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Old 08-16-2015, 11:20 AM   #16
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I can confirm that my other tenant's tank is indeed receiving the 240v it's supposed to be receiving, just for a point of reference:

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Old 08-16-2015, 11:28 AM   #17
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Tested the disconnect. The incoming wires (those coming from the tenant's panel) read 240v. The lines going to the heater after the fuses read 38v.

I'm going to turn the breaker in her apartment off, come to disconnect, make sure power is off, remove both fuses, replace both fuses, turn on breaker in her apartment, then check voltages again.

I have a feeling it's that.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:29 AM   #18
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Test for 240 on the black/white pair and then again on the red/black pair. If you do not have 240 on both sides, you have a blown plug fuse.

Fusing is wrong, I assume you have a 30 amp circuit feeding this disconnect. The one with the orange color is 20 amps, the green is 30 amps. Both should be green for a 30 amp circuit.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Test for 240 on the black/white pair and then again on the red/black pair. If you do not have 240 on both sides, you have a blown plug fuse.

Fusing is wrong, I assume you have a 30 amp circuit feeding this disconnect. The one with the orange color is 20 amps, the green is 30 amps. Both should be green for a 30 amp circuit.

I replaced both fuses with two new 30amp fuses. I have 240v on both sides now. I now hear The heater working and it now also reads 240v on the top two terminal screws on the heater. I told my tenant her hot water should be back in 30 minutes to an hour.

One thing I don't understand is why the fuses that were in the disconnect were different? This is the tenant's panel. The water heater breaker is the one in the bottom right corner that is labelled "EAU CHAUDE," which is French for "hot water."

Electric Water Heater-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1439744588.535233.jpg

Did I put/buy the right fuses?
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:14 PM   #20
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The breaker handles look to me like it says 20 (as in 20 amps). Most WHs are 30 amp and use #10 wiring. But if your cable is #12, the 20 amp breaker is correct.

Actually that fused disconnect is not required. A disconnect is required but it usually it unfused. I would leave the new 30 amp fuses and not worry, the wiring is protected by the circuit breaker.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:19 PM   #21
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Actually that fused disconnect is not required. A disconnect is required but it usually it unfused. I would leave the new 30 amp fuses and not worry, the wiring is protected by the circuit breaker.

I was under the impression that code requires a disconnect for the WH based on the distance and location of the electrical panel in relation to the heater, regardless if whether the disconnect is fused or has a breaker. Either way, it's been our setup for years and I wasn't the one that installed it.

Thank you for very much for your help though, as well as to everyone else that replied to this thread with suggestions for troubleshooting. This forum truly is a lifesaver.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify;2374249[B
]I was under the impression that code requires a disconnect for the WH[/B] based on the distance and location of the electrical panel in relation to the heater, regardless if whether the disconnect is fused or has a breaker. Either way, it's been our setup for years and I wasn't the one that installed it.

Thank you for very much for your help though, as well as to everyone else that replied to this thread with suggestions for troubleshooting. This forum truly is a lifesaver.
What I said was a fused disconnect is not required. A disconnect is required. I had forgotten you are in Canada and I am not sure if the CEC is the same.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:27 PM   #23
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Sorry, I misread that. Not sure about that, your guess is as good as mine.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:09 PM   #24
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Rj,

My tenant just rang to advise me that her water heater stopped working again. I went straight to my disconnect switch and while I was trying to pry the cover off the box to gain access to the fuses, I saw some sparks inside the disconnect box. When I finally managed to get the cover off, I saw the black wire on the left was lighting up every couple of seconds, as if lighthning was going through it.

So I immediately turned off the switch and then I saw another spark while doing so. The box was making a buzzing sound when the switch was on.

My meter says there's 240v going to the box but I'm hesitant to get close enough to read the voltages on the other side of the fuses with the power on, since it's sparking when on.

My hunch is I put the wrong fuses. How can I figure this out?
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:15 PM   #25
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Sparking and arcing is caused by a loose connection. Turn power off to the disconnect and check connections. Wrong fuses will not cause what you describe.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:16 PM   #26
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I haven't read the entire thread but try this:

push the red button on the water heater

well ignore that. WHen I posted that i got to read the last couple of posts:

hire an electrician before you hurt somebody.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:18 PM   #27
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When you say "turn power off to the disconnect," do you mean:

Turn the breaker off before the disconnect, or just turn the switch in the disconnect box to the off position.

And I tried the reset switch a while back, did 't fix the issue.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:21 PM   #28
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Turn of breaker at panel.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:23 PM   #29
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Ok. And while you're here, is there some advice you can give me about screwing in the fuses properly? I know there are time delay and plug fuses and don't recall which one I purchased to fix this issue previously or what the difference is/which I need?
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:30 PM   #30
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a screw in fuse is a screw in fuse./ A time delay screw in fuse means the internal workings are made so it does not blow immediately on a low level overload such as what a motor would cause. A water heater does not need slow blow fuses but it isn't the end of the world if you put them in the fuse box. It is the ampacity rating that is most important here.
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