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Old 07-13-2016, 03:04 PM   #1
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Bathroom Exhaust Fan Recommendation


I'm looking for bathroom exhaust fan recommendations. The fa will go into a 5x12 first floor bathroom. There is no existing fan and I don't have access from above as the joist bay is between floors. If all goes well, I plan to run the exhaust pipe straight out along the joist bay about 17' and out through the rim joist (or is that band joist since it is between floors?).

An 80 cfm fan should be sufficient, we don't need lighting or heat, just looking for a nice quiet one that is easy to install without access from above.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:36 AM   #2
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Re: Bathroom Exhaust Fan Recommendation


Found the Broan XB80, very quiet and looks to be easy to install with no attic access.

The next question is the duct. I can go straight out the side of the house, but it will be a run of 14 feet between over a bedroom. I won't have a way to strap and suspend the duct. I might be able to slide some blocking under the duct fire it to rest on, but not too far in.

If I used thin walled pvc, say 13 feet long, will it sag? I'll glue the extension in and should be able to support it there.

Or would rigid metal I sections be better? Sheetmetal screws and foil at the joints, but with multiple joints, figure that may sag even worse.

Suggestions?
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:47 PM   #3
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Re: Bathroom Exhaust Fan Recommendation


First locate ceiling joists. Open 3" hole in the middle and rent inspection camera to see if the whole of joist bay is open. If you see blocking, crossed joists straps, plumbing, electric, etc, you may have to open the bedroom ceiling at some locations. If insulation, open most of the ceiling to be able to reinsulate. Use can foam/foam block against the rim for max insulation, draft stop.
Bath ducts get condensation and you want the duct to slope down for draining. Or run the fan at least extra 15-20 min (?) to dry out the duct. Galvanized metal duct is about the only choice and lay it on the sheetrock to stay relatively flat. Sloping is only if you had the open framing and adjust the supports.
When running the electric, take the power and neutral to the switch box for the timer (always need a ground). There is electronic timer that does not need a neutral but it costs more.
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