Please Advise On This Floor Repair Plan (with Some Ancillary Issues) - Flooring - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 04-18-2014, 11:11 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 31
Rewards Points: 24
Default

Please advise on this floor repair plan (with some ancillary issues)


I am about to do the flooring and drywall for a bathroom for the area shown in the pic. Please let me know if I am approaching this correctly. I have listed the things I am going to do in the sequence I plan to do them and I sometimes ask specific questions.

I am in Michigan. The bathroom is on the 2nd floor and it is above the kitchen. I know the copper pipes in the wall are a bit iffy, but I need to do (for reasons that are too complicated to explain now).

1. Lay R13 insulation between the studs.

Q1.1 Should I put a moisture barrier between the sheathing and the insulation? In one hole in the sheathing, I can see what looks like tar paper between the sheathing and the outside shingles, but in another hole it looks like the tar paper got damaged.

2. Wrap the copper pipes with armacell.

Q2.1 Is completely wrapping with armacell overkill? (There is going to be R13 insulation between the pipes and the sheathing and the bathroom is well heated). Should I perhaps cut the armacell so that it fits between the wall insulation and the back of the pipes, thus leaving the front of the pipes exposed and able to obtain heat from the bathroom? My concern is that if I wrap the pipe completely in armacell, I deny it the opportunity to be exposed to heat from the bathroom.

3. Install sheetrock drywall (Mold tough type X gypsum) with green side facing inside. (I have been told the green side is the moisture resistant side).

Q3.1 Should I cut the drywall so that it reaches all the way to the 1*6s at the bottom, or should I leave some space between the 1*6 and the drywall to allow for expansion.

4. Replace missing 1*6s.

5. Install 3/4 floor grade plywood.

Q5.1 Should I install a moisture barrier between the 1*6s and the 3/4 plywood?

Q5.2 Should I leave some space between the ends of the plywood and the drywall to allow for expansion? If so, how much?

Q5.3 I plan to run the grain of the plywood in the same direction as the 1*6s. This would also be perpendicular to the joists and consistent with the direction of the old plywood I removed. Is this the correct way to lay it?

6. Lay thinset over the plywood.

7. Lay hardibacker over the thinset.

Q7.1 Should I wait for the thinset to dry before I lay the hardibacker? If so, how long should I wait?

8. Screw the hardibacker down.

Q8.1 If I lay the hardibacker when the thinset is wet, should I screw it down while the thinset is still wet?

Q8.2 In screwing the hardibacker down, should I aim to hit the joists or do I just need to screw it into the plywood.

9. Lay the tiles.

Q9.1 In laying the tiles, do I apply thinset to the tiles or to the hardibacker?

Thanks guys!!
Attached Thumbnails
Please advise on this floor repair plan (with some ancillary issues)-20140418_220801.jpg  
takingtoolong is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-19-2014, 08:35 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 36,386
Rewards Points: 17,912
Default


That's A whole lot of questions.
#1, Back up a little. A few things you can count in an old house like yours. If it's balloon wall construction the walls needed to be fire blocked at the top and bottom of the walls, if not there's going to be free air flow behind those walls all the way from the basement to the attic. Makes a great chimney when there's a fire.
#2, Most likely the floor joist are undersized, over spanned, and not even across the tops. Simply checking with a long level and a brick string pulled tight should tell you if they need to be sistered and or shimmed. A tile floor needs to be flat and non flexing.
#3, Never a good idea to run any supply lines through an outside wall, would not even pass inspection around here. If it has to be done switch it out for Pex, and insulate behind it. Compressed batts are useless use some blue foam behind the pipes.
Why are you insulating in the floor?
#4, Using Advantech subflooring instead of plywood and using construction adhesive on top of the joist will give you a stronger, less subject to water damage floor.
#5, Now would be a good time to install 2, ball valves and add an access panel for the shower so the whole house would have to be shut down to work on the tub.
#6, Any underlayment used is not attached to the joist, just between the joist.
#7, Add screws to all that old 1X before going over it.
#8, No you do not let the thin set dry before laying the tile board, spread it out with a 1/2" notched trowel and lay the board. The seams also need to have webbed tile board tape set in thin set.
#9, No you do not use a vapor barrier any place in the floor.
#10, Back buttering on tiles is only needed if you where using large tiles. In your case with old framing I'd never suggest using larger tiles. That floor would have to be dead flat and stronger for large tiles.
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to joecaption For This Useful Post:
JazMan (04-19-2014), MTN REMODEL LLC (04-19-2014), takingtoolong (04-20-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-19-2014, 07:00 PM   #3
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,024
Rewards Points: 750
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
#8, No you do not let the thin set dry before laying the tile board, spread it out with a 1/2" notched trowel and lay the board.
That should say 1/4" not 1/2".

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JazMan For This Useful Post:
takingtoolong (04-20-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-19-2014, 07:39 PM   #4
Rob
 
Robpo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Spring Creek NV
Posts: 1,036
Rewards Points: 826
Default


If there is a shower area and it is going to be tiled I would use cement board and not sheetrock. I would think it would be a good idea to leave a gap between plywood and walls for expansion and gap under bottom of sheetrock so it doesn't suck up moisture if there is a shower. All suggestions are my opinions.
Robpo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2014, 07:44 PM   #5
Remodel and New Build GC
 
MTN REMODEL LLC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Colorado @ 7651'
Posts: 7,970
Rewards Points: 2,244
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
That should say 1/4" not 1/2".

Jaz
Jazz..... Have to ask you.... but if that old flooring is really wavy, out of plane, might you not want to go 1/2.

TIA

Best

Peter
__________________
Never stop learning (xcep fer speling en typeing)
MTN REMODEL LLC is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2014, 09:06 PM   #6
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,024
Rewards Points: 750
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter
Jazz..... Have to ask you.... but if that old flooring is really wavy, out of plane, might you not want to go 1/2.
I say no. Too much thin set and you're liable to make the floor even worse. You're fastening the CBU and not really removing any waves except by accident perhaps.

When mixed and applied correctly the cured thin set thickness will be about 1/16". Just enough to fill any minor variation but its main purpose is to fully support every square inch of the concrete board.

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JazMan For This Useful Post:
takingtoolong (04-20-2014)
Old 04-20-2014, 08:23 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 31
Rewards Points: 24
Default


Apologies for the late note joecaption, but many, many thanks. I know I had a long op, so thanks for taking the time to go through it. Can't say that I will do all you say, but I will certainly consider it as I move forward. (Sorry if I left the impression that I wanted to insulate the floor; I will not be doing that).

I may come back from some clarifications!!
takingtoolong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2014, 08:30 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 31
Rewards Points: 24
Default


Sorry guys -- the pic is incomplete. This is actually only an approx 54 * 19 inch area. I discovered that it was untiled when I removed the old vanity. The remainder of the bathroom is actually tiled with 12*12 and I have to say that it is one of the better jobs done in this house. It is sturdy, with no cracks, and creaking.

Point is that I have to line up the new tiling with the old. Looking at the edge of the existing tiling, I see 1*6, high-quality 3/4 plywood, layer of thinset (I will have to match the thickness of this thinset), hardibacker, and then thinset (which again I will aim to match) and and tiles.

Thanks!!!
takingtoolong is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
bathroom floor


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Elaborate Plan for wiring my theater lighting danielrg Electrical 21 04-05-2013 05:26 PM
What Code Issues Are There In This Plan stevenmw General DIY Discussions 3 08-22-2012 09:05 PM
Need home plan disign software advise? RUMBLON Building & Construction 3 05-18-2011 03:22 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts