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Old 08-11-2015, 10:02 AM   #1
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Sealing New Maple Stair treads


hello everyone,

I am having my stairs entirely redone - I will be going with white stringers, risers and balusters and Keeping the Treads and handrail natural maple..

I currently have Maple hardwood floors - natural colour, high gloss. I have purchased more of the same for the upstairs hall.

The floors are "natural" - I presume no stain involved, although there is a nice warmth/amberness to the floors that I presume is from the polyurethane (Or whatever) finish... (I will attach pics when I get a moment)

There is SO MUCH misinformation out there about how to finish Maple - most of it talks about staining with a colour (Something I am not doing). And then when you get to the fact that people routinely refer to Varnish/urethane/polyurethane interchangeable, it gets confusing.

I understand the prep work involved. What I am looking for is guidance/steps during application as well as any product recommendations anyone may have to get my stair treads and handrail to have that same natural, warm, high gloss finish my floors have.

thank you....

Marc
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:38 AM   #2
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here is a pic of my maple floors that I am trying to match the maple treads to... (I did not install the floors).. in this picture the floors appear "Lighter" than they do in person, where they actually have a warmer, slightly more amber hue to them.
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Sealing New Maple Stair treads-img_2306.jpg  

Last edited by JackHandy; 08-11-2015 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:48 PM   #3
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As a floor ages it changes color. It might take the stairs awhile to match the floor having it age naturally.
If you add something to the stairs for it to match immediately, as it ages it will differ in color from the floor.
Pick which one you want.
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:06 PM   #4
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not looking to redo the floors for the purpose of matching. I'm not overly concerned if they look IDENTICAL, i just don't want a massive difference. The floors appear warmer than other lighter floors I've seen although it says "Natural" on the hardwood floor boxes. For this reason I was thinking of going with the oil based Polyurethane as it has a more "Amber" hue from what I've read...

do you recommend thinning the poly? Spoke to a buddy who has been a woodworker/cabinet maker for over 20 years and he says he uses oil based poly thinned about 40% for the first application, reducing the amount of thinner applied so that the final coat is NO thinner, for a total of 4 coats with 320 grit sanding in between coats....
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