Kitchen Tile On Uneven Floor & Floor Heating - Flooring - Page 4 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 02-23-2014, 11:23 PM   #46
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 81
Rewards Points: 125
Default


I am going to proceed with tiling. The tiles are porcelain are 20x20 and made in Italy.

I was trying to find the arrows under each tile that shows the direction tiling should be done, but these tiles do not have arrows. Is there a specific direction the tile should be laid?

Should I have the tiling start on the end of the kitchen where I embedded the sensor wires into the hardibacker? I am following manufactures specification and having thinset over the floor warming mats and tile on top.

If someone wants to list the steps to tiling large porcelain tile would be helpful.
badsha is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-24-2014, 03:12 PM   #47
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Quote:
I was trying to find the arrows under each tile that shows the direction tiling should be done, but these tiles do not have arrows. Is there a specific direction the tile should be laid?
Only a very small percentage of all tiles have an arrow indicating the direction they came off the production line. I have found that most tiles with arrows, are the ones that have a cheap-looking printed pattern under the glaze. By coincidence most I've seen were made in Spain.

Your higher quality (hopefully) Italian tiles are probably also rectified and not stenciled, and may have no direction.

Those are large tiles, hope the floor is flat and you're using the right mortar. In your post #1 you said the tiles were not flush with each other. Doesn't sound like that has been addressed.

It would have been nice to know specifically which mortar and hopefully the hacks.....ahhh ahhhh, the contractor is using the right trowel to gauge the mortar. Any back buttering going on there?

The best way to make a floor like this flat is to use SLC (self leveling compound) over the approved floor. Usually then the CBU isn't necessary. I don't recall if we got to this stage.

Anyone have Q's? We're still here.

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JazMan For This Useful Post:
Live_Oak (02-24-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-24-2014, 06:16 PM   #48
Member
 
firehawkmph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,361
Rewards Points: 2,550
Default


Interesting thread Jaz. Curious as to how it turns out.
Mike Hawkins
firehawkmph is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-24-2014, 08:24 PM   #49
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Quote:
Interesting thread Jaz. Curious as to how it turns out.
Mike Hawkins
It is, there's lots of lessons to learn here.

I hope Badsha doesn't get upset at me, he shouldn't. In the end the contractor isn't up to par, he's a victim. Honestly most contractor remodelers aren't specialists in many fields, especially when it comes to tiling. They just do it cuz by the time the job fails, it's a couple years later and it's easy to weasel out of repairs. They' often blame it of settling or wood shrinkage.

Badsha, please keep us informed and send pics of every stage. You'll be happy you did one day.

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 10:18 PM   #50
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 81
Rewards Points: 125
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
Only a very small percentage of all tiles have an arrow indicating the direction they came off the production line. I have found that most tiles with arrows, are the ones that have a cheap-looking printed pattern under the glaze. By coincidence most I've seen were made in Spain.

Your higher quality (hopefully) Italian tiles are probably also rectified and not stenciled, and may have no direction.

Those are large tiles, hope the floor is flat and you're using the right mortar. In your post #1 you said the tiles were not flush with each other. Doesn't sound like that has been addressed.

It would have been nice to know specifically which mortar and hopefully the hacks.....ahhh ahhhh, the contractor is using the right trowel to gauge the mortar. Any back buttering going on there?

The best way to make a floor like this flat is to use SLC (self leveling compound) over the approved floor. Usually then the CBU isn't necessary. I don't recall if we got to this stage.

Anyone have Q's? We're still here.

Jaz
I was wrong there was an arrow for the direction of laying tile. I will try to take a photo of the bottom of the tile tomorrow. The tile is Made in Italy, says right on the tile.

I am using Versabond thinset, polymer modified, white that comes in 50lb bags. I am having the tile layer set it for minimum of 5 mins. The trowel is 1/4", some have said to use 1/2" trowel, but the 1/4" is working pretty well.

The floor is much more level than before and there was no teetering of the tiles when we laid out the pattern.

Some of the tiles were buttered, but the tile layer put thinset/mortar on the corners and middle of the tile. He was checking the level each time he put down a tile. Looks like its going to be a 3 day job.

I am following the floor warming mats' manufacturers instructions on laying tile. The manufacturer has suggested several methods, one of which is buttering the back of the tile and then laying it down.

Another point of contention is the dishwasher. The dishwasher will have to be put in before the final tiles go in, essentially locking the dishwasher in. I am going to remove the feet or at least screw them flush and shim up the dishwasher to the countertop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
It is, there's lots of lessons to learn here.

I hope Badsha doesn't get upset at me, he shouldn't. In the end the contractor isn't up to par, he's a victim. Honestly most contractor remodelers aren't specialists in many fields, especially when it comes to tiling. They just do it cuz by the time the job fails, it's a couple years later and it's easy to weasel out of repairs. They' often blame it of settling or wood shrinkage.

Badsha, please keep us informed and send pics of every stage. You'll be happy you did one day.

Jaz
Jaz not upset at all. But I feel much more confident with this tile guy. I have been taking photos every step of the way. I will post photos when I can organize them properly.

I agree with you on contractors, they just do the job and leave. It's not like they come back every 5-10 years to check on the job they did. The previous contractor that started all this, blamed the tile lippage on the uneven floor and said there wasn't really a way to fix it.

This new contractor/tile guy suggested laying down a layer of mortar. I opted not to because the kitchen floor would be too high. Right now with the tile installed it is nearly 1/4" higher than the rest of the house.
badsha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 10:57 PM   #51
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


OK, 1/4" higher than the rest of the house is nothing. If you want all the floors to be the same height, install the same floors in all the rooms.

Variations up to 3/4 - one inch are not a problem in residential jobs. You use a transition threshold in the doorway. People in your home will get used to it. It's not like a commercial setting where there's strangers all the time and if they stub a toe you're in court fast.

Your biggest problem was that the base cabinets and top were installed before the floor was preped and planned.

Do you not have any lippage now? How is the tile setting going?

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 12:32 PM   #52
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 81
Rewards Points: 125
Default


Lippage is extremely minimal, maybe 1/16". I ran a level across multiple tiles and the level was not blocked. The hard part will be putting in the dishwasher and then tiling it in.

I laid ramboard on the set tiles to minimize damage and to protect floor warming mats.
badsha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 12:43 PM   #53
Member
 
Jb1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Chicago-area, il
Posts: 126
Rewards Points: 87
Default


Glad it's coming together for you. Can't wait to see the pics. The good thing about this "community" is we all get to learn from each other's projects, including successes/failures and changed plans, and have experts guide us.
Jb1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 04:57 PM   #54
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by badshah
Some of the tiles were buttered, but the tile layer put thinset/mortar on the corners and middle of the tile.
OMG, I missed you saying that yesterday. Add still another screw-up. 5 spot on a floor? I would have locked the doors on that guy.

1/4" trowel with 20" porcelain tiles. Have you checked for thin set transfer occasionally? Thought so.

Versabond. That's a regular entry level mortar, decent but a cheap one. You're supposed to used a medium-bed mortar for larger tiles. What you're using will bond, but......................?

Later....

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 05:32 PM   #55
Member
 
Jb1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Chicago-area, il
Posts: 126
Rewards Points: 87
Default


So I'm guessing if he were to later tap on the tile with a coin or other object he'll hear plenty of hollow spots.
Jb1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 07:19 PM   #56
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jb1234
So I'm guessing if he were to later tap on the tile with a coin or other object he'll hear plenty of hollow spots.
Exactly. You don't use the 5 spot method on a floor, ever. Then he's dealing with 1/4" trowel with 20" tiles on a floor that is not perfect.

I hate having to tell people about all the mistake the professional hack is making. I can guess what some readers are thinking when I do that.

On the other hand, that's what I'm here to do, yell at our readers and management too!

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 07:23 PM   #57
Member
 
firehawkmph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,361
Rewards Points: 2,550
Default


I wouldn't worry about it Jaz. I appreciate your comments. I always like to read them to make sure I'm doing things right. Most of the stuff your telling them is info that's readily available either by a simple internet search, or talking to the reps at a legitimate tile warehouse.
Mike Hawkins
firehawkmph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 07:51 PM   #58
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Yes I know Mike, thanks.

But not many people that come here end up at legitimate tile warehouses. The nice people at the big box stores just don't know what round they're in. Not their fault, cuz the management won't hire pros that know. My comments refer to the tile department. Plus the customers don't know what they don't know to ask.

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 09:13 PM   #59
Member
 
Jb1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Chicago-area, il
Posts: 126
Rewards Points: 87
Default


Jaz, I've been reading you for a long time and I credit your knowledge base with me getting things done right. I even recognized when I would be in over my head and hired a pro to do some of the work who I trusted. And from having the proper knowledge base, I knew he was doing it right. When myself and the wife demo hammered off 600 sq ft of tile from our slab and then had to use a grinder to get all the thinset off I knew I was spent. But knowing how and doing the demo saved us a ton.
Jb1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2014, 10:37 PM   #60
Tileguy
 
JazMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,039
Rewards Points: 780
Default


Jb,

Thank you for the kind words. Stay with us.

Jaz
__________________
TILE GUY - retired- TROY, MI - Method & Product suitability consulting.

MARBLE from ITALY & GREECE -PERLATO-PERLATINO-BOTTICINO-THASSOS-SIVEC-VOLAKAS-CALACATTA- NAXOS-Slabs-Tiles-Custom containers shipped to you - [email protected]
JazMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
replacing wall tile on uneven surface johnpaul8379 Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 2 02-22-2011 04:26 PM
Can I install ceramic tile onto an uneven and un-level concrete floor? Integraoligist General DIY Discussions 17 02-03-2011 09:43 PM
tile over tile kitchen countertop greg122 Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 2 10-21-2010 11:00 PM
Tile Membrane behind kitchen back-splash? ChrisDIY Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 4 04-29-2010 12:08 PM
need contractor advice for laying kitchen tile ng622 Flooring 5 12-07-2005 11:28 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts