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Old 11-30-2014, 03:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crank
So since I removed the ply from under that wall in one small section, do i continue all the way down doing the same or should I make my cut a couple inches away from the wall like you stated and worry about that one corner later? Once I hit a corcner, What can i use to finish the cut to remove the remaining plywood? I'm thinking jigsaw?
Leave as much of the old subfloor as you feel comfy with to make it as easy to install the new joist. Remember the edges of both the old and new must be supported. Also remember that when you piece in a small piece of subfloor, it should be supported by 3 joists, 2 can cause the edges to peak when a load is applied to the space between the joists.

Another solution in your case might be to add an underlayment to give you a nice flat uniform base. If you do that it will have to be over the entire areas and needs to be installed in the same direction as the sub & min. ⅜" thick.

Jigsaw, circular, whatever will fit and make a straight cut.

The new joist (s) needs to be the same size as the old, 2x10". Use joist hangers available everywhere.

Jaz
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:24 AM   #32
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ok, so if i were to hang small joists as braces, perpendicular to the existing joists, do i need joist hangers with a span that small? If I do need them, i was looking at HD and say tons of options. how do i know what hangers to use? what type of nails/screws do i use to hang these joist hangers/joists? I will be taking measurements of the span that you requested tonight or tomorrow. (i have to get down in the crawl space for that)
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:18 PM   #33
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Hangers make the job easier and better. They make nails for the job, but it's not critical in your case. They should be 1.5" long. Screws using a magnetic bit might be a good idea for this. Use good screws, not drywall screws.

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Old 12-03-2014, 10:26 PM   #34
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I'm back now. I finally got all of the old subfloor/underlayment pulled up. I still need to clean off the old OSB/adhesive from each joist.

I am posting a picture of the status thus far.

I was going to stop at HD tomorrow or the next day and purchase the 2x10 joists and hangers so I have them at the house when it comes to the point of installing them.

If my calculations are right, i will need (5) 2x10 joist that will lay perpendicular to the existing joists, which will be spaced 16" o.c.. I will run 5 of them in the first row on the left. then i will do the same layout for the row on the far right. each row of little joists will have a total of (10) joist hangers (2 per mini joist, 5 joists in each row). I was looking at the HD website and they have 3 different types of joist hangers, ranging from $1.50-$5.00 each. since that is a considerable price difference, can you help me in determining which one will work for my needs? As for the screws to mount the joist hangers, you mentioned not using drywall screws, can i used the galvanized screws that HD sells (gray boxes)? Or should I be thinking of something else?

in the photo attached, you will see in the lower left corner, the area that i screwed up. Should I just notch that area out and clean it up? How can I go about fixing that?

other than that, i think it looks good. (but thats a total rookies thoughts ).
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replacing plywood subfloor, please help-12-3-2014-.jpg   replacing plywood subfloor, please help-12-3-2014-b.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:59 PM   #35
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Could you slide in a full 2x10 and just add a couple of new joists? How far do the joists go until they are supported by a beam?
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:03 PM   #36
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I forgot to get the span that Jaz asked me for. I'll get that answer tomorrow
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:05 PM   #37
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On the left side, does the wall sit flush with the joist? if you sistered in a 2x10 and removed the plywood, you might be able to support the new subfloor.
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:16 PM   #38
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Thanks for the pics, they help. The pics show something a little different from what I thought.

HDS is right, you need to add, (sister) two long joists on the right and left, the 1st and 5th joists. Also install blocking on the other two sides. You can use hangers for these short joists, 4 near the door and the same on the opposite end.

It's best to glue and bolt, or at least screw, the two joists to the old. The two new joists don't have to rest on the center beam or the outer wall for support, but can if you can do it.

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Old 12-04-2014, 08:33 AM   #39
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so the little perpendicular joists are not an option at this point???? that is easier for me to do by myself. without measuring, i poked my head through the crawl space and noticed there was no end in the joist run. or if there was, it was blocked with insulation. SO i will need to get down there and determine exactly how long the run is. I will figure out the span exactly. Why exactly is it critical to know the existing span?

so right now, i need to be set on which joist option i go with. little perps, or new long runs. not comfortable with the thought of long runs, but i will do what i need to do. please advise
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Old 12-04-2014, 08:34 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDS View Post
On the left side, does the wall sit flush with the joist? if you sistered in a 2x10 and removed the plywood, you might be able to support the new subfloor.
onthe left, the wall sticks out maybe 1/4" from the existing joist underneath. so not exactly flush
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:15 AM   #41
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onthe left, the wall sticks out maybe 1/4" from the existing joist underneath. so not exactly flush
If that is the case, you should be able to sister in a second 2x10 the entire length (even supporting it on the foundation wall) and still have a good inch sticking out for your subfloor to sit on.

Cut back the old subfloor flush to the wall on the left side.
Add blocking at the opposite end of the door where the old subfloor will meet the new subfloor. You want to support the edges.

If you can, add a piece of scrap wood to the bottom of the floor joist where the blocking is going. You can use this as a shelf to hold the 2x10 you are going to sister in. Measure the distance from the blocking to the foundation pocket/rim joist to get the length of your sister joist. Cut the 2x10 a bit short, say 1/2 to 1" so you can slide it in easier and still have room to rest on the sill plate.

Take your 2x10, notch the top slightly (1/2" deep by 4-5") so it'll slide into the foundation pocket. Get some construction adhesive and put a bead on the old joist.

Slide in the new 2x10 in and up against the old floor joist. Using 3" decking screws, screw it in place. Don't use drywall screws.

You can use nails, but it is going to be hard to swing a hammer between floor joists. If you don't have one, get or borrow an impact driver for putting in the screws.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:03 AM   #42
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Can you please explain to me what this blocking is? I don't understand what that is/means.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:29 AM   #43
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Crank,

The two long joists would be better and should be easier too. They don't have to go all the way to the supports if that's too hard. All they're for is to support and fasten the new ply to. They don't even have to be the same width.

The span of the joists info is to make sure they're stiff enough for ceramic tile. I don't recall a mention of when the house was built. Modern specs should be good enough for ceramic/porcelain, just making sure.

Blocking in your case would be the short joists, (14.5") that you will fasten between the joists at both ends. North and South as we look at the pic.

Jaz
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:44 AM   #44
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Crank,

The two long joists would be better and should be easier too. They don't have to go all the way to the supports if that's too hard. All they're for is to support and fasten the new ply to. They don't even have to be the same width.

The span of the joists info is to make sure they're stiff enough for ceramic tile. I don't recall a mention of when the house was built. Modern specs should be good enough for ceramic/porcelain, just making sure.

Blocking in your case would be the short joists, (14.5") that you will fasten between the joists at both ends. North and South as we look at the pic.

Jaz
I am attaching another image of what i was thinking and also what i was imagining from what you said. lets clear that up first.........
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File Type: pdf joist span.pdf (8.6 KB, 133 views)
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:47 PM   #45
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I am attaching another image of what i was thinking and also what i was imagining from what you said. lets clear that up first.........
You'll still need the 'New Perp Joists' aka blocking, at the ends where the old subfloor meets the new subfloor. You'll need it between all 4 of your joists openings. Half will be under the old subfloor, and half under the new subfloor to give added strength.

On your interpretation, you are spot on (plus adding the blocking across the width to support where the old and new subfloors meet.) The question is, on the right side when facing the door. how close is that joist to the edge of the wall. If you remove the extra subfloor and sister a joist to it, will it stick out enough to support the subfloor?
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