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Old 05-27-2014, 04:19 PM   #1
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How to fix sub floor dip???


Hello all,

1st problem:

My sub-floor as a 1/4" dip and about 2.5' in width and maybe in 5' in length in one spot. Can anyone please recommend a solution for this but without cutting the sub floor so I can put hardwood floor. A guy suggested that I could stack up the dip spot of oil paper then gradually step down to even it out.

2nd problem:

The general area in the dinning/kitchen has liquid nail left from the previous owner used to glue down the 1/2" particle board so when I removed the board it left a big chuck of glue everywhere that I can't scrap it. Do you guy think I should rent a hardwood floor sander and sand the whole floor then lay hardwood on it?

Thank you everyone in advance!
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:04 PM   #2
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Is the ceiling below open, can you see the joists? One of the joist is low and could be fixed from below. But if the ceiling is dry walled, layers of tarpaper as you described is a common alternative. Use the same as you're gonna install for the hardwood installation.

I can't imagine how a gob of construction adhesive could give you so much trouble. How are you trying to remove it?

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Old 05-28-2014, 09:27 AM   #3
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I'd take a long handled scraper to it first and then maybe rent a power scraper. You'd wreck the hell out of a sander trying to grind down gobs of glue.

You'd be surprised how much better one of those long handled scrapers is than just a hand-held one (or a ruined putty knife).
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:34 AM   #4
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Chisel or scraper for that adhesive. It will just gum up sandpaper and cost you $$. And depending on whether you are installing the hardwood across the joists or perpendicular, that 1/4" gap could be a nothing. Ron
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:27 AM   #5
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I'm planning to install the hardwood in the direction parallel to the level.

I haven't open up the ceiling below to look at the joints but I will probably do that soon.

I was planning to cut a section of the sub floor of the dip section and replace it with a new one but I am afraid that the I will lose the tongue and groove of the plywood edges and it could weaken the sub floor and create squeaking noises down the road.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:10 PM   #6
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Self leveling concrete?
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:43 PM   #7
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It would be helpful to know what type of new flooring you intend to install. Is it a "floating floor" product, does it get nailed or stapled, does it get glued down??? What the heck are you doing?
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:08 PM   #8
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Sorry guys. I'm going to install unfinished hardwood. 2.5"x.75".
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:25 PM   #9
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Okay so basically it gets nailed. That pretty much eliminates the use of any cementuous floor filler product.

Now you are back to shims between the flooring material and the subfloor, or, between the floor joists and the subfloor. May be time to wreck the ceiling down below.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:27 PM   #10
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what type of shim products should i use? composite one or the one use for doors?
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcdinh View Post
what type of shim products should i use? composite one or the one use for doors?
That would depend on what location you intend to use the shims.

Between the flooring and subfloor the felt paper would work.
Between the subfloor and joists then wood or composite door shims would be needed.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:21 AM   #12
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It will be depend on the locations that where you are using that.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:47 AM   #13
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just stack tar paper. It will work and it's a commonly-accepted practice.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #14
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Better check the recommendations of the floor your installing if it's ok to put felt or tar paper down..... It is not the same as Kraft or rosin paper.
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