldn't work out as planned.

But after having that done Friday morning, the behavior of all faucets has completely returned to normal. No more "k-k-k-k" sounds coming from the pipes, no more sporadic spurting from the faucet, and my wife also noted that the speed to which the hot water can be felt from the second-floor bathroom faucet is much quicker than it had been previously.

I imagine that in the near future I'll get my hands on a spare aluminum rod when the current one degrades in the next three years or so, so that I might not have to wait if the supplier is all out, as they were for a few days leading up to this swap out.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:06 AM   #38
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RE: Vacuum relief valve


While the setup had not had the vacuum relief valve on the prior setup that had a Bradford and White unit that looked virtually the same and lasted close to 10 years, the plumber who installed my most recent unit felt the need to install this valve. When things were not working appropriately, he checked with other plumbers to find what issues a faulty vacuum relief valve could cause, and none of them were associated with my issue, so that was crossed off the list of what could be the cause of my problem the last couple of months.

Again, thanks to everyone for offering their input on what had been a very frustrating issue.

Now I'm onto dealing with reinstalling my upper gutter stretch, damaged from ice damming this past winter. The joys of home ownership...chuckle.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:10 AM   #39
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You're welcome and thanks for the update. Glad everything worked out for you and you have hot water with no clunking sounds now.

That's what makes this forum so interesting and informative. Everybody learns and benefits from each others experiences.
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:12 PM   #40
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So apparently you have bacteria that eats magnesium in your water. Glad you did the change usually it gets real stinky.. Starts smelling like sulfur.
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