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Old 07-11-2008, 05:31 PM   #1
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Hello from goatlady53

Trying to move a dairy goat operation from the wet part of Texas to the dry part and build a house from long distance! Hard to get people out to the middle of nowhere to work on the barn, so I am going to try to do some of it myself so I can have it done like I want. I am tired of contractors telling me you can't do it like that just because they dont want to do it that way, so I am looking on information on doing closed-cell spray foam insulation and also staining and sealing concrete to look like tile. Looking at the soythane spray on insulation. Sounds earth-friendly and easy to use. Putting the insulation inside a metal building, built from a Kentucky Truss steel building kit. Barn on one end/apartment on the other end. Would like to hear from people who have used the soythane.
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:53 PM   #2
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Last I heard, Soythane had not yet been approved for use in residential structures by the International Code Council, and it didn't sound like they were even close. The ICC evaluates products such as this to determine their level of safety and effectiveness. Part of this evaluation is determining flame spread, smoke spread, and fuel contributed in a fire. If you ask me, using any spray foam as an insulator is environmentally friendly due to the level of energy efficiency that can be reached with it.

Due to the level of combustibility of most foam, I would never consider it for use in an application that would remain exposed in the barn. I would only want it in concealed applications behind drywall or other wall covering materials.

I have never seen concrete made to actually look like tiles. However, stamped concrete has become incredibly popular in recent years. After placement and finishing, textured forms are overlaid to give the concrete a stamped surface resembling rock, slate, or brick. The entire floor surface is then stained (a process involving acid wash, cleaning, stain, etc). Here, we call it "stampcrete."
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:51 AM   #3
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I don't think there is a huge savings to be had by using soy-based polyols versus petroleum-based polyols in your spray-foam application. Last I heard, they were similarly priced, within 20%, but with oil prices rising that may be a thing of the past. But on the other hand I don't think you'll see a major price differential...certainly not the same magnitude as the difference between a the cost of a drum of oil and one of soya oil. And remember the polyol is only half the foam equation, you still need the cyanurate portion.

I've always considered spray-foam applications needed to be 'covered' anyways and not left exposed but some applications - perhaps like yours - I am unsure about. But if it's remotely residential, then I'd cover it with a good drywall, if you can. Cheaper than losing your fire coverage in case of a fire...

But if soy-based polyols are at all able to be fire-rated, I am sure they will be. Just look at the names behind that industry and you'll get the impression some 'big' players are there, BASF and Dow to name a few. So if it can be, it's ony a matter of time.

Concrete made using a variety of polymers is essentially much stronger the regular concrete made without and this is the essence of the overlay market. Some of your highways have been overlaid with a polymer based concrete with very good results in wear and durability in severe conditions. We do stamping and overlaying of concrete surfaces using a number of methods; staining is just adding a colour and protecting adds an epoxy coating. But we stamp, trowel and splatter concrete-with-polymers onto suitable concrete surfaces and can make them look like pretty well anything other surface you like. Fairly popular is the tape+splatter texture method of making a surface look like tiles. Any knowledgeable overlay contractor can do this for about $2-5 per sq foot.

But some concrete problems occur from below not on top, so be careful what your are trying to resolve with the concrete treatment. If it's an outdoor application, be careful about sealing concrete from above as you might just hasten the demise of the slab. Your local conditions would dictate which way to go. These are just ideas...
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