Basement Bathroom--use Shower Vent For Toilet - Plumbing - DIY Home Improvement | DIYChatroom
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Normally they want it sized based on the fixtures being served.... it may be 3" to the shower wye, but I really doubt that they want a 3" drain/vent on the lav. Probably 2" from the shower through the roof
So 2" from lav to the Wye that would pick up the toilet and shower. Then 3" from that point?

Like the drawing on the right.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:28 PM   #17
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Hey Ghost....I saw an episode of Ask This Old House. When they plumbed in the basement bath, the shower and toilet were both wet vented off the lav. See photo below.

Would this allowed in Ohio? See diagram below. In this diagram, the entire bath is on its own 3" like you mentioned in one of your previous posts. Also in the diagram, the lav is shown venting the shower and toilet.

Thanks
Yep that is also good. just run 2 inch all the way to the shower then you can run 2 inch to the lav and vent the lav with 2 inch.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:29 PM   #18
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Any of the above is legal as long as shower trap is within 8 foot of pipe running to lav.

I prefer the left one. You don't need that little bit of 3 inch.

Don.t forget the tee on the 3 inch for testing with 5 lb air. You will need a way to block your new pipe off for a test ball.

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 02-06-2014 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:47 PM   #19
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Any of the above is legal as long as shower trap is within 8 foot of pipe running to lav.

I prefer the left one. You don't need that little bit of 3 inch.

Don.t forget the tee on the 3 inch for testing with 5 lb air. You will need a way to block your new pipe off for a test ball.
Shower trap will be well within 8 feet. Don't know when Im gonna get started on the slab demo but will post photos of the progress.

Thanks for the advice and tips.

what county you in?
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:27 PM   #20
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Shower trap will be well within 8 feet. Don't know when Im gonna get started on the slab demo but will post photos of the progress.

Thanks for the advice and tips.

what county you in?

Up in Medina.. Plumbers call us the inspectors the State of Medina.... We are strict about code.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:27 PM   #21
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Up in Medina.
I'm 2 exits north of you on 71
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:55 PM   #22
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Ghost... a buddy suggested placing the lav like I show it below in the top photo. This means running the drain for the lav thru the newly built wall. This puts the lav drain above grade and keeps concrete breakage to a real minimum as only the toilet and shower would need the cuts. The photo shows only the lav placement, the diagram shows all 3 fixture placements.

If I go this route, at the tie-in for the lav at the existing 4" stack would it be OK to:
1. Remove the existing cleanout tee and replace with a double San-T. One side of the Sant-T is for the lav and the other side would be the cleanout.

2. Place cleanout T slightly higher on stack and use a single San-T below cleanout to pick up lav drain?


What are your thoughts on this setup.

Thanks
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Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-100_7199.jpg   Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-kens-drawing.jpg  

Last edited by hammerlane; 02-24-2014 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:59 AM   #23
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You could probably do the whole thing without breaking up the slab if you use a rear outlet toilet like the Kohler "Barrington". You may have to chip out around the 4" stack to sink the 4"x3" Tee Wye to the correct height. The shower could also be done if you had it up on a 2"x8" framed platform (lower if you don't mind chipping out the slab to allow clearance for the trap), but you'd have to locate if away from the ducts for ceiling height issues.

And come to think of it - if you have the room to spare - you could put the rest of the bathroom on 2"x4" or 2"x6" framing to minimize or eliminate the step up into the shower and also make the installation of the 4"x3" Tee into the stack a little easier - IF your ceiling height will allow it (but I think you're too restricted by the ducts for that).

Ghost would know your local code, but mine says we need 7-foot headroom around any plumbing fixtures (finished floor to finished ceiling).

Any horizontal branch you take off that 4" soil stack will need to be vented back up to the vent you mentioned in your first post, BUT it has to be tied in at a point 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served on that level (first floor).

Last edited by Ishmael; 02-25-2014 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:46 AM   #24
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You could probably do the whole thing without breaking up the slab if you use a rear outlet toilet like the Kohler "Barrington".
We did think about a platform but right now I'm down to only about 9 feet of concrete breakage so thats not bad for the toilet and shower.


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Originally Posted by Ishmael View Post
Any horizontal branch you take off that 4" soil stack will need to be vented back up to the vent you mentioned in your first post, BUT it has to be tied in at a point 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served on that level (first floor).
There are no other fixtures draining into that stack through that 2" above the 4' San-T. That 2" is all vent. I'm 100% positive of that so my tie in to the vent can be in the basement.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:51 AM   #25
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We did think about a platform but right now I'm down to only about 9 feet of concrete breakage so thats not bad for the toilet and shower.




There are no other fixtures draining into that stack through that 2" above the 4' San-T. That 2" is all vent. I'm 100% positive of that so my tie in to the vent can be in the basement.
If that's the case, and the horizontal line serves only those floor drains, you're probably OK to tie the vent in there - as high as you can get it.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:55 AM   #26
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If that's the case, and the horizontal line serves only those floor drains, you're probably OK to tie the vent in there - as high as you can get it.
This house isn't that old and I've always wondered why the builder couldn't spend the few extra dollars for some fittings to at least rough in a basement bathroom. Maybe that vent was his way of saying, "Here...at least I gave you and easy way to vent a basement bathroom"

I dont know. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:50 PM   #27
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You need to tie in 40 inches downstream of your stack 90. What you show will work. But move your tie in downstream.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:59 PM   #28
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You need to tie in 40 inches downstream of your stack 90. What you show will work. But move your tie in downstream.
Ghost...are you are referring to the tie-in of the toilet 3" to the existing 4"? Shown at point "A" in this diagram.

If so, that wye will be close to 6 or 7 feet from the stack so I'll be good.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:45 PM   #29
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I've been away for awhile but am getting ready to knockout this floor to rough-in this basement bath(toilet, lav and shower). I bought the shower base, 34x48 with a center drain. This is how I'm planning the below grade plumbing for the toilet and shower.

-The lav will be plumbed above grade as shown in post #22 above

-The purple line is the location of the existing 4" drain below grade

-The vent shown with the 2" wye that will come up into the 2x6 side wall of the shower will be used to vent the shower and toilet
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Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-img_3492.jpg   Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-img_3494.jpg   Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-img_3496.jpg   Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-img_3500.jpg   Basement bathroom--use shower vent for toilet-overhead.jpg  


Last edited by hammerlane; 10-13-2014 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:43 PM   #30
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Welcome back.

Make sure the pipe is 2 inch to the shower.

Use a 4 by 3 inch 90 on the toilet. 4 inch through the floor. That way you can glue a 3 inch toilet flange into the 4 inch coming out directly after pouring and all finish flooring is installed.

Run 2 inch to the lavatory. Turn up with a 2 inch 90. Use a 2 by 1.5 inch 90 at top the 1.5 inch coming out of wall to the lav sink.

Have fun

Use primer and glue on both pipe and fittings.

If your being inspected make sure you contact your inspector regarding the test he will need.

Use a Proflex brand plastic to plastic transitional coupling when you add your wyes into existing pipe.. Your working between to unmovable pipes..

When you add your tie in to the existing vent do it up in the joist area.

Potentially you could be flagged for a violation if your tie in is not 42 inches above the garage floor.

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 10-14-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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