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Old 02-11-2020, 12:47 PM   #16
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


That's why I mentioned shooting the dark because we have no idea what you have in mind other than increasing a hole size.


I've ordered and installed several dozen flange bearings and the supplier seemed to know what a flange bearing was and shipped me just what's pictured in the link. Maybe you could inform the industry that the one in the link is a mounted bearing.
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Old 02-11-2020, 12:52 PM   #17
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


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Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
I've ordered and installed several dozen flange bearings and the supplier seemed to know what a flange bearing was and shipped me just what's pictured in the link. Maybe you could inform the industry that the one in the link is a mounted bearing.
Sarcasm noted.
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Old 02-11-2020, 01:15 PM   #18
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


As usual, when it comes from the opposite direction it's always sarcasm.
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:37 PM   #19
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


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Originally Posted by m_ridzon View Post
This is another great idea. Do you have any links for where I can buy one?
I normally buy from a local shop, but just do a google search for "boring head" and you will get lots of hits. Amazon seems to have a bunch. Don't forget to buy a tool bit too. I have probably been using the same tool bit for a decade, but a drill press is not going to have a fine feed handle for lowering the chuck. Might want to buy a spare tool bit.

You would likely still be best off to drill a big a hole as practical, and just doing final sizing with the boring head ---- 5/8 to 1-3/8 is a lot of steel to remove.


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Last edited by SPS-1; 02-11-2020 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:36 PM   #20
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


There are reduced shank drill bits that have a 1/4" shank and can drill a 5/8" diameter hole. Use this in place of the pilot bit in the hole saw arbor and attach a 1-3/8" bimetal hole saw.

There are tools to allow making large holes by attaching two hole saws back to back but I doubt that they would work with a 5/8" size hole saw.

Another approach is to make a 5/8" plug with a 1/4" hole and use it to keep the arbor with a hole saw in position.

Third option is to tack weld a steel 1/4" ID washer to the piece and then when you cut out the larger hole it will become part of the scrap piece.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:59 PM   #21
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


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Originally Posted by SPS-1 View Post
I normally buy from a local shop, but just do a google search for "boring head" and you will get lots of hits. Amazon seems to have a bunch. Don't forget to buy a tool bit too. I have probably been using the same tool bit for a decade, but a drill press is not going to have a fine feed handle for lowering the chuck. Might want to buy a spare tool bit.
I've looked up these boring heads online. I've never used one of these before. In the attached image, it seems the tool bit is normally placed in the holes I circled in red. What is the other hole (in blue) that I circled? Is it another place to mount the tool bit for versatility?

If I remove the tapered chuck from my drill press, will the tapered shank of the boring head fit right in? Or is boring shank's taper specific to big milling machines in a commercial shop?

Online, I see big and small boring heads (e.g., 2" head, 4" head, etc.).
How do you know the diameter range that a particular head can cut?
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Drilling Large Hole in Steel-boring-head.jpg  

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Old 02-12-2020, 01:56 PM   #22
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


That's a boring head for a milling machine. It will not fit the taper in your drill press.

It's not for making holes anyway....well not completely. You have to have a hole to start with before you use that.
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:58 PM   #23
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


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That's a boring head for a milling machine. It will not fit the taper in your drill press.

It's not for making holes anyway....well not completely. You have to have a hole to start with before you use that.
Hopefully, you read my first post, where I mentioned that I have an existing hole in the plate already. Additionally, someone earlier in the thread said these can be obtained with straight shanks, that could fit into a drill press chuck.
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Old 02-12-2020, 02:05 PM   #24
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


A 2" head would be fine for your purposes.

The blue hole is for mounting a tool bit horizontally, if you are doing a rather large hole.

The drill chuck is always going to have a Jacobs taper on it. Unless there is an another tapered adapter -- Jacobs taper is what you are looking at. What you will find online for the boring heads is mostly Morse taper or R8 taper for a milling machine. But you will also find 1/2" straight shank boring heads (as per screenprint posted earlier). I would suggest you get the straight shank and chuck it in your drill chuck. Makes the boring head stick out further than ideal, but I think thats the only option.

Cutting steel, on a drill press rather than mill, I think you want to be removing maybe .010" increments. So pre drill as big as practical.

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Old 02-13-2020, 01:17 PM   #25
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


@SPS-1 , what brand of boring head do you have? I found some straight shank on Amazon for <$100. They are listed as "generic" and packed in yellow cases. Reviews are so-so though; some good, some bad. I don't usually cheap-out on my tools, but I also don't blindly buy whatever is most expensive.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:23 PM   #26
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


Mine is no name - made in Taiwan.
If you want better quality, try KBC Tools - not sure if they are any different than the Amazon tools, but you can expect at least some decent quality from KBC.
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Old 02-14-2020, 11:20 PM   #27
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


I spend my days as a CNC machine shop owner. If you want to talk about moving metal, I do that on the daily. I will admit, I have never tried an offset boring head in a drill press because we would never do that.

However, in thinking outside the box, I am sure I could find a way if I know what tools you have around. I also want to know the surface finish and bore size accuracy requirement. many people don't know this but the outer race of a bearing will reshape to the hole you put it in. IE, you make an oval hole, the bearing race will be oval in there and it will overheat and fail.

For that reason, bearing IDs and ODs should really be done correctly or at least you will come to appreciate.

A drill press is a far cry from a mill head but.... You will want to chuck up as much as possible and chop off any bore bar you get to pretty much nothing. Even at that, it will chatter. Run surface speed as close to 70-100SFM as much as possible and feed in enough you are actually making a chip. I see so many people "rub" the work piece and you will just burn the carbide.

If you buy a head with 'assortment' of bore bars, pretty much every one of them are **** and not worth using as is. You will have to grind what you need, which I would probably target "cuttoff" geometry of face width .125-.1875, create a slot cutter if you will, start with the factory neutral rake angle, and certainly grind some relief or clearance angle on the back.

If you go this direction, trust me, your setup can never be too rigid. Mean steel clamping or bolting as close to the cut as practical. Personally, I would probably use the inner material (the waste material washer you will make) to jam a bolt and washers on to help.

If you intend to just walk it out from 5/8, (that will take a minute), this method could work but again, I stress that bore bar insert prep will be key. You need sharp and slightly positive rake with a minimal corner rad to reduce cut forces.
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Old 02-18-2020, 12:41 PM   #28
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Re: Drilling Large Hole in Steel


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Originally Posted by SPS-1 View Post
The drill chuck is always going to have a Jacobs taper on it. Unless there is an another tapered adapter -- Jacobs taper is what you are looking at.
From what I can tell online, drill presses typically are built with Morse tapers. So being curious, I removed my chuck and measured it with the micrometer. From data online, it seems my measurements show I have a #2 Morse taper (i.e., 2MT). Amazon shows some 2MT boring heads, so that may streamline this process altogether. I won't need to put the boring head in the drill chuck at all. Yay!
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