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Old 10-23-2014, 08:27 PM   #1
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Closet Door and Laminate Flooring issue.


1st Closet Door.
I have a closet door that runs on a rail. The original install had a block of wood that the rail sits on. I painted the wood and will lay the rail on top. The laminate has a gap between the wood underneath the rail. What is the best way to cover this. I could use a quarter round, but there will be a small gap between the quarter round and rail (see photo).

2nd Closet Door.
This one is a bit harder. All I have is this plastic piece on a wood block. Carpet surrounded it before. I have no idea how to lay laminate so I have a way of installing the doors. Do I have to cut the laminate around that wood block? I could shape the block and paint it so it matches the wood somewhat, but I would think there is a more elegant solution possible.
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Closet Door and Laminate Flooring issue.-2014-10-23-18.17.33.jpg   Closet Door and Laminate Flooring issue.-2014-10-23-18.18.04.jpg   Closet Door and Laminate Flooring issue.-2014-10-19-14.54.00.jpg   Closet Door and Laminate Flooring issue.-2014-10-19-14.53.33.jpg  
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:15 AM   #2
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You actually should have taken the tracks/guides off and run the flooring past the closet thresholds then remounted the tracks. With the plastic guide you can still do that since the flooring is long ways. Just add a bit more flooring (the hanger wheels on both those door sets are adjustable for height).
With the end cuts on the door with the track though, you will have no choice but to mill a piece of quarter round or similar and use it for filler.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:00 AM   #3
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Not being overly experienced in laying laminate, I think I would at least try to make the piece of wood supporting the guide slightly smaller than the guide so that the guide acts like a piece of t-mold, if that makes sense.

By the door with the bottom rail I would use a muti-purpose reducer butted against the rail, such as you would use in a doorway.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:05 PM   #4
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You actually should have taken the tracks/guides off and run the flooring past the closet thresholds then remounted the tracks. With the plastic guide you can still do that since the flooring is long ways. Just add a bit more flooring (the hanger wheels on both those door sets are adjustable for height).
With the end cuts on the door with the track though, you will have no choice but to mill a piece of quarter round or similar and use it for filler.
So for the track i could have mounted it on top of the laminate? And just leave a gap underneath, and glue a small laminate piece to the cement floor?

For the plastic guide, i could just attach it to the floating floor? I couldnt find any photos which would make it easier to understand.
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:33 AM   #5
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No, do not screw through the laminate. That will prevent the laminate from expanding and contracting properly.
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Old 10-25-2014, 01:50 PM   #6
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No, do not screw through the laminate. That will prevent the laminate from expanding and contracting properly.
How would the plastic guide attach to the laminate? The sliding doors are heavy so the plastic guide has to be attached pretty well. If I glue it to the laminate, I think the doors will move the laminate.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:53 PM   #7
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The plastic guide does not attach to the laminate. See sketch below. This is what I would try. But, most important: do not screw through the laminate. It must be able to move.
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:00 PM   #8
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The plastic guide does not attach to the laminate. See sketch below. This is what I would try. But, most important: do not screw through the laminate. It must be able to move.
Nice diagram. So I need to cut the laminate around the plastic guide. That is what I thought. So gluing the block below the guide to the cement is not a problem? I have some liquid nails so hopefullt that is strong enough. I will then screw the plastic guide into the block. Thanks
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Old 10-28-2014, 04:32 PM   #9
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How would the plastic guide attach to the laminate? The sliding doors are heavy so the plastic guide has to be attached pretty well. If I glue it to the laminate, I think the doors will move the laminate.
The guides take no weight. Not even the tracks on your other door. They are there merely to keep the doors operating vertically without the bottoms swinging. Indeed the doors will work fine even with the tracks/guides completely removed.... which is something worth considering. (We do this a lot in ours tenant's units because they are not very good at cleaning the dirt out of the tracks which causes even more problems). The only disadvantage with the guides/tracks out is that the bottom of the doors will move in and out when you push on them. Other than that, they will hang straight and operate normally.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:13 PM   #10
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The guides take no weight. Not even the tracks on your other door. They are there merely to keep the doors operating vertically without the bottoms swinging. Indeed the doors will work fine even with the tracks/guides completely removed.... which is something worth considering. (We do this a lot in ours tenant's units because they are not very good at cleaning the dirt out of the tracks which causes even more problems). The only disadvantage with the guides/tracks out is that the bottom of the doors will move in and out when you push on them. Other than that, they will hang straight and operate normally.
I have a room where I didn't put the plastic guide back in place, and it works ok. The doors are smaller, so not sure what will happen with bigger doors.

For the metal track, the top part of the door does not attach to anything. The weight of the door sits on the track. I was thinking of just screwing the track to the piece of wood below it, and than not glue it to the floor (concrete). I was worried that the track may slip and fall out, but will check before I glue it down. If it works, than I might just leave it, without glue.
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