Solid Hardwood 1/2" Vrs. 3/4" - Flooring - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:16 PM   #16
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The first thing you have to do is follow the manufacturer's directions for the specific type of wood and all your installation conditions. We don't know what you're using yet.

When nailing and glueing you will not be installing tar paper. Why do you think you need paper on the second floor anyway?

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Old 01-24-2014, 03:49 PM   #17
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I think I like using the paper because it helps slide each piece into place, for faster nailing. I guess if I will be glueing that doesn't matter much. Would you recommend putting anything between the planks and the 3/4" OSB? Maybe for sound dampening? (Assuming I'll be installing 5" hickory...of course I'll read the manufacturers instructions).
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:10 PM   #18
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Yes of course the paper makes sliding the pieces with your feet easier. I highly recommend using tarpaper under hardwood. But, if the manufacturer tells you to also glue their wood, you'll skip the tarpaper. Wide planks may come loose and/or cup, due to their width. The glue will help prevent that.

The best type of glue to use is one that is spread with a trowel covering 100% of the substrate.

The 4" wide planks I used came with the suggestion that I could also glue in addition to fastening with the cleats. A suggestion, not a requirement. Otherwise I would have used 3.5".

If you want to add sound deadening, there are hundreds of products and methods. Some are adhesives with sound control benefits.

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Old 01-24-2014, 05:01 PM   #19
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Thanks Jazman. I imagine the sound deadening adhesive is better than dealing with adhesive above or below paper or a membrane. Looks like I have a lot of work ahead of me.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:07 PM   #20
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Another question (don't want to start a new thread). Do you ever stain/paint your own quarter round and thresholds to save money. They are very expensive when ordering them from the flooring suppliers. Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:37 PM   #21
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The shoe molding yes, but the threshold and stair nosing is part of the floor and is usually available to match. The color will be better and so will the finish.

Don't forget the floor air registers if you have that type.

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Old 01-25-2014, 06:46 AM   #22
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Will these adhesives tear up my OSB subfloor if I ever want to remove the hardwood?
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:08 AM   #23
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Do you glue even if the manufacturer says only nails?

http://www.builddirect.com/pdf/hardw...n-updated3.pdf
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:12 PM   #24
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Joe,

Where in those instructions does it say to nail only? There is no mention of widths that require gluing, they don't speak about it at all.

Have you decided on a specific item yet, or still thinking about it?

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Old 01-25-2014, 03:23 PM   #25
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Seriously considering this 5" Oak (Jasper). Not sure about spending 4 figures over the internet, but from what I have read builder direct seems reputable. Might check some local shops first.

It doesn't say to not use glue, but it doesn't say to use it either.

http://www.builddirect.com/Hardwood-..._10087354.aspx
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:02 PM   #26
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Yet another question. 3/4" x 5" oak on 3/4" OSB. Nail or Staple? 2" or 1 1/2"? Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
It doesn't say to not use glue, but it doesn't say to use it either.
Well of course not, those aren't instructions for 5" wide hardwood. Matter of fact that sheet does not go into much detail as some others do.

Both staples and cleats are fine. Again, you gotta read what the manufacturer recommends.

My machine shoots cleats and I used 2". Some guys prefer staples. They may split less and are cheaper too.

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Old 01-26-2014, 08:44 AM   #28
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Will gluing (probably with Bostik's Best or similar) ruin my OSB subfloor if we ever have to replace this floor? This is our "forever house".
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:14 AM   #29
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Just like this home to you...... 3/4" hardwood is considered also to be a forever decision.

If you ever wanted to remove it I would guess some small chunks may go with it. If that possibility makes you so nervous that you'd lose sleep, maybe consider something else. Who cares if you go with your second choice floor for the next 40 years?

If I ever decide to lose my pool, I will have a big hole in the ground. Oh no.....then what do I do?

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Old 01-26-2014, 02:04 PM   #30
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If I continue with new questions related to my project, I'll keep em in this thread...otherwise I might clog up the board.

Next 1: I am laying this hardwood floor in three bedrooms and a hallway and have a question about direction. Without getting too complicated, I have to choose between the two options:

A. Long ways in rectangular master bedroom and short ways in adjacent hallway (train tracks) This is also perpendicular to joists.

B. Short ways in master bedroom and long ways in hallway. Parrallel to joist.

Not sure which one to do...either way one area will not look ideal. I'm gonna try to do the entire second floor with no room-to-room transitions (except for bathrooms). I'll have to use splines in a few places.

2: Is the Bostik's Best a full back-butter or trowel to make grooves?

Last edited by joemontana16; 01-26-2014 at 03:21 PM.
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