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Old 10-16-2017, 02:35 PM   #1
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Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


I have Shaw 12" x 24" luxury vinyl tiles. 10' x 10' kitchen. First time with the luxury vinyl.

What is the best way to put down the 7/16 OSB, then 5mm TriPLY, self leveling compound, and then tile? Using Shaw 200 TPS glue with 1/16 trowel.

Should I level with the SLC on the osb before adding the underlayment? Or staple down the underlayment and then the SLC?

The floor has been stripped down to the original 3/4" thick 5.5" wide diagonal planks. There are noticeable hills and dips. The planks have been screwed to the joists with 2" SPAX construction screws.

My plan was to install the 7/16 OSB perpendicular to the joist and screw down to the sub floor with 1.5" SPAX construction screws. Screws placed every 8" across edge and 12" in field (but not into joists). 1/8" spaced between boards.

Underlayment will be added perpendicular to OSB and stapled (1.5" ?) with a 1/4" crown stapler every 3" edge and 6" in the field.

Thank you.
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Old 10-16-2017, 06:11 PM   #2
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


If you are installing new OSB and a new underlayment of flooring grade plywood (not luan), I don't really see the need for SLC unless you are trying to get rid of a slope. It should be fairly flat if you staple the underlayment to the OSB.
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Old 10-16-2017, 07:07 PM   #3
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


Somebody tell me how installing more osb & underlayment ply is gonna remove "There are noticeable hills and dips."

The new layers will improve the dips while making the hills larger. He needs SLC if the subfloor can't be fixed before the OSB. Got a specific SLC you're planning to use?

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Old 10-16-2017, 08:03 PM   #4
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I have not looked at specific SLC yet. Any recommendations?
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:20 AM   #5
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


Quote:
Somebody tell me how installing more osb & underlayment ply is gonna remove "There are noticeable hills and dips."
Fix the hills and dips first. IMO SLC is a last resort. Fix the construction first or the SLC will only crack and become useless later on as the hills and dips expand and contract with the building.
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:06 AM   #6
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


I plan to work on the floor this weekend. I see how flat the sub floor is in relation to the hills and dips and will fix what I can on the surface.

I purchased "Henry 565" SLC (with the 564 primer) from my trusty local Lowe's. If there are any imperfections after I put down the top underlayment then I will use it to smooth out the floor.

I am not so worried about a true level floor as I am a flat floor. If I had to spend time leveling my house I would be here until retirement. Not sure what is worse, chasing down all the holes to caulk to leveling and plumbing this place.
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Old 10-20-2017, 01:23 PM   #7
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


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Originally Posted by rjcrust2015
My plan was to install the 7/16 OSB perpendicular to the joist and screw down to the sub floor
I'm not so thrilled about 7/16" OSB, but ok.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjcrust2015
Underlayment will be added perpendicular to OSB and stapled (1.5" ?) with a 1/4" crown stapler every 3" edge and 6" in the field.
NO. Underlayment goes perpendicular to the joists just like every other layer. Just offset the sheets both ways.

Better check that Triply meets the requirements for the SLC. Doesn't sound like it does since it's supposed to be Exposure 1 rated.

That 564 primer says it's for concrete.

Remember if you try to make the floor flat and you have a high spot, you will have to fill the entire area until it reaches the hilltop. Easier to lower the hill than to raise the valley.

Jaz
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:35 PM   #8
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Re: Installing 12x25 LVT tile from original subfloor


Follow up - Here is what I did. Once completed, there were minimal dips and bumps. "Overall" the floor is level, where it is not, the slope flows away from the sink and dishwasher. The hills and valleys ended up being in areas where there were cabinets or appliances and I felt the need to so the SLC was not worth the effort on this particular project.

- Screwed original subfloor to joists using 2 " Spax construction screws and hammered down any of the original nails. All squeaks were gone.
- Added 7/16 OSB using 1 1/4 Spax construction screws perpendicular to the joists (1/8" space between sheets and 1/4" from walls) every 6 - 8 "
- Added 1/4" ply using 1 1/2 narrow crown staples every 4 to 6" perpendicular to joists but not lined up with OSB in order to overlap seams
- Glued the luxury vinyl using Roberts 2310 adhesive and 1/16" trowel
- Spread the entire floor and began laying tile around 50 minutes from the start (helps to use 3/16 T spacers when doing the brick layout
- Used the Tek vinyl tile grout from Lowes

We selected vinyl now for he young ones running around. They are not supposed to be in the kitchen, but this was the choice over ceramic. Hoping it lasts till they are old enough to replace with ceramic. My only concern is the grout cracking. I have not lived in the home long so I don't know the full history of settling, humidity, etc. in this 1950's home. Worse case, I rip up and do it again. Helps when the kitchen is small
Thank you all for the help.
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