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Old 06-15-2018, 06:59 PM   #1
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Laminate Floor Gap


I ripped out my carpet and installed a laminate floor. My wife/boss made me, I just wanted new carpet The floor came out great, but after two weeks I have notice a small gap in two of the boards. Every other section and boards are good to go. Gaps are about the size of a credit card which is not big at all. My question is, should I be worried about it opening up anymore? The laminate is called Colfax by Traffic Master. Bought it at Home Depot. I read that floors expand and contract, and left plenty of space from the edges to wall. The small gaps are at the door entry and nowhere else.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:25 PM   #2
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


I know it was acclimated for at least 72 hours and you did a great job on the molding. In order to hopefully fix it you will need to pull the laminate to itself from the edge, meaning your nice molding will need to be pulled up. You will need to use a pull bar tool, placing the short end over the gap at the edge near the wall and tapping on the higher end until the flooring seats itself.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-...18-8/100390108
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:05 PM   #3
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Was this click lock or TnG and should have been glued.......
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:40 PM   #4
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Thanks Chandler, I figured I would have to cut my trim boards just needed someone to tell me hehe. It is a click lock system and I read only to glue in spots where I couldn't lock in the boards. I have a nice dremel oscillating tool and can cut the boards. I have a pull bar like in the link already. My wife says is not a big deal, but I can see the small gaps and will bother me everyday.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:41 PM   #5
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


If it is only the size of a credit card, I would say let it ride and monitor it. Either you put it together like that, which happens, or else the floor maybe settled in to the shape of the subfloor and that opened it up. You can try dabbing a little dark stain into the crack, or even a black sharpie, to make it less noticeable.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:56 PM   #6
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Thx Marson, I guess I can do that. Its so small of a gap too, I know it wasn't there when I installed it.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:07 AM   #7
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Rigo...... I probably have not installed your exact model of click lock, but normally there is not that much play in a click lock system.....

I've never used a pull bar on a click lock sytem, and can't really see that being any permenent type fix....

Is it level... a flat plane actually.... where that gap is.....?
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:23 PM   #8
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Yes sir, I was lucky that my subloor was really level. I have 3/4 plywood under the 12 mm laminate planks. The two small gaps are at the entry where the transition piece is at. After thinking about it last night. Im gonna remove the transition piece and try to hit the edge with something to see if it budges. Unless you guys think thats a bad idea?
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:22 PM   #9
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Removing the transition strip will ruin the transition strip, so you will need to buy a new one. Hitting the flooring on the end won't help the side gap, so I say not.
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:51 PM   #10
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Either way, the molding on the walls will need to come off. On opposite sides of the room by the way. On the side that the pull bar is going, you need to make sure that there is enough room to insert the pull bar. On the opposite side, you have to block the entire floor temporarliy so that the floor will not move when you use your pry bar.


Another option I have employed is to remove one side of molding, block off that side solid so the floor will not move. The, using a pair of non-marring shoes, stomp at the floor in the direction of the blocked wall. If you hit it hard enough on your stomp, it may engage. I usually jump and stomp with both feet at the same time for more force.


I second, do not hit the laminate from the area of the transition piece, you will do nothing but blow out a chip of laminate and have to pull up the whole floor to replace.
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:00 AM   #11
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Crizzi and Chandler.... Have you ever had to use a pull bar on clicklock... or in other words, have you ever found click lock with that kinda play in it....

and if that play is in this clicklock, it must be prone to do so at every joint... so how do you stop it and keep a floating floor.....

it'll just keep occuring if you can kick it in place.... and if you can kick it in place... it;s just going to separate at another joint.... NO????
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:04 AM   #12
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Rigo... Does that separation extend the full length of that boards run....(is each succesive board in that run separated.)

Did you do the job.... or could that be a bad spline joint the flooring company did in order to work both directions.... ?

Who's the manufacturer.... who'd ya buy it from (lumber liquidators.... what was the sqft price....

I've just never seen clicklock with that much play in it... and if it extends the full length of the run... there has to be that much play in all the boards... No???

And floating floors do expand and contract with temp and humidity etc.... won't it just keep repeating no matter what you do.....???

Good luck.... I just find this confusing, unless you got some bad manufactered flooring with crappy tolerances.....

(PS: I'm not a flooring contractor, but I've put in a fair amount of floating and other flooring...... both clicklock/TnG glue-up/and clicklock glue down.....)
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:11 AM   #13
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Crizzi and Chandler.... Have you ever had to use a pull bar on clicklock... or in other words, have you ever found click lock with that kinda play in it....

and if that play is in this clicklock, it must be prone to do so at every joint... so how do you stop it and keep a floating floor.....

it'll just keep occuring if you can kick it in place.... and if you can kick it in place... it;s just going to separate at another joint.... NO????
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:57 AM   #14
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Quote:
Have you ever had to use a pull bar on clicklock
Not if it was installed properly. I only offered it as a solution as opposed to removing the entire floor. Laminate has a poor click lock system. You generally have to tap the end of a plank to the adjoining end, but they have the same lock, so it is feasible to tap the sides as well. Getting into better engineered flooring, that won't be possible as the click lock feature is more pronounced and you almost can't leave a crack.
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:39 AM   #15
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Re: Laminate Floor Gap


Quote:
Originally Posted by chandler48 View Post
Not if it was installed properly. I only offered it as a solution as opposed to removing the entire floor. Laminate has a poor click lock system. You generally have to tap the end of a plank to the adjoining end, but they have the same lock, so it is feasible to tap the sides as well. Getting into better engineered flooring, that won't be possible as the click lock feature is more pronounced and you almost can't leave a crack.
Larry...... YEP..... bet that's it........

(Just an issue I'd never encountered)

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