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Old 08-08-2016, 09:46 AM   #1
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Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


I posted some of this in the flooring section...as this started out as a simple tiling project in my parents' 1950's house. As with most old homes I keep running into issues...bathroom fan had no ducting and was open and buried in insulation...kitchen range fan...same thing...old ungrounded wiring that was wired up with 3 prong outlets...no gfci...yadda yadda yadda...and now...this toilet drain and surround.

Here's the problem. The area immediately around the toilet was fubar'd. It looked like a mixture of self leveler and mastic/gypsum adhesive...and a section of 2x4 sunk into the slab. All surrounding a cast iron drain pipe and flange. The flange itself appears to be solid and intact...and I have broken away all of the loose material surrounding the pipe and I now need to fill it. I need to know which type of concrete would be best for this application, i.e. high strength, fast set, something fancy I don't even know about? Time is a bit of an issue. Also, do I need to wrap the cast iron pipe before hand? Or can I pour directly up against the pipe and under the flange?

I took a level to the floor and everything surrounding the messed up section is level, so I am hoping that I can pour the concrete into the void and then screed it level using the perimeter as a guide. From there I can use self-leveler, although I would think that the thin-set would be adequate to account for any slight deviations.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated





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Old 08-08-2016, 10:53 AM   #2
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Re: Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


You don't need any special concrete, plain old 3000 PSI is all you need unless your in a hurry, then go to a high early mix for faster set.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:03 AM   #3
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Re: Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Canarywood1 View Post
You don't need any special concrete, plain old 3000 PSI is all you need unless your in a hurry, then go to a high early mix for faster set.
Thanks, I want to tile on Wed..would regular concrete be good to go by then for tile? I felt like 72 hrs was a minimum guideline...but perhaps not for tiling.

Also, I am OK to concrete right up against the pipe? I have it in my head that there needed to be a barrier...but perhaps that was for people that still needed room to install a flange.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:13 PM   #4
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Re: Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


I can't speak on the concrete, but pour up to the pipe- no protection needed
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:36 AM   #5
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Re: Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


OK...here are the pics. I wasn't able to get over there until late last night. I started by grinding the flange smooth and flattening the jagged edges of the pipe that were protruding from it. It looked surprisingly good and solid. I then broke out the concrete? that was surrounding the pipe all the way around and cleaned and prepped the area. I poured in regular high strength concrete, worked it down around the pipe and into the voids...poking it throughout to release any air. I then screeded, floated, and troweled it smooth, filling in the hole and the 2x4 void. The edges that look like spill/splatter is actually where the new concrete is filling in little broken sections.

The only issue is that I misjudged how high the flange was sitting, and it will wind up sitting below the tile. So...extra thick wax ring, rubber ring, pvc flange inside existing flange? Thoughts on a solution?

Also...I feel that I was able to get the floor surprisingly level and smooth...so much so that I may not "need" self-leveler. What thickness is acceptable for thin-set to be used to account for variance?







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Old 08-10-2016, 10:11 AM   #6
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Re: Concrete pour around cast iron toilet drain...HELP!


That flange doesn't allow for adjustment. Is it parallel to the wall? The toilet bolt hole is big enough for small adjustment. Is there enough space under the flange for the bolt head to slide under? Using layers of wax ring works, but adding extra flange with wax as seal in between would help somewhat. Make sure your bolts are long enough and not using too much wax.
I use 3/8-1/2 square trowel for floors. It can squeeze down to 1/8" and seem to work. Use rubber float to "pat" the tiles down and make sure leveled tile will be below/even with door threshold.
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