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Old 02-26-2015, 04:11 PM   #1
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help with cast iron toilet flange


The attached pictures show the cast iron toilet flange from our 1940s-era powder room after the wax ring was removed and I scrubbed the flange a little with a wire brush. That ugly gunk is melted wax and mineral spirits.

There was a single layer of tongue-and-groove fir subfloor below the flange, in pretty bad shape, and it has been torn out. The flange wasn't bolted to the subfloor.

I want to replace the subfloor with two layers of 3/4 plywood and then tile the floor.

Do I cut a hole in the plywood larger than the perimeter of the flange? Or do I attempt to remove or cut off the flange, and then use one of the Oatey insert flanges with a rubber gasket that fits inside the 4" pipe?

If the recommendation is to remove the flange, I would appreciate advice on how to do that. I'm not sure how many pieces it consists of. Does it fit into a hub? See the side-view.
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help with cast iron toilet flange-toiletflangetopview.jpg   help with cast iron toilet flange-toiletflangetopview2.jpg   help with cast iron toilet flange-toiletflangesideview.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:47 PM   #2
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It looks pretty rusted but if you certain there's nothing wrong with it just cut the plywood to go around the flange .
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:00 PM   #3
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Old steel supply's and cast that's seen better day's.
Here's your chance to do it right and get rid of all of it before it starts leaking.
That old cast is so scaled up it's going to rip off the rubber seal when you try to slip it in.
At a bare minimum I'd cut the cast pipe where it's straight and install new PVC pipe and elbow with a tail piece sticking out above the floor, leaving off the flange until the whole new finished floor goes in. Once in you cut the pipe off even with the finished floor and install the flange.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:15 AM   #4
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I appreciate the responses. I'm really tempted to avoid the hard work here, because this is going to be very difficult and I'm afraid of doing major damage. But I do want to do the job right so the repair is durable.

I am attaching a few new pictures to show you what I've got here, and perhaps to get some more specific advice on where the best place would be to cut the pipe.

The one view shows the branch in the basement with markings on the face of the pipe. The right branch goes up to the powder room. The second view is of the Y that goes up to the powder room, with cast-iron hydronic heating pipes getting in the way. The third shows a smaller vanity-sink waste that connects to the 4" waste pipe.

It might be best to try to cut right below the hub up near the flange?

Do I need to be concerned about the "service weight" of the pipe when choosing the metal-jacketed coupling that connects cast-iron to PVC?
Attached Thumbnails
help with cast iron toilet flange-castironmarkings.jpg   help with cast iron toilet flange-bottomview.jpg   help with cast iron toilet flange-sinkwaste.jpg  

Last edited by diy888; 02-27-2015 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:19 AM   #5
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I suggest that you remove the old drain pipe from the hub---and use a rubber doughnut (hub connector) to transition to 3" PVC---
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:58 AM   #6
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Are you suggesting that I remove it at the location marked on this picture?
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:20 AM   #7
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Looks to me like those old bell ends are jute and lead.I've found it best to cut where there is a staright section and add a hub to pvc.You really don't have a lot to work with there and you may be opening a can of worms.
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mako1 View Post
Looks to me like those old bell ends are jute and lead.I've found it best to cut where there is a staright section and add a hub to pvc.You really don't have a lot to work with there and you may be opening a can of worms.
Yeah, to me it seems I have nothing to work with. There is no straight section to cut.

It's definitely lead seal. If I scrape the flange surface a little, there's a shiny metal beneath the discoloration.
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Old 02-27-2015, 02:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diy888 View Post
Are you suggesting that I remove it at the location marked on this picture?

I don't know what Mike meant. I would do the one above this one. Two reasons, easier to make it up and a second chance should Mr. Murphy visit.

The lead isn't all that hard to get out if you drill straight down all the way around the pipe. It is usually only 1/2-3/4". The darned jute frustrates me more. Clean it all out. use a wire brush in a cordless drill and then use a doughnut rubber connector. Liquid soap helps the pipe go in.
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Old 02-27-2015, 02:29 PM   #10
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You have a lead pipe leading to the lav. If that is disturbed (damaged) you will have a whole different problem to deal with.
Ideally, every bit of the cast and lead should be replaced but I understand not wanting to go there.
The approach I would take is to only remove the flange. It can be replaced with a new flange that slides inside the pipe or a compression type, outside the pipe
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:59 PM   #11
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I agree with e plumber...but that piping inside is pretty bad so it may be tough getting any thing to seal around that not so much for leaking water but sewer gas..but it may be worth a try ....but idealy it should all be replaced...
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