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Old 12-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #61
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ok, here are my findings............

1. see attachment for existing joist layout, the 9'-4" span is the entry way. then it ends at 9'-4 and starts the new run of 16'. the two joists meet like shown below. they are mounted to the center brace as shown.

2.if i were to double up the rim-board all the way around, the only side that would benefit from that would be the right side by the closet door. all other three sides wouldnt even touch the sister joist.

so. where do i go from here with the info i just gave you?
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replacing plywood subfloor, please help-existing-span.jpg  

Last edited by crankbait09; 12-04-2014 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 12-04-2014, 08:23 PM   #62
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If you can sister direct to the rim, do it. It's better and very easy.

1. 9'4" is a good span. 16' is very marginal. I'd have to know the species and grade too. Are you tiling the whole area?

2. I'm not understanding what you're saying about rim boards. I thought you had only one side with rim board. On the north side where that door is shown in post #34. But fasten to rim or joists if at all possible. Then of course you don't use hangers.

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Old 12-04-2014, 08:40 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
If you can sister direct to the rim, do it. It's better and very easy.

1. 9'4" is a good span. 16' is very marginal. I'd have to know the species and grade too. Are you tiling the whole area?

2. I'm not understanding what you're saying about rim boards. I thought you had only one side with rim board. On the north side where that door is shown in post #34. But fasten to rim or joists if at all possible. Then of course you don't use hangers.

Jaz
1. the only area being tiled is the entry way, which is on the 9'-4" span. the 16' span is running towards the back of the house, which im not touching. it's remaining carpeted. I may do the kitchen at a later date but after this project, i may boycott that all together!!

2. when you guys mentioned a "rim board", i thought that meant any board running along the edge. so any existing plywood i left behind, i thought that was rim board. guess not . again, terminology that i know nothing about.

so yes, the only rim board i have, is on the north side (as you stated).

3. so since i am not close enough to existing joists to just use "sistering", what should i do now?
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Old 12-04-2014, 08:57 PM   #64
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1. Boycott if you want. If you're married, how comfy is the couch?

2. Rim boards are the "joists size" pieces at the outer "rim" of the house or over other concrete walls.

3. You can fasten several 2x10's to bring the last one out far enough. Or you could toe-nail most and just use a hanger for the last bay. Or? Just put something there to support the ply.

Jaz
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:17 PM   #65
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to me it seems as if i were to do the (5) perpendicular joists like i was thinking, would be the easiest and would be the most support i could get. no?

ok, it sounds like it i am now at the point where I need to decide how to support the subfloor. It sounds like there really isnt a right or wrong way to do this, as long as the ply is supported.

correct?

i will see what i come up with. then after that, it is time to begin the tile process!!
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:28 PM   #66
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Well...........do it any way you want, but it'll be wrong cuz since there is no t&g you're recreating the same situation as on the north/south sides. You'd have to install 5 with hangers and then also install blocking to support the ends.

Got some paper handy to draw it so you can picture it?

Jaz
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:48 PM   #67
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sigh............

"3. You can fasten several 2x10's to bring the last one out far enough. Or you could toe-nail most and just use a hanger for the last bay. Or? Just put something there to support the ply."

ok, so if i were to build the 2x10's (4) thick along the north side, that would give me enough to mount the plywood. I wouldnt need 4 thick along the east and west walls, more like (2) thick. how do i handle the south section? i have no perp running joists to connect to

i feel like anything i thought i understood, was not as clear as crystal as i thought
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:58 PM   #68
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My suggestion in "3" is for the north wall only. You should sister the east & west joists. You will probably need to block the south side, but I'm taking a WAG cuz there is no pic of that side.

Who's gonna do this work anyway? Got help?

Jaz
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:03 PM   #69
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i can sister the east/west wall as many deep as i need as well??? (I need one maybe two deep on the west, and one deep on the east). the west wall has the HVAC duct I need to hook back up. so I'd have to cut that out.........so the sistering of the joist would be in the way

I will post a pic of the south wall tomorrow. but it is nothing more than the existing plywood, only mounted on the existing joists. no perp joists either.

i saw the prices of these 2x10's. that will add up quickly as well. can i get by with a 2x4, or 2x6?

this work is all me. which is why i am asking so many questions. I know no one that does this type of work or is knowledgeable with it.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:23 PM   #70
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Quote:
i can sister the east/west wall as many deep as i need as well??? (I need one maybe two deep on the west, and one deep on the east). the west wall has the HVAC duct I need to hook back up. so I'd have to cut that out.........so the sistering of the joist would be in the way
You could shim out as you stated, or how about trimming the subfloor a bit more. I have no way to tell you what to do with the HVAC.

Quote:
I will post a pic of the south wall tomorrow. but it is nothing more than the existing plywood, only mounted on the existing joists. no perp joists either.
That's what I'm expecting to see. How far away is the beam? You will block the south side too.

You can use smaller dimensional lumber as I stated before.

Jaz
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:48 PM   #71
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i thought about trimming the plywood closer to the wall (west wall). only have the jig saw to use for that. just gotta make sure its square though.
so the east/west walls will be the easiest to run the joists along. only have to go one deep

the north side is a little trickier since the joist is a little further under the door way.

the closest beam for the south side is about 3 ft away. (no where close) i guess the joist hangers would be best for this side.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:39 PM   #72
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I photoshopped your pic to hopefully clarify. The first pick shows where you should put blocking in red. You'll need to support where the old subfloor (by the door and by the carpet) meet. Those will be 2x10's.

In pic 2 is how you would sister to the one joist by the HVAC. In green, you could probably get away with just using a 2x4 and cutting the old sufloor flush to the wall.

On the other side, in purple would be a new 2x10, 9'4" long that supports the edge of the old and new subfloors. Half will be under the old, and the other half will be for the new.

Now if you have a joist that is relatively close (pic 3, black line), you could cut the subfloor back to it, and then use a 2x4 sistered to it like the green in pic 2.

In either case, you'll still need to add blocking where there is no T&G and or the old and new subfloor meet up.
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replacing plywood subfloor, please help-12-3-2014-blocking.jpg   replacing plywood subfloor, please help-12-3-2014-added-2-bys.jpg   replacing plywood subfloor, please help-12-3-2014-5th-joist.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2014, 08:45 PM   #73
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ok, a little up date on to where i am on this subfloor

i have gotten all my blocking and sister joists in place. that was much easier than i originally thought it was going to be. I was way over thinking that whole process as well as thinking how difficult it was. eh, wrong

i now need to clean the top of the joists off then i should be ready to lay the subfloor.

here is a picture of the current status
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:03 PM   #74
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Looks good!
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:09 PM   #75
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thank you!!
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