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Old 02-03-2016, 10:57 PM   #1
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Hardwood floor peeling


How should I address this board that's peeling? Just bought the house in November, first time having reel hardwood.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:32 PM   #2
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Hope that you have some left over material from the original install. Matching it is the biggest concern if it's prefinished, but replacing it isn't that hard.
Can you hunt around the house to see if there is some left?
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:33 PM   #3
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Yeah, previous owner left a dozen or so boards
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:58 PM   #4
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Excellent! The fix is pretty easy, and only requires a few basic tools.
The easiest fix will be to find one that's the same length.
Removing the damaged board requires two parallel cuts along the length of the damaged piece with a skill saw that's been set to a cutting depth equal to the thickness of your flooring.
Finish the cuts to the end of the board with a chisel, or oscillating multi tool if you have one.
Pull the waste from the center of the cut board, then pry the rest out as necessary. Remove any errant staples or flooring cleats, and any damaged underlayment (rosin paper, felt impregnated kraft paper, felt, what have you...).
Remove the bottom part of the groove on the piece of flooring you plan to install and then apply a healthy application of wood glue to the inside of the remaining groove section and place some on the sub floor that you've exposed as well.
Place the new piece in place, tap it in if you have to, then apply a bit of weight to it overnight.
Remove weight, stand back, pat self on back.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:22 AM   #5
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That was the inside of the tree as we view growth rings on plain sawed lumber and grain lifting sometimes happens with the incorrect side up. Very common on wood siding on houses where it looks as if the paint failed when it wasn't paint failure at all.

With the replacement piece look at the end grain and put that which was the outside of the tree up and the inside down. If the replacement lumber piece was quarter sawed or rift sawed it makes no difference as the growth rings will be near 90 to the face.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asevereid View Post
Excellent! The fix is pretty easy, and only requires a few basic tools.
The easiest fix will be to find one that's the same length.
Removing the damaged board requires two parallel cuts along the length of the damaged piece with a skill saw that's been set to a cutting depth equal to the thickness of your flooring.
Finish the cuts to the end of the board with a chisel, or oscillating multi tool if you have one.
Pull the waste from the center of the cut board, then pry the rest out as necessary. Remove any errant staples or flooring cleats, and any damaged underlayment (rosin paper, felt impregnated kraft paper, felt, what have you...).
Remove the bottom part of the groove on the piece of flooring you plan to install and then apply a healthy application of wood glue to the inside of the remaining groove section and place some on the sub floor that you've exposed as well.
Place the new piece in place, tap it in if you have to, then apply a bit of weight to it overnight.
Remove weight, stand back, pat self on back.
Nice, seems simple enough. just standard wood glue will suffice? Thanks

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Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
That was the inside of the tree as we view growth rings on plain sawed lumber and grain lifting sometimes happens with the incorrect side up. Very common on wood siding on houses where it looks as if the paint failed when it wasn't paint failure at all.

With the replacement piece look at the end grain and put that which was the outside of the tree up and the inside down. If the replacement lumber piece was quarter sawed or rift sawed it makes no difference as the growth rings will be near 90 to the face.
Thanks, The wood floor is in the entire house besides the two baths, and it looks great. The floor planks do have some slight height variation so you can feel it when walking bare feet, but not enough to stub your toe. I'm assuming this is a prefinished floor for that reason. there are also some areas with some gaps between planks, large enough where i can see the tongue and groove.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:45 PM   #7
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That looks like engineered oak, do you know the thickness and confirm that it's built with plies of wood or a solid piece?

This was likely caused by unstable humidity levels. Your location and weather conditions will be helpful..Are you now in a heating season, what is the humidity level?

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Old 02-04-2016, 09:14 PM   #8
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No offense to anyone it that has nothing to do with solid oak, end grain or anything other than refinished flooring de laminating at the top layer. Ron
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Old 02-05-2016, 06:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
That looks like engineered oak, do you know the thickness and confirm that it's built with plies of wood or a solid piece?

This was likely caused by unstable humidity levels. Your location and weather conditions will be helpful..Are you now in a heating season, what is the humidity level?

Jaz
The PO had the house built in 2012 and kept every receipt.




Northeastern North Carolina, Littleton to be exact. Supposed to be heating season. Two weeks ago we got snow, this past week its been in the 70's, today its back in the 30's. I do have a gas fireplace and the messed up board is 5ft from that. Current humidity in house according to my t-stat is 44%
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No offense to anyone it that has nothing to do with solid oak, end grain or anything other than refinished flooring de laminating at the top layer. Ron
No offense, but please reword your opinion so we can understand it.
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Old 02-05-2016, 01:50 PM   #10
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The #1 pic didn't look like 2,25" solid strip, but that's what it is. It's possible that piece was already cracked when installed and stress caused it to split.

Jaz
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