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Old 02-17-2019, 01:50 PM   #1
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Table saw safety


How do I stop the piece I just cut from a board from shooting at 100mph in the opposite direction?
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:56 PM   #2
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Re: Table saw safety


Make a push stick
https://www.google.ca/search?q=table...w=1536&bih=770
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:55 PM   #3
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Re: Table saw safety


Push it all the way past the blade with a push stick made of wood. Push stick should be wood so it won't damage the blade if you hit it.
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
Push it all the way past the blade with a push stick made of wood. Push stick should be wood so it won't damage the blade if you hit it.
Ok. I have a plastic one, but I was using it wrong.

This brings up another question...

How do you rip thin pieces of wood into 2 thinner pieces? Or should I just not do that?
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Old 02-17-2019, 03:13 PM   #5
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Re: Table saw safety


#1, You should be using a fence to keep the board straight.
#2, If it's a long piece you should be using an outfeed table or a second person to support the work.
If your ripping it the way your showing in that picture there's little chance it's going to kickback, I just feed it through faster at the end and that narrow piece should just fall to the side.
I also stand to the side incase it ever did.
Trying to recut a narrow strip without a zero clearance plate, push stick and a fence is a sure way to have bad things happen.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:00 PM   #6
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Re: Table saw safety


Where is your blade guard with kickback pawls?
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:33 PM   #7
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Re: Table saw safety


Quote:
How do you rip thin pieces of wood into 2 thinner pieces?
With my wooden push stick. Keep the blade just high enough to clear the stock you are cutting and let the push stick get sawn as you push. new pushers are easy to cut from scrap. I always have more than one pusher laying around. Here is one of the more used ones.


Table saw safety-pusher-005-small-.jpg
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:03 PM   #8
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Re: Table saw safety


I prefer the shoe style and it takes several to be certain I have a couple at each saw of different thicknesses. Some wood , some single masonite, some double thick masonite. Some look strange and have 2 heels.

When I was a kid I made them the more difficult way, but I later discovered to saw a length of extra heel stock and when it needed to go to the cobbler with a worn heel just rip that old heel off and glue a new heel on.
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:45 PM   #9
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Re: Table saw safety


Check to make sure your fence is parallel to the saw blade by making a careful measurement from one tooth to the fence at the front and again at the back. If the distance between the fence is narrower toward the back than the front, it will put you at a much higher risk of a kickback. The saw's owner's manual should have instructions for adjusting the fence if needed.

Kickback occurs for one of three reasons (in order of frequency):
Type 1: the piece being cut is allowed to rotate away from the fence and make contact with the rear of the blade lifting it off the table. This is prevented by keeping firm registration of the workplace against the fence through the duration of the cut (using a push stick for narrow rips). Use either a riving knife or blade guard with a splitter can do a lot to help prevent this as well. Featherboads can also help with tricky or highly repetitive cuts.

Type 2: bound stresses are relived as the work piece is cut causing it to pinch the blade. (Picture two boards that are warped is opposite directions which are glue to clamped to hold each other straight. You now run this is straight board though your saw and end up with two warped ones.) Again and riving knife or guard with a splitter will help prevent many of these. Also learn to recognize when the saw is bogging down and stop. You can try either cutting from the opposite direction or using wedges to hold the kerf open.

Type 3: the blade overheats and warps. This is rare and usually the result of using an incorrect blade to rip rather thick lumber (which your saw lacks the power to do).

I would strongly recommend the use of at least a riving knife if not a blade guard. Also recognize, there is always some possibility of a kickback occurring which is why you never reach behind the blade or stand in the "down range" area.
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Last edited by LanterDan; 02-17-2019 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:46 PM   #10
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Re: Table saw safety


https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pu...gateway&sr=8-5

I like this one. Yes a little expensive. But worth it if you save a finger.

Safer and you have more control over the piece you are cutting.

And like the other guy said. The kickback paws are on the blade guard.
But lets face it. Most people end up taking off the blade guard.
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:54 PM   #11
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Re: Table saw safety


I hate the kickback paws. They scratch the workpiece. I still usually use a guard. And there is really no reason not to at least use a riving knife. If the saw was purchased in the last few years (which it looks like) then I think that should have come with the saw.
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:57 PM   #12
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Re: Table saw safety


Also, not sure if that is what you were doing, but don't use the saw and ground like its pictured. Put it on a stand or table of some sort so you don't have to bend over. Not only is it better for you back, it will give you better balance in case something unexpected happens.
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Old 02-17-2019, 06:56 PM   #13
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Re: Table saw safety


You have trapped that off cut between the fence and the blade, that's why it's being propelled the opposite way.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:17 PM   #14
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Re: Table saw safety


Quote:
Originally Posted by Canarywood1 View Post
You have trapped that off cut between the fence and the blade, that's why it's being propelled the opposite way.

Good catch.

The pc between the saw blade and fence always gets pushed all the way through. Hence the need for a stick. The pc on the other side of the blade just falls off and moves over a little.


Try to set up your cuts so the widest pc of the board is the section getting pushed thru.


You said something about cutting thin slices and then slicing it again. A better approach is to cut the thin slices off a wider pc. Like meat on a meat slicer. Set it to the thinnest slice needed. Best not to attempt splitting already thin slices.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:55 PM   #15
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Re: Table saw safety


I donít use my table saw as much as Iíd like to, but when I do I also like using my new rockler featherboard that can lock to the table. Maybe wonít exactly address your issue but they are helpful and safer for ripping small pieces.


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