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Old 03-14-2016, 02:20 PM   #31
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


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Originally Posted by ride525 View Post
Senior Sitizen, could you explain more about how the "tubing flare tool clamp" could be used, what it is, and how it could be used in this instance. I'm just not familar with it.

Thanks,
If I can find it now I'll take another pic that may explain it better. Hold tight. One moment please, maybe just a little longer.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:58 PM   #32
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


AW NICE, edit time sucks.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:00 PM   #33
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


@SeniorSitizen - yeah that's a good idea. Use it in place of , or in addition to the vise grips. You'd likely crunch the splines a little bit at that point - but no big deal


Some places (Autozone in my area) loan out tools like this (with deposit). Harbor freight has them <$20.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:08 PM   #34
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by ride525 View Post
Senior Sitizen, could you explain more about how the "tubing flare tool clamp" could be used, what it is, and how it could be used in this instance. I'm just not familar with it.

Thanks,
The tubing flare clamp replaces the vise grips and holds very well by design with its serrated jaws. Use opening size appropriate for the stem. The numbers on the clamp won't mean anything in this application.

Refer to reply #18 on 3-18-11 about using a pipe nipple and pipe caps. I would probably use a short pipe nipple and a pipe bushing to avoid drilling holes in pipe caps. Size the nipple so the stem / cartrage will pass through. But once the cartrage bumps the nipple it can probably be pulled with the fingers.
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Last edited by SeniorSitizen; 03-14-2016 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:16 PM   #35
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


Put the vise grips back in the tool box and forget you own any. They have screwed up more nuts, bolts and shafts than I care to remember.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:03 PM   #36
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


The tubing flare clamp worked! Well, partially.

I say partially, because I used 1/2 pipe and bushing and couldn't get the diverter stem out all the way, as the small pipe stopped it from coming out past the body opening. So, it's partially out.

Going to try larger diameter pipe, or some sort of spacer so the diverter stem can slide through those, and make it all the way out...

Upwards and onwards.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:07 PM   #37
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


Size the nipple so the stem / cartrage will pass through.
********************************************
The clamp did its part. The other engineering failed.

Thanks for the progress report.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:00 PM   #38
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


Well, I purchased a 3/4" nipple and end cap. They worked great, however, it took several times at slowing pulling the diverter stem out, as it had o-rings in three separate places. So I had to turn the brass end cap four turns to pull out the diverter just a little bit at a time.

I bought them in brass, even though brass cost $14, instead of steel at about $4. Bought brass because:
1. the internal diameter of the brass was a bit more than the steel, which I felt was important to allow the stem to start slipping into the nipple.
2. the end cap threaded on further, about 4 turns instead of 2 turns with the steel.
3. the brass end cap was less thick at the end, I was concerned about taking up room for the whole pulling setup.
4. I figured brass would be easier to drill through for the fluted stem hole.

However, it looks like I will have to purchase new diverter. My old one is very hard to turn, and when you do turn the fluted stem, using vise grips, I can't see that is does anything internally to divert the flow from hole to hole.

Thanks to all for your help, especially the use of part of the tubing flute tool!

Last edited by ride525; 03-15-2016 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:11 AM   #39
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


ride525 - fyi pictured is what the flaring tool is actually used for. The intended use of the clamp you used holds the tubing so the end of the tubing can be flared to match the mating fitting.

If anyone ever tells you they have never failed to put the nut on the tubing before flaring, they are lying or never flared tubing.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:15 AM   #40
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


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ride525 - fyi pictured is what the flaring tool is actually used for. The intended use of the clamp you used holds the tubing so the end of the tubing can be flared to match the mating fitting.

If anyone ever tells you they have never failed to put the nut on the tubing before flaring, they are lying or never flared tubing.
Not sure I will ever use the tool for flaring, but it sure worked great as a vise!
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:49 AM   #41
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


Well, got the diverter in the mail, in came shipped two day USPS from LockePlumbing.
Here is a piture: http://lockeplumbing.com/detail.asp?...36&r1=&r2=&r3=
Also you can look at picture #1 in hauch's album.

What surprised me is there is nothing turning internally here, it's one solid piece, where the three o-rings turn along with the whole diverter all insider the outside body.

I had a hard time getting it in, only forced it in part way. (and it would hardly turn at all, even thought just part way in. Then reviewed hauch's pictures and their wonderful descriptions. So, I will try to clean and buff the inside of the body, hopefully smoothing things out so the new diverter can be inserted more easily into the body.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:33 AM   #42
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


It would have been nice of the manufacturer to send along a sample packet of the lubricating grease they recommend. If they didn't there is usually a wide selection of plumber's grease brands containing silicone available to purchase locally.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:42 AM   #43
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Re: Harden faucet stem removal


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It would have been nice of the manufacturer to send along a sample packet of the lubricating grease they recommend. If they didn't there is usually a wide selection of plumber's grease brands containing silicone available to purchase locally.
I was ready with the silicone grease. I had already purchased a small tube of Danco 88963 Silicone Grease from Amazon.

It was still really tight, way too tight to work correctly, even though the diverter was only partially pushed in. Hauch (in picture #1 of his album) talked of cleaning and buffing the body with a Dremel flex shaft and a soft ciricular brush.

I actually took the o-rings off of the old diverter, and shoved it in. It was hard to shove in at first, even without the o-rings, but something cleaned up, and it moves easier now. And it seems to work pretty well, even without the o-rings.

I just think it's a crazy design, when the whole diverter stem turns, including the three o-rings! (For the hot and cold water stems, the three o-rings just seal, and are stationary along with some of the hot and cold stems, and the ceramic disks turn.)

Maybe hauch will comment, just to confirm that in the design for the diverter, that the whole thing turns, including the three o-rings against the diverter body.

Last edited by ride525; 03-20-2016 at 09:47 AM.
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