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Old 02-03-2015, 04:05 PM   #1
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Finding non-flat spots on Large Concret Floor


Hi All,

Is there a simple way to find the non-flat spots on a large concrete floor?
The plan is to tile the floor afterward.

Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:46 PM   #2
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A large squeegee and water would give an initial indication where the high and low areas are. It looks as if 30" are available but if you would like larger you may need to build one with a straight edge and rubber weather stripping etc.
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:54 PM   #3
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An 8' straight edge comes to mind.
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Old 02-04-2015, 12:23 AM   #4
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325,

A straight edge 8-10 ft. long if you're alone. Make sure it's 100% straight. A string with a good helper works good too. They also sell laser devices for the job.

What kind of flooring will you be installing? You say tile, which to us means ceramic, right? What size, do you know yet? Tell us more.

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Old 02-04-2015, 05:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
325, A straight edge 8-10 ft. long if you're alone. Make sure it's 100% straight. A string with a good helper works good too. They also sell laser devices for the job. What kind of flooring will you be installing? You say tile, which to us means ceramic, right? What size, do you know yet? Tell us more. Jaz
I have seen many different sizes. I'm thinking 12" x 12".
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:19 PM   #6
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So, how un flat is the floor? It needs to be in plane within " in 10' and 1/16" in 12". Bigger, glossy tiles require an even flatter substrate.

Jaz
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
So, how un flat is the floor? It needs to be in plane within " in 10' and 1/16" in 12". Bigger, glossy tiles require an even flatter substrate. Jaz
So, using 8' straight edge, do I need to overlap the area as I check for flatness? By how much?
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:24 PM   #8
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Yes you have to overlap. Get some good knee pads and set the straight edge in every direction possible. Move it a foot or so to the next area. Keep doing this until you're satisfied. You should be able to get a good idea by just looking at first. Pay special attention near edges and around pipe and poles.

How old is the floor? Any floor drains. cracks? A good cheap straight edge is a #1 1x4" hardwood. 1x3 is too flimsy.

Jaz
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
Yes you have to overlap. Get some good knee pads and set the straight edge in every direction possible. Move it a foot or so to the next area. Keep doing this until you're satisfied. You should be able to get a good idea by just looking at first. Pay special attention near edges and around pipe and poles. How old is the floor? Any floor drains. cracks? A good cheap straight edge is a #1 1x4" hardwood. 1x3 is too flimsy. Jaz
It's a 10 yrs old concrete basement floor. It has a couple 1/16" cracks that I plan to fill with concrete powder and spray them with water.

There is an area with pipes and sub-pump, but I won't be tiling that area. There is also a full bathroom in which I will be tiling.

There is also support pole in the middle of the basement, and I will be tiling around it.

The total basement area is about 1100 sqft.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325
It has a couple 1/16" cracks that I plan to fill with concrete powder and spray them with water.
And that will do what? Waste of time, you're not painting the floor. If anything you need an uncoupling membrane or at least uncoupling mortar. And of course proper expansion joints at the perimeter and in the field.

Let us know the results when you get the straight edges and start checking the floor.

Jaz
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Old 02-07-2015, 04:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
And that will do what? Waste of time, you're not painting the floor. If anything you need an uncoupling membrane or at least uncoupling mortar. And of course proper expansion joints at the perimeter and in the field. Let us know the results when you get the straight edges and start checking the floor. Jaz
Thanks, Jaz! I read more about the uncoupling membrane or uncoupling mortar. I'm thinking about uncoupling mortar only. I hope that would be sufficient. Are there additional steps I need to do for tiling over a control join as I have one in the basement? Thanks!
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