Home Repair Question - General DIY Discussions - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > DIY Forum > General DIY Discussions

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 07-06-2015, 06:19 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Home Repair Question


Just had a general question about what a part was called on the outside of a house and how to go about repairing it. The house I have was built in the 1960's and the part runs above the roof of the garage and below the roof of the house. It is all painted wood and looks as though it has a piece of molding that runs along the top, and a 1 x 6 that it is nailed to that runs along the bottom (see attached pic).

I was thinking about stripping the paint, scraping, sanding, priming and painting, but as an alternative to restoring, I was wondering if there would be some kind of aluminum or vinyl siding part that that could just cover it up. And if so, what would the part(s) be referred to as.

Any feedback would help.

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Home Repair Question-dsc03110.jpg  
gsasser is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-06-2015, 06:33 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 36,490
Rewards Points: 18,118
Default


Looks like just a 1 x 6 and shingle molding.
If the old paint was scraped off it could be wrapped with coil stock.
By the looks of it you may have some other issues.
Looks like there's no drip edge, shingles may not have enough over hang.
The wood never should have been in contact with the shingles.
It looks like someone may have smeared caulking at the wood to shingle area, which just makes a mess and does nothing.
__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to joecaption For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-06-2015), jmon (07-06-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-06-2015, 06:34 PM   #3
Retired Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 25,728
Rewards Points: 7,174
Default


That is a 'facia'--that board would be best if replaced with a white PVC board and matching PVC trim.

Any wood you use will be subject to high moisture and lots of maintenance--

Capping that bad wood with aluminum will hide the problem--but allow the old wood to continue to rot.
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-06-2015), Gymschu (07-06-2015), jmon (07-06-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-06-2015, 08:17 PM   #4
Member
 
craig11152's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ann Arbor MI
Posts: 1,991
Rewards Points: 1,220
Default


I would wonder about what sort of step flashing there is(n't) at that elevation change too. You don't want to make it look nice if its a leak waiting to happen.
__________________
Don't look at me. I didn't vote for either one of them.
craig11152 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to craig11152 For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-06-2015)
Old 07-06-2015, 08:57 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 1,918
Rewards Points: 1,836
Default


Yes, re step flashing, there should be some there (that starts under the wood strip and bends 90deg and ends up under the lower shingles) and when you remove that wood strip you have to be careful not to disturb that flashing.

Not sure if the higher piece is a metal drip edge or another piece of wood. If it's a metal drip edge it will be nailed under the higher shingles and not removable. If it's wood just replace it as well. Both should be replaced with PVC, but even with the PVC you should have 1/2" clearance above the lower level shingles. Make sure you don't build up the layers so much that the higher shingles don't overlap at least 1/2".

If you ever get the roof reshingled totally I would replace all of it with one piece of metal.
ChuckF. is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ChuckF. For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-06-2015)
Old 07-06-2015, 09:13 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Thanks for the info. Craig. I like the idea of PVC board and trim that Mike suggested (or a similar material in flashing that you mentioned) due to its weather-resistance.

The wierd thing is exactly what joecaption noticed, that the shingle layer on the bottom goes under the edge of the 1x6 and the molding on top touches the bottom edge of the shingles above it. Both edges have also been flooded with what looks like a silicone caulk.

I am just wondering if I installed a similar setup in PVC, would I have to run silicone above the molding and below the 1x6 in order to seal any gaps where they come in contact with the shingles.

Then there's the issue of removing it all again after it's repaired in order to put a new roof on due to the engineering of the area.

Not the best architectural design I'll admit.
gsasser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 11:23 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 1,918
Rewards Points: 1,836
Default


"the shingle layer on the bottom goes under the edge of the 1x6"
The shingles should go under the 1x6, but the 1x6 should not meet the shingles, there should always be a gap, minimum in your case 1/2" to 1". This assumes there is step flashing under the 1x6 and the lower shingles.

"the molding on top touches the bottom edge of the shingles above it."
This is as it should be.

"Both edges have also been flooded with what looks like a silicone caulk."
The fact that someone did that, likely after the fact, should set off alarm bells in your head. You should get into the attic above the garage and house and see what you can see in this area.

"I am just wondering if I installed a similar setup in PVC, would I have to run silicone above the molding and below the 1x6 in order to seal any gaps where they come in contact with the shingles."
NO! Properly done this will not need any caulk, and certainly not silicone.

"Then there's the issue of removing it all again after it's repaired in order to put a new roof on due to the engineering of the area.
If and when you reroof, you replace this whole pile of junk with a single aluminum flashing that starts under the low shingles, goes up 6", and ends under the high shingles.
ChuckF. is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ChuckF. For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-07-2015)
Old 07-07-2015, 08:15 AM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Thanks Chuck! A very informative and helpful reply. Next step is the tear off and replacement process. We'll see how it goes.
gsasser is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gsasser For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (07-07-2015)
Old 07-07-2015, 07:22 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


That is a "rake board and trim"; pp. 148 "C" or if area below it, "barge rafter/trim" see "D"; https://books.google.com/books?id=E5...20beam&f=false

Fascia is usually at gutter line (eaves), 141-148. I agree with Mike on the PVC, though, :-)

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?

Last edited by Gary in WA; 07-07-2015 at 07:24 PM.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Gary in WA For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-07-2015)
Old 07-07-2015, 08:24 PM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Wow! Thank you for the link to the book covering frame construction Gary. That is a great resource. Diagrams with parts labeled. That's awesome.
gsasser is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gsasser For This Useful Post:
Gary in WA (07-09-2015)
Old 07-11-2015, 07:17 PM   #11
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Just thought I would post an after photo of the facia after it was redone. I discovered that there are two roofs up there and it looks as though the second layer of shingles was caulked along the edge when placed under the 1x6.

With a new roof in sight in the next couple of years, I decided to go with just a touch up job. Went ahead and scraped, stripped, sanded, primed and painted. I am some what happy with the result, but hopefully when they put the new roof on they will tear that junk out and reinstall everything correctly.

Thanks again for all the tips.
Attached Thumbnails
Home Repair Question-dsc03116.jpg  
gsasser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2015, 07:44 PM   #12
Retired Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 25,728
Rewards Points: 7,174
Default


Your roofer will be glad to tear that out---reroofing will be easier and better without that in place---be sure and let them know about the added work---
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-11-2015)
Old 07-11-2015, 08:24 PM   #13
Member
 
GrayHair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Northern Mississippi
Posts: 697
Rewards Points: 1,388
Default


Looks much better. Good work!
GrayHair is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GrayHair For This Useful Post:
gsasser (07-11-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hello from Nashville, TN- from an aspiring home repair extraordinaire! brandall New Member Introductions 2 04-21-2013 04:43 AM
Need URGENT help with question regarding fixing electrical panel in home asledge Electrical 66 02-22-2013 05:49 PM
question about Masonite exterior doors sold at home depot bokeh Windows and Doors 2 06-08-2011 12:14 PM
LB Mower Repair Question kennykenny General DIY Discussions 1 09-23-2007 01:12 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts