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Old 05-22-2020, 07:17 PM   #16
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


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Why not just Phillips head screws?

In my experience, phillips screws strip out far easier than square drive or torx, so I only use them for short screws (2" or less) in places where I can put some pressure down or forward on the driver. For longer screws and/or tight spots where I can't push the driver into the screw, I much prefer the square or torx, which require very little force to keep them seated.


The screws made for cement board and tile backer board I've only seen available in square drive.
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Old 05-22-2020, 09:06 PM   #17
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


If you are going to screw the ply down, just go buy some deck screws. More strength than basic Philips head drywall screws, designed to pull the boards together, easier to start.

And no screws for tile backer board do not come only in Philips. But they are also not made for fastening plywood. They are designed to cut the head into the backer board and bury said head. As to Philips, rock-ones are star drive and work very well.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:10 PM   #18
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


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If you are going to screw the ply down, just go buy some deck screws.

Careful with that; most "deck screws" are what are called "trim head", which means the heads are small - not the thing for plywood. They're also usually coated, and therefore fairly expensive. Typical torx (star) drive "construction screws" are what I would recommend.


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More strength than basic Philips head drywall screws,

I'll agree with that. Drywall screws are thinner, more brittle, and rust away quicker than you can say, "oops, I dribbled".
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:15 PM   #19
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


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Originally Posted by HotRodx10 View Post
Careful with that; most "deck screws" are what are called "trim head", which means the heads are small - not the thing for plywood. They're also usually coated, and therefore fairly expensive. Typical torx (star) drive "construction screws" are what I would recommend.





I'll agree with that. Drywall screws are thinner, more brittle, and rust away quicker than you can say, "oops, I dribbled".
Not sure where you live.... it around New England most deck screws are NOT trim head. They DO lack threads near the top to allow them to pull tight.....but they are NOT trim head Ron
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:30 PM   #20
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


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Not sure where you live..around New England most deck screws are NOT trim head..

I'm in Wyoming; the big box stores do carry standard head deck screws, but also a larger selection of the trim head ones. Maybe things are different back east. In some areas, maybe not all, it's something to watch out for. I wouldn't spend the extra $$ for deck screws over construction screws for a subfloor if I had to buy them, but it they're handy (and they have standard heads), they'll work just as well.
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:42 PM   #21
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


If your framing is 16” on center, the new floor is 3/4” thick hardwood, it will be perpendicular to the joists and nailed to the joists you don’t need to add sub flooring. My early 1900s house has oak flooring over the joists with no subfloor, it was common back then. There is no softness between joists; you could not tell there is no subfloor by walking on it. It Is in great shape after 3 sandings that I know of over 110 years. Will that see you through?
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Last edited by Old Thomas; 05-23-2020 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:17 AM   #22
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Re: Need tongue/groove subfloor if placing over old subfloor?


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Originally Posted by Old Thomas View Post
If your framing is 16” on center, the new floor is 3/4” thick hardwood, it will be perpendicular to the joists and nailed to the joists you don’t need to add sub flooring. My early 1900s house has oak flooring over the joists with no subfloor, it was common back then. There is no softness between joists; you could not tell there is no subfloor by walking on it. It Is in great shape after 3 sandings that I know of over 110 years. Will that see you through?
Wow. What's the thickness of your finished oak flooring?

My floor squeaks like crazy, there's spongy spots, and low spots. House was built in 1954, the original subfloor is only 5/16".
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