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Old 06-14-2015, 04:34 PM   #1
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transition and expansion allowance


I have two questions. I'm ripping out old wall to wall that covers the entire house. In one part of the house the carpet covered wood floors, in another, the one I'm working on now, it covered plywood. The plywood is the same height as the wood flooring. I'm keeping the wood flooring, but want to lay 10mm Pergo over the plywood, when the Pergo ends at the wood floor, I'll have that step down. Short of tearing out the plywood and laying new subfloor, would a t molding be ok to use there?

Second, there's this bookshelf that sits on top of old carpet, even older than the carpet I'm pulling up. How can I butt the Pergo up to it if I'm supposed to leave the expansion space. I don't really want to put a strip of quarter round in there. I thought I could pull the book shelf out, take out the old carpet under it, and run the pergo under it. Any ideas?

The first photo is the bookshelf that was built in place on top of the older carpet. The second is a close up of the bookshelf. I'm not sure if you can see but there isn't a lot of room there for baseboard or quarter round.

From about the left end of the bookshelf to the window is an addition put on about 40 years ago. The person in the photo is my wife, pulling staples. Bless her heart

Any ideas would be welcome!
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transition and expansion allowance-20150614_152630.jpg   transition and expansion allowance-20150614_152338.jpg  

Last edited by scroff; 06-14-2015 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:39 PM   #2
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I'm no flooring expert, and I expect there'll be some professionals posting their opinions shortly, especially Rusty who's a pro carpet installer, but regarding the place where the wood floor meets the plywood...

...check out the "CTA-XX-P" and "CTA-XX-PL" moldings under "Wheeled Traffic Transitions" on the following web page:

http://www.johnsonite.com/WallBase,F....aspx#subfloor

They're basically a 2 1/2 inch wide and 4 inch wide hard rubber tapered shim that covers a floor height of 3/8 inch (or just about 10 mm) on one side and tapers to zero thickness on the other side. You'd have to call, but Johnsonite makes their rubber moldings in about 48 different colours, so you could hopefully get one that matches your Pergo. You can order Johnsonite products from any retail carpet store in your area. You could install your Pergo to within 1 inch of your wood flooring, and then glue the transition down to cover 1 1/2 or 3 inches of the wood flooring; (or use double sided carpet tape maybe). That way if the Pergo and wood flooring aren't parallel, the transition will allow for a substantial discrepancy.

(If you have trouble reading the figures on that web page, adjust the size setting on your browser from 100% to 200%. On IE8, the size setting is at the bottom right hand corner of the screen.)

Regarding the front of that book case, can you not just use a T-molding and cut one side of the vinyl T-molding off with a razor knife? Or, just use a cheap $5 Stanley 1 1/2 inch wide wood chisel to chop one side of the vinyl molding off?

Ideally, it would be best to remove the bookcase and install your flooring, then put the book case back in place. But, there may be a difference in floor heights and the screws that hold the book case to the wall might not align with the holes in the wall afterwards. Also, you're there to see the practicalities of the situation, and if you figure it shouldn't be removed and replaced, then it's your house, your money and your call.
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Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 06-14-2015 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:36 AM   #3
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Can you post a picture of the transition area with whatever walls are involved? Also, will the pergo be parallel with the transition or perpendicular?

Personally, I would take the bookcase out and pergo under it. Knowing that strip of carpet was there would eat at me . I also think taking the bookcase out wouldn't be that much more work than installing quarter round (of course, I don't know much about how the bookcase is installed). Since you have it built around the register, you'll need the current gap between the subfloor and the bottom of the bookcase to be close to 10mm or that cutout may not land in the same place when you put it back in.

If you do take it out, make sure you take a razor to the paint where the bookcase meets the wall so it comes out neatly.

Last edited by costgeek; 06-15-2015 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
...

(If you have trouble reading the figures on that web page, adjust the size setting on your browser from 100% to 200%. On IE8, the size setting is at the bottom right hand corner of the screen.)
On many browsers Ctrl + (hold Control key and press the + key) will increase the size and Ctrl - will decrease the size.
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:24 AM   #5
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Thanks for the replies.
I'm uploading a few shots of the area where the wood floor meets the plywood. There's also a sketch of the floor layout. The red lines delineate the area where the old wood floor is now, and the blue line marks whee I want the pergo to end. There's also a slate floor involved that is about a quarter inch higher then the wood floor, but I'm hoping I can use floor molding there. It's hard to see in the photos where the wood ends and the plywood begins, so I marked it.

The pergo will run perpendicular to the old flooring. I'm trying to avoid a bowling alley effect since it's a long run through the other room adjoining this one.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I think, as I look at this, that I probably should have had the old floor that I'm keeping refinished before doing this job... would it be impossible to refinish the old floor after this pergo is down?
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transition and expansion allowance-20150615_092051aa.jpg   transition and expansion allowance-20150615_092003.jpg   transition and expansion allowance-20150615_092025.jpg   transition and expansion allowance-layout.jpg  

Last edited by scroff; 06-15-2015 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:09 AM   #6
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So does the house continue on to the East (orientation based on your drawing), or does it end in that room? If it ends at that room, and you're going to refinish the wood floor anyway why not see if you can find the same size planks, extend the hardwood into the living room and refinish the whole thing? You might even be able to find it used.

My guess is there is more house to the east and to do it all in hardwood might break the bank?

So if the pergo is perpendicular to the hardwood, it will be parallel to the threshold. Since you will not be covering up end cuts, you could butt a threshold up against the pergo instead of overlapping it (might need to shave the tongue off). If it were me I'd browse the trim and moulding section of a home depot and find something a little thicker than 10mm (maybe 1/2") with rounded edges on one of the flat sides. It would need to be something sturdy (i.e. hardwood). Then just nail that to the hardwood, butted up tight against the pergo.

Or you could use something like this laminate threshold. In any case, it doesn't sound like you'd use t-moulding for this.

Name:  Thresh.jpg
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Have you made sure the threshold will clear the stairway opening (looks like it does in the drawing).

Last edited by costgeek; 06-15-2015 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:23 PM   #7
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To the east is a pretty large kitchen, with cheapo stick tiles that someday will be replaced.

We were looking at Bruce engineered hardwood. It was $110 a box, 22 sq ft to a box. I need 200 sq ft for this room so that was kinda a bit pricey. The pergo was about $400, with a 15% discount.

All this advice has been very helpful. I thank you all. My final question, right now, is when I put the bookshelf back on top of the pergo, will that impede expansion. I'm supposed to leave 3/8" space around the perimeter. Do you think that the bookcase, once refastened to the floor, will stop the pergo's expansion and cause it to buckle? My thought is to lay 3/8" stock under the bookshelf to about an inch and a half from the side where the pergo is going, then run the pergo under it about an inch so it has room to expand.

It just occurred to me. You mentioned the stairs. The pergo covers the stairwell, but there's a bullnose there from the old wood floor that's about an inch thick. I don't believe the pergo stair molding will cover it. My thoughts are to cut it flat and lay the pergo stair molding there and be done with it. Again, any advice always welcome. I still have to paint the walls and ceiling so it'll be a day or so before I tackle this pergo.

And again thank you !
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:07 PM   #8
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That might work. Just get the bookcase maybe 1/8" higher than the pergo. For the stability of the bookcase I wouldn't cut off 1.5" though. Maybe plan to run the pergo 1/4" under the bookcase. If you don't like the look of the gap between them you could use some white silicone caulk that can handle a little movement.

I'm sure you know this, but be sure to acclimate your pergo for a few days to it's new environment. You can leave it stacked in the boxes...just get it in there.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:47 PM   #9
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Sub-floor thickness


I'm at a crossroads here. I decided I'd rather not have the threshold from the pergo to the original oak if I can avoid it, but therein lies the problem.

I removed one sheet of plywood and found that it is true 3/4 AC. Nice stuff. The subfloor under that is old 1/2" plank (3 5/8" wide) running diagonally across the joists from when the house was built in the mid fifties. In order to meet the height of the oak floor evenly I can only use 3/8" plywood over the 1/2" because the pergo is 10mm. I was hoping (silly me) that the planks would be 3/4.

Is that enough of a subfloor for the pergo, or do I have to bite the bullet and go with the threshold?
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