Tiling Bathroom Floor.... - Flooring - Page 3 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 08-23-2011, 10:37 AM   #31
Tile with Style
 
BlueStoneFloors's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 52
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Looks good, Tom. More screws is always better, especially around your toilet and down the main traffic walkway. You can still put more in now, mortar won't be dry for a while. Full tiles against the tub looks the best with that type of layout. Go to Harbor Freight if you have one and buy the multitool for undercutting your door casings. It's like $30 and you will love that tool for so many jobs. take a tile and 2 pieces of cardboard(that simulates the increase in flooring height with mortar) and use that as your cutting guide. As close to full and half tiles in the doorway as you can calculate, but don't cut it too close. I'd use a 3/8" trowel for that tile...More consistent than 1/2", more adjustment than 1/4"...Got your msg I'll reply when I get a few minutes, best of luck buddy...
__________________
Hell is 8 months of nothing but slate work...
BlueStoneFloors is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-23-2011, 02:44 PM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: burlington, nc 27215
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default


It's been almost 48hrs since installing the durock, can i still put more screws or would it even help at this point?? They are mostly 8'' apart but some are 6-7''.

Last edited by tomknox; 08-23-2011 at 02:47 PM.
tomknox is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-23-2011, 04:59 PM   #33
Tile with Style
 
BlueStoneFloors's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 52
Rewards Points: 75
Default


ehh... I'm really not sure I've never waited that long. Ask Bud or Jazman
__________________
Hell is 8 months of nothing but slate work...
BlueStoneFloors is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-23-2011, 06:16 PM   #34
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,705
Rewards Points: 558
Default


Quote:
It's been almost 48hrs since installing the durock, can i still put more screws or would it even help at this point??
I've never waited that long either. Nothing to lose by experimenting a little since that seems to be the policy anyway.

I would try driving a few more screws. If they cause little upheavals then don't do any more.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 06:54 PM   #35
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: burlington, nc 27215
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Thanks bud, i will give it a try and see what happens. I will let you know how it goes! I thought maybe i should'nt, the floor is sound and does'nt creak or crack in anyway. My pop's did the muddin, but he's been laying brick for 30 years!
tomknox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #36
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,705
Rewards Points: 558
Default


Quote:
I thought maybe i should'nt, the floor is sound and does'nt creak or crack in anyway
I understand but over time the thinset will likely release from the substrate and...

Oh Wait, I think I already said that.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 09:09 PM   #37
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: burlington, nc 27215
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Bud yes you did say that, you probably feel like a broken record sometime's!!

*UPDATE*

The screw's went in fine, i hope that it has no repercution's! After that i mixed up just a little mud to get by tail feather's wet on this tiling thing. I had a fun time doing it and can't wait to do more!! Here's where i'm at now...





tomknox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 09:24 PM   #38
Retired Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 25,728
Rewards Points: 7,174
Default


Why did you leave the toilet tile out? It's not good to leave tiles out--very hard to get them in afterwords.

Typically the full cuts at the tub are first --then work your way over to the cut ones---that way if any adjustments need to be done it's on the cuts and not the fulls.---Mike---
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 09:41 PM   #39
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,705
Rewards Points: 558
Default


I would have started at the tub and worked my way to that wall in the above photo. You may (now) find yourself shaving tiles at the tub and that isn't always easy to do.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 11:23 PM   #40
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: burlington, nc 27215
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Quote:
Why did you leave the toilet tile out?


I've got snip's and a HD straight 20.00 dollar cutter. I figure that i would have to get lowe's to cut it or buy a bit for my dremell....

Quote:
It's not good to leave tiles out
I laid the tile out dry and marked w/pencil, i scraped the extra mud out around and checked with another dry tile for a quick measure and it seemed fine. I figure that i could hide any difference w/the toilet, and make it toward's the wall side/corner if there was any major difference's?

Quote:
Typically the full cuts at the tub are first --then work your way over to the cut ones---that way if any adjustments need to be done it's on the cuts and not the fulls.---Mike---
I agree 100% and i should have done that, the only thing that held me back was the vent hole for the A/C. I cant make those cut's either, so i did'nt start there. I should have though, if i planned good enough then i think it should be fine. Yall guy's pray for me!!

Quote:
I would have started at the tub and worked my way to that wall in the above photo. You may (now) find yourself shaving tiles at the tub and that isn't always easy to do.
I just learned how to quote so i did it again, hope it doesn't make me look like a
tomknox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2011, 11:36 PM   #41
Retired Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 25,728
Rewards Points: 7,174
Default


You would benefit from owning a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a diamond blade---Handy for the few cuts that you have there.
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 08:13 AM   #42
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,705
Rewards Points: 558
Default


Quote:
if i planned good enough then i think it should be fine.
If you "planned good enough" you would be starting at the correct location and cutting tiles as you go.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 01:08 PM   #43
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: burlington, nc 27215
Posts: 119
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Quote:
If you "planned good enough" you would be starting at the correct location and cutting tiles as you go.
Fair statement, i did however check again since you guy's had me worried. Whata ya know, it's fine! Just goes to show that there's more than one way to skin a cat bud.
tomknox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 03:20 PM   #44
Tile with Style
 
BlueStoneFloors's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 52
Rewards Points: 75
Default


Well Tom, Bud is correct it's much easier to install tiles as you go. Not so much an issue with toilets and vents, but when you get to those meddlesome door casing you won't be able to slide tile underneath them if the tile next to it is installed and dry. From a pro's perspective, it's just good policy to not leave tiles open in the middle of a pattern. How's that Castlevetro tile to work with? They make a good product, and actually bake it all the way through! If I was you and planned on possibly doing tile again in another area, I would look on Craigslist for used wetsaws. I'm guessing $100 u could get a decent MK or $200 for a Dewalt chop arm wetsaw. Running cuts to the tile store is ridiculous, bro...Let me know if you hit any snags

Brian
__________________
Hell is 8 months of nothing but slate work...

Last edited by BlueStoneFloors; 08-24-2011 at 03:30 PM.
BlueStoneFloors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 03:43 PM   #45
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,705
Rewards Points: 558
Default


Quote:
Not so much an issue with toilets and vents, but when you get to those meddlesome door casing you won't be able to slide tile underneath them if the tile next to it is installed and dry.
If you don't heed another suggestion, please listen to the one above. Brian is 100% correct.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Carpet in the basement Packer Backer Flooring 17 11-30-2018 03:10 AM
Tiling a bathroom floor and installing under floor heating tlovesb Flooring 6 02-04-2011 07:01 AM
New foundation for bathroom floor and exterior wall studs JayG Building & Construction 2 07-11-2010 02:25 PM
Removing concrete slab on 3rd floor bathroom NowItsShowtime Flooring 2 03-26-2009 03:17 PM
Leaking bathroom floor patatura Flooring 6 12-06-2008 07:30 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts