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Old 02-16-2015, 07:14 PM   #1
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Sealing wide butt joint_plywood & brick


Need suggestions on sealing a ~ 3/8 to 1/2 in. gap in an exterior butt joint between plywood & bricks.

Images are butt joint between the plywood header that runs across the double overhead garage door & where it meets brick veneer (R side of door). I cut out the old, cracked caulking.

2 problems.
1) the back side of ~ 14" high plywood - esp. at lower edge - is about even with the front face of the bricks; or plywood back side is just a bit farther out than brick face.

2) No support wood / nailers behind the end of plywood, near the bricks.

Nothing's behind the plywood ends, so can't stuff backer rod in, or even *easily* fill with wood - before using a good elastomeric sealant.

That was the way they built it (not right).
* One thought was cut a strip of ~ 1/8 hardboard, etc.
* Pry the plywood out from garage door frame just enough to slide the hardboard up the backside of plywood.
* Have a couple small screws already in the hardboard - where they'll stick through butt joint between plywood & bricks.
* Use hot glue to fix hardboard to back side of plywood, then seal joint.

The L side of door has an even wider gap. A good 1/2 to 5/8" wide. Again, no structural lumber behind plywood end. Don't think the back side of plywood is past the bricks, but still.

Good thing is, these are well protected by a wide overhang.
For wider gap on L side, I probably should fill in (some) w/ wood between bricks & plywood end - then caulk. May be called for on both sides.
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Sealing wide butt joint_plywood & brick-butt-joint_plywood-bricks-010.jpg   Sealing wide butt joint_plywood & brick-butt-joint_plywood-bricks-011.jpg  
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:36 PM   #2
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Just glue up a piece of trim to butt the plywood then caulk,prime and paint the trim.
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:38 PM   #3
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Ron's got the right idea, I would suggest the same.

Just out of curiousity, what the heck happened to the brick, with all the smears??
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Old 02-16-2015, 08:04 PM   #4
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Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
Just glue up a piece of trim to butt the plywood then caulk,prime and paint the trim.
Meaning? glue a (say) 3/4" thick piece of trim board over the outer face of the plywood? Have the trim run vertically - cover most of the gap & fit close to the bricks?

Or even use thinner "trim" - made from 1/2" exterior plywood - or such?

For the R side of garage (as shown in 2nd image), I'd almost need to either rabbet out part of the trim piece - that fits on top of the plywood, or add extra on the back side of the trim piece - where it hangs off the plywood header.

Because of how the back side of plywood is past the brick face.
If I don't do something like that, then the back side of added trim piece will still be past the brick face. Not quite as bad as the situation now, but still not ideal.

Re: mortar smears on the bricks. That's called "fine craftsmanship." They didn't clean the bricks (well) after laying. I can't go into detail here w/o violating today's political correctness.
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Old 02-16-2015, 10:59 PM   #5
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Foam backer rod and caulk.
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windows on Wash View Post
Foam backer rod and caulk.
"Nothing's behind the plywood ends, so can't stuff backer rod in, or even *easily* fill with wood - before using a good elastomeric sealant."
Image # 2 - shows plywood & bricks do not butt edge to edge.
The back side of plywood sticks past the front of bricks - nothing to wedge backer rod in between.
Also, see note on image # 1.
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:05 PM   #7
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This is a no brainer....
Wrap it and caulk...?
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:11 PM   #8
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Thanks, but what does "wrap it" mean - in this instance?
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:56 PM   #9
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Backer rod could be used in this instance. I have had success with coating backer rod with silicone caulking before stuffing into place. A couple of finish nails stuck into the backer rod make nice handles to position the backer rod. Once the initial coat of silicone dries then the nails can be pulled out, more silicone applied as necessary then paint to match. The other idea of using a piece of flat trim, nailed vertically on top of the plywood and touching the brick would also work. The trim could be caulked in and painted to match. IF this were mine I probably would add trim to "picture frame" the entire outer edges of plywood.
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:37 PM   #10
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Thanks Thurman.
Yes - at least toward the bottom corner of the end of plywood, there's "nothing there" to wedge backer rod between. Edges of plywood / bricks are offset. So gluing backer rod (or similar) to say, the edge of bricks would be the only way to hold it in place.

Thanks for the idea (could use hot glue). Either way, that wouldn't be any easier than sliding thin hardboard up behind the plywood & hot gluing (to cover most of the gap - from behind. Still, gluing backer rod is decent idea.

For aesthetics, you may be right about trim and / or picture framing the header.
But, I'd have to cut the back side of the trim (vertical piece on end of plywood) on a taper. Which can be done w/ enough time / effort. Because of (think of it as) the brick wall being plumb & the plywood header is severely off plumb.

Covering the gaps w/ wood, trim - then caulking would be more durable, but making the trim to fit this odd ball situation has to be done right, or will look worse than a wide caulked joint.
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:33 PM   #11
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wrapping means to bend metal to fit.
Using coil stock bend the metal to cover the whole piece of plywood. The ends wrap the plywood sides and abut to the brick etc., then caulk. This way you will not have to paint the plywood anymore.
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