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Old 06-30-2017, 06:39 AM   #1
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Cast iron toilet flange installation


How far down the riser should the bottom piece of the flange go? Phrased another way : how much purchase does the bottom flange piece need.

Also I raised my subfloor. Can I buy an extension kit and longer bolts to work with my existing flange? Or is a new flange in order? I know they make 4x3 and 4x4

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Old 06-30-2017, 08:21 AM   #2
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


You may want to consider using a plastic flange, often made of ABS. Installs using stainless steel bolts that tighten the flange around the pipe. I had to remove a cast iron flange that cracked a couple of years ago, not a job I would like to do on a regular basis. I installed an ABS flange, very easy, adjustable height to match the floor. The instructions mentioned how much purchase was necessary, I don't recall the exact amount, I think it was around three inches. I believe there are different height flanges for different applications.
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:34 AM   #3
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Cast iron toilet flange installation


Thanks Dan. Code requires I use cast iron.


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Old 06-30-2017, 09:52 AM   #4
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


What flooring are you using?

What area requires a cast iron toilet flange? I don't mean cast iron pipes, but a cast iron flange? Brass is not allowed?
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:56 AM   #5
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


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Originally Posted by clarenceboddick View Post
What flooring are you using?

What area requires a cast iron toilet flange? I don't mean cast iron pipes, but a cast iron flange? Brass is not allowed?


New York City. Actually I'm assuming I need cast iron. Don't actually know. Def need cast iron pipes here.






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Old 06-30-2017, 09:58 AM   #6
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


I've seen videos of guys breaking up the rusted or cast iron toilet flanges with a cold chisel. I'm sure it's harder than it looks.

I think I'll chuck the old one and buy a new 4" one. That will give me enough purchase on the riser and be flush with the finished floor as per kohlers recommendation.




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Old 06-30-2017, 10:07 AM   #7
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


Why don't you find out what's code for the flange? Trust me, you don't want to replace a flange or even put a repair ring on if you don't have to.

I've heard that cast iron drain pipe is required for commercial and I believe in multi story over a certain height. Commercial for fire due to toxic smoke if ABS/PVC is used. Multi story due to strength.
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Old 06-30-2017, 10:09 AM   #8
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


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Originally Posted by clarenceboddick View Post
What flooring are you using?

What area requires a cast iron toilet flange? I don't mean cast iron pipes, but a cast iron flange? Brass is not allowed?


Plywood, advantech, 1/4" cement board, tile.

Read the code, they make reference to plastic, brass and cast-iron flange thickness requirements.

So I'm not exactly sure what is required.

Building is greater than 3 stories so I know that PVC and Pex are not allowed for pipes, but not sure about flanges.





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Old 06-30-2017, 10:23 AM   #9
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


Go a bit higher than usual for tile so you don't have to use an extra tall wax ring and too much grout under the base flange.

You might want to call some local plumbing supply houses and ask what the big plumbing companies use for flanges.
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Old 06-30-2017, 11:27 AM   #10
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


This would be my approach--

Remove the existing work back to that horizontal no-hub band, or first accessible band. Or snap the existing vert. pipe
Then repipe with new 1/4 bend, pipe and flange. This flange works great-- https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42255-C.../dp/B001REGQXI
This method eliminates lead and oakum joints.

Once you have the proposed flange you can calculate the pipe height above floor. After you install the floor, you can slip on the flange and compress it to the pipe.
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Old 06-30-2017, 01:17 PM   #11
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Re: Cast iron toilet flange installation


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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
This would be my approach--



Remove the existing work back to that horizontal no-hub band, or first accessible band. Or snap the existing vert. pipe

Then repipe with new 1/4 bend, pipe and flange. This flange works great-- https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42255-C.../dp/B001REGQXI

This method eliminates lead and oakum joints.



Once you have the proposed flange you can calculate the pipe height above floor. After you install the floor, you can slip on the flange and compress it to the pipe.


It's all no hub cast iron.. Hence no lead-oakum joints.


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