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Old 05-29-2015, 09:37 AM   #1
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securing a 2nd layer of subfloor


if i wanted to add 1/4" osb plywood to an already existing 3/4" osb subfloor, what would be the best way to join the two? Could I get away with just screws? Or should an adhesive of some sort be used as well?
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:09 AM   #2
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No adhesive. What will be the floorcovering?
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:10 AM   #3
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we will be doing allure plus flooring
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:41 AM   #4
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No screws and no adhesive.
Should be using underlayment rated multiply real plywood.
I've never even seen 1/4 OSB.
The fastest easiest way is to use a pneumatic narrow crown staple gun.
Seams should not line up with the seams below, do not attach to the joist.
Fastners need to be every 4" on the edges from 6 to 8" in the field.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
No screws and no adhesive.
Should be using underlayment rated multiply real plywood.
I've never even seen 1/4 OSB.
The fastest easiest way is to use a pneumatic narrow crown staple gun.
Seams should not line up with the seams below, do not attach to the joist.
Fastners need to be every 4" on the edges from 6 to 8" in the field.
Joe is right and I like my staples a little closer together than Joe does.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
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the osb that i was referring to was called sheathing plywood, not t&g plywood. i do see 7/16" under layment flooring. i only said 1/4" due to cheapest as possible. So the OSB plywood shouldnt be used?? why not?

why should it be the multi-layer plywood?

why shouldnt screws be used? why staples?
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:56 PM   #7
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the osb that i was referring to was called sheathing plywood, not t&g plywood. i do see 7/16" under layment flooring. i only said 1/4" due to cheapest as possible. So the OSB plywood shouldnt be used?? why not?

why should it be the multi-layer plywood?

why shouldnt screws be used? why staples?
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:09 PM   #8
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It can't be OSB and plywood too. Which is it? Also, the word 'sheathing' tells us it's the very cheapest quality and is intended for vertical outside wall under siding. That's what sheathing is, which leads to your next Q.

Quote:
i only said 1/4" due to cheapest as possible.
Why would you wanna do that?

Quote:
why should it be the multi-layer plywood?
Because it's a good quality underlayment which has no voids, is sanded smooth and is dimensionally stable. It's one of the recommended products for the job.

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why shouldnt screws be used? why staples?
Screws can create puckers and can split the veneers as they're torqued especially with thinner sheets. Underlayment staples don't disturb the surface giving you a nice smooth floor, and of course it's also faster. If you don't want to rent the equipment, use ring shank nails.

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Old 05-29-2015, 10:36 PM   #9
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If you are not in a hurry and nail carefully, ring shank nails are great. When I first got into the business in 1973, I used a lot of ring shank nails.
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:13 AM   #10
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The biggest issues I have with using nails is it's slow and will leave dimples that will need to be filled and sanded.
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:37 AM   #11
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when it comes to length of nails or staples, how deep do i want these to go? just in to the sub floor below or all the way through into a joist?
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:34 AM   #12
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Just into the subfloor.
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:49 AM   #13
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Ok. Well, I don't want to rent a stapler/compressor so I think I'll go with the ring shank option.

Thanks everyone for your help
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:45 AM   #14
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Should say underlayment nails right on the box.
Most places only have one length.
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:29 AM   #15
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So if I were to buy the ring shank nails, is there a rule of thumb as to how deep they should go so i wouldnt have to use wood filler to remove the dimples and what not? or is there no way to avoid it?

there is the staple route but even then you'd see the crown of the staple head line (if im picturing that right). how would you erase those lines?
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