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Old 02-09-2015, 08:17 PM   #1
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Pergo laminate, last row problem


Installing Pergo xp, measured carefully ( room is 27' x 13' ). installed lengthwise and my math ( fuzzy type ) told me I would not have to cut boards. When I got to the last two rows, I found that I have 1/2" gap at the wall so my1/4 round trim will let a gap.........how do I solve this problem?
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:26 PM   #2
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I haven't installed Pergo in a long time..... Is XP a glue-up TnG or a click lock product...? and what do you have (or will have exposed on your last row...(a T or a G or clicklock piece.

And do you have a router table...?
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:42 PM   #3
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last row


xp is a tongue & groove, no glue, floating floor. 3/8 gap around edge of room for expansion ( which would be covered by the quarter round ). I will have 1/4" gap as is it now. I don't have a router table or table saw, but I can get my hands on a table saw. If I cut the one of the last rows, I lose the click lock, so the cut will have to be precise so there isn't a gap showing.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
I haven't installed Pergo in a long time..... Is XP a glue-up TnG or a click lock product...? and what do you have (or will have exposed on your last row...(a T or a G or clicklock piece.

And do you have a router table...?
Were you going to suggest using a router to cut my own lip to lock the next piece? I never thought of that, I'll have to ponder this now. good idea!
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:18 PM   #5
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YES..... Exactly (if you had TnG glue-up product.... actually you have a click lock product .... not TnG).

I was thinking of ripping off eneough of your next to last row, to allow you eneough for your last row to be set (2" maybe).

With a TnG product and a router table with a slot cutter bit (and or a spline insert) it is not too difficult.

With click lock, kind of depends on the style of click-lock design. (You will never replicate the actual mechanism, ..... you just want to cut a lap type design that you can glue to give you a nice flat fit....

You might be able to create a rabbit (lower lap) out of the exisisting click lock mechaism.... and a matching top lap out of your last piece...

Sorta have to look at it.... Would be easier with a router table... but you can probably do it with a good table saw.


(With older Pergo... which was a TnG product... I used alot of splines and TnG cuts to fit Pergo (or any floating product) that runs through many rooms or center islands and bars.... as you can not measure/design out exact fits around so many obstructions or different size rooms.)

Good luck....

PS:: In a pinch, where aesthetics nor foot trafic is concerned, (like under a kitchen toe kick) I've put thin shims straddling both pieces and butt glued them together with epoxy or contact cement (the backside of formica samples work great as thin shims.) You maintain floating for expansion issues, and it will lay flat.

Again... Good luck
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:04 AM   #6
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Do you have a hammer tap/pull bar (one of these: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Pro...18-8/100390108)? Go to the other side of the room and tap the whole thing till you split the difference of the gaps on both sides of the room (it WILL move as long as elsewhere in the floor it isn't tight to a wall or under door jambs). Also, are you using base shoe or real quarter round? Quarter round is wider and can be up to 3/4" standard.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:13 AM   #7
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Also, although the instruction usually say otherwise, I've gotten a piece ripped as small as 3/8" to lock on the last row. Rip on table saw, set in groove at angle, then using a hammer and something to tap with (nail set, screw driver etc) tap the piece down til it locks.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:57 AM   #8
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Do what wewantutopia said. The reason for not connecting a thin piece is because it will not lay flat causing it to pop out. If you are installing 1/4 round you will eliminate the problem. I have also used a little glue where odd or small pieces go together with success.

Last edited by RegeSullivan; 02-10-2015 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #9
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thanks for the quick help guys. I went to a local tool rental place and rented a Crain ( brand name ) undercut saw to undercut my baseboard about 1/4". I am also only about 6 blocks from a small lumber co that does mill work. I am going to have them rip my long boards on the tongue side so they will lock in. With the cut strip being a little over 1/2" with the tongue, I will be able to slide it in the undercut, put the previous strip down, and slide the cut strip with the tongue in to lock it and still have room for expansion. Tested with a 6" scrap piece and it work out fine. Thanks again for all your help. Gary
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:35 PM   #10
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I know this reply is not going to do you much good now but it may help others in the future. Whenever a small piece is going to be needed at the end of a row, use wood glue and glue two pieces together making an extra wide board and let it dry. Now you can rip it on a table saw as close to the joint as needed. You don't need to worry about staggering the joints at this point as they will be too close to a wall to matter.
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