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Old 12-03-2015, 09:36 AM   #1
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Grundfos MQ3-35C 96861072 Replacement


Our Grundfos MQ3-35C booster pump failed, and I ordered the same exact model thinking that a direct replacement would be pretty straightforward.

After receiving the new pump and looking at the connections, it looks more complicated than loosening and reconnecting threaded union connections at the inlet and outlet. A picture of the pump is attached.

The inlet plastic connector is threaded onto the pump on one side and threaded onto the copper pipe on the other. Looks to me like the connection must be made by threading the copper to the plastic, plastic to the pump, and then soldering the copper to copper.

The outlet connector has a union that is threaded onto the copper pipe on one side and fits into a union connection on the top of the pump.

What is the correct procedure for disconnecting the old pump and connecting the new one?

Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:16 AM   #2
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Be ready to clean up some water.
Make sure that the water to and from is closed off and the pump in un pluged.
The plastic ring on top and in the front can be un screwed off the old pump and then attached to the new pump.
Once the new pump is in place and the to and from pipes are re attached make sure to prime the pump by putting water in the top plug to over flowing and then you can plug the pump in and open the to and from pipes and turn on the pump.
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:06 PM   #3
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Culligan contol valve


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Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
Be ready to clean up some water.
....
Hello! I apologize for butting in here but I am not able to PM you. You seem very helpful around here so I wanted to know if you could direct me to a diagram and/or instructions on opening up the control valve of my Culligan Gold Series (which is similar to other models).

It doesn't stop draining and I've already determined that it's not the seal pack (so I've already taken the front part off & replaced it) so I want to check to see if debris is making the control valve get stuck.

Merry Christmas

Ben
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:18 PM   #4
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How have you determined that it is not?

If the culligan is running water to the drain then most likely the seal pack assembly is at fault.

Could be that the piston has a score or an o ring has a tare..

What kind of drawing are you looking for?
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:30 PM   #5
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I thought it was the seal pack so i put in a new one. There was no drainage after turning the water back on, so I thought I had fixed it. Then I looked at the old sealpack, and it seemed fine. Oh well I thought maybe there was something in there I couldn't see. So then I started a regeneration and it happened again. The draining did not stop till I bypassed it. So I'm thinking something is getting stuck during the cycle that is supposed to stop the draining.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:32 PM   #6
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I found a document listing three most likely causes. 1) the control board 2) seal pack 3) the control valve so now I'm trying to get to the control valve.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:40 PM   #7
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The timer board or assembly is to step it from one part of the cycle to the next or to start a regen.
The valve body is where the seal pack is at.
Now the drive motor for the piston could be out of alignment and not stopping where it should be when in service.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:51 PM   #8
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I'm guessing that's in the main housing. Getting to the sealpack seems easier lol
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:59 PM   #9
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Is this for a softener or another set up?
There are only 2 parts to this set up, the valve body with the main piston seal pack and brine piston and its cage and the power side ie the drive motor to the left and the timer assembly to the right be it digital or older type.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:04 PM   #10
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Culligan Gold Series Softener. Seal pack and brine piston was accessible by taking off the front control compartment which also housed a motor. Isn't there a control valve in there? Or are you saying the only thing controling drainout is the seal pack?
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:26 PM   #11
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The light dawns in yonder window.
Some say that the control valve all of what is there... valve body , power head.. all together make up the control head.
Did you get the pm?
After a cycle how fast is water going to the drain?
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:53 PM   #12
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Can't PM until 15 posts, but I did receive it.

It drains as fast as it normally would. Already unhooked that hose to the drain as well as the top of the inductor and all looks clear but cant really see into the interior of the housing without taking out more plug/piston/filter things from those areas.

So the problem may be in the electronic cycle control.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:56 PM   #13
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What i mean is maybe there's a problem where it's not moving the seal pack back in. I'll run it again and watch it but it takes a while so maybe i can program it to run a short regen cycle since i dont have time to watch it for 90 minutes hehe
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:02 PM   #14
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It could be possible that when you put the new seal pack back in that one of the outer o rings slipped out of place.
When you took the front part off the valve , what all did you remove from the unit?
or how far did you go with the break down of the front and valve?

Last edited by Akpsdvan; 12-16-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:36 PM   #15
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I replaced the seal pack & brine piston assembly. After I put the new stuff in, I disengaged the bypass and turned the water back on. It did not drain anymore. Only when I did a regeneration did the malfunction come back
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