1925 Brick Bungalow Attic Project - General DIY Discussions - Page 2

***123pugsy*** · 01-10-2013, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matulch

-pugsy
I re-calculated the room width and got the same results. Both methods give the same answer.

Sorry about that. I thought the picture was a sample from somewhere and not your house.

If this is your house, the numbers are dead on and not looking good at all.

matulch · 01-12-2013, 11:46 AM

If I make the room a general purpose room the average height can drop to 7'

This is what the it would look like.
This option would add 350 sq feet to house I just can't call it a bedroom.

GBR - Not sure what measurements I made before, But I can frame up the window larger to make it up to code.

***123pugsy*** · 01-12-2013, 12:12 PM

That's a decent sized space.

Gary in WA · 01-12-2013, 03:55 PM

Did you ask your AHJ? Usually the knee walls can be as short as needed, only the code lists minimum per room size.

Gary

matulch · 01-18-2013, 10:08 AM

Talked with the local AHJ. He said I could drop the ave height down to 7' and still call it a bed room

He also said I need an R value of 38, so it looks like I need a thick 5.5" layer of spray foam for the room.

I think i will spray 2" on the roof portion that is not part of the room and 5.5" for the part that is part of the room.

matulch · 01-22-2013, 09:36 PM

Here is my insulation plan
use Demilec Heatlok Soy 200 7.4 R value at 1 inch
spray 5.5 in thick for room and 2 in thick for the rest of attic roof.
I am also thinking about adding fiberglass under the 2in foam section of attic.

Here is what the space is looking like.

What do you think?

Gary in WA · 01-24-2013, 05:09 PM

What did he say about venting the lower attics behind the knee walls?

Gary

matulch · 01-25-2013, 07:46 AM

Gary ,

We did not talk about it. He told me to make sure to vent the bathroom If i do put one in.

The attic currently does not have any venting so I think keeping it that way with spray foam would be the easiest way.

matulch · 01-26-2013, 10:27 PM

Looking for a little advice on HVAC for the attic space. How do i know if current HVAC system can handle the extra space?

Should I look into a Ductless Mini Split?

Thanks,
Chris

Gary in WA · 01-27-2013, 12:22 AM

Start another thread in the HVAC forum, here; http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/

Gary

jagans · 02-23-2014, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matulch

Gary ,

We did not talk about it. He told me to make sure to vent the bathroom If i do put one in.

The attic currently does not have any venting so I think keeping it that way with spray foam would be the easiest way.

You had better do some dew point calculations, because the attic use is going from a cold area to a heated area.

Also, If I was you I would see how much deflection you have in those rafters, they look significantly deflected now, but that could be an optical illusion in the photo. What is the age of this home? around 1938? Are you sure on the depth of the rafters? Not 5-5/8"? or even 3/4"?

matulch · 02-23-2014, 10:05 PM

Rafters are 5-5/8 x 1-5/8"

I put a laser on them and did not see much deflection at all less then 1/8 in

I will looking to the dew point calculations.

ron45 · 02-25-2014, 03:15 AM

Judging from the photos you posted your attic has no ventilation. Your insulation plan is an absolute positively NO NO.
I would strongly recommend hiring a contractor, one that can obtain a permit.
One that gives free estimates, get at least three.
Don't just ask the contractor for references or photos. Ask to see actual prints that were submitted for a permit that has the raised seal of approval on them.
In some areas knee walls are allowed to be as low as 4', providing the rest of the code is met.
A good idea would be to get the contractor to do the framing, ventilation, and insulation.

01-12-2013, 03:55 PM	#19
Gary in WA Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 11,730 Rewards Points: 526 View Gary in WA's Album	Did you ask your AHJ? Usually the knee walls can be as short as needed, only the code lists minimum per room size. Gary __________________ If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent. 17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?

01-24-2013, 05:09 PM	#22
Gary in WA Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 11,730 Rewards Points: 526 View Gary in WA's Album	What did he say about venting the lower attics behind the knee walls? Gary __________________ If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent. 17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?

01-27-2013, 12:22 AM	#25
Gary in WA Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 11,730 Rewards Points: 526 View Gary in WA's Album	Start another thread in the HVAC forum, here; http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/ Gary __________________ If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent. 17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?

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01-12-2013, 11:46 AM	#17
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	If I make the room a general purpose room the average height can drop to 7' This is what the it would look like. This option would add 350 sq feet to house I just can't call it a bedroom. GBR - Not sure what measurements I made before, But I can frame up the window larger to make it up to code.

01-12-2013, 12:12 PM	#18
*123pugsy* MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: MARKHAM, ON Posts: 4,140 Rewards Points: 1,442 View 123pugsy's Album	That's a decent sized space.

01-18-2013, 10:08 AM	#20
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	Talked with the local AHJ. He said I could drop the ave height down to 7' and still call it a bed room He also said I need an R value of 38, so it looks like I need a thick 5.5" layer of spray foam for the room. I think i will spray 2" on the roof portion that is not part of the room and 5.5" for the part that is part of the room.

01-22-2013, 09:36 PM	#21
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	Here is my insulation plan use Demilec Heatlok Soy 200 7.4 R value at 1 inch spray 5.5 in thick for room and 2 in thick for the rest of attic roof. I am also thinking about adding fiberglass under the 2in foam section of attic. Here is what the space is looking like. What do you think?

01-25-2013, 07:46 AM	#23
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	Gary , We did not talk about it. He told me to make sure to vent the bathroom If i do put one in. The attic currently does not have any venting so I think keeping it that way with spray foam would be the easiest way.

01-26-2013, 10:27 PM	#24
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	Looking for a little advice on HVAC for the attic space. How do i know if current HVAC system can handle the extra space? Should I look into a Ductless Mini Split? Thanks, Chris

02-23-2014, 10:05 PM	#27
matulch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: bay city, MI Posts: 22 Rewards Points: 18 View matulch's Album	Rafters are 5-5/8 x 1-5/8" I put a laser on them and did not see much deflection at all less then 1/8 in I will looking to the dew point calculations.

02-25-2014, 03:15 AM	#28
ron45 Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 4,821 Rewards Points: 4,796 View ron45's Album	Judging from the photos you posted your attic has no ventilation. Your insulation plan is an absolute positively NO NO. I would strongly recommend hiring a contractor, one that can obtain a permit. One that gives free estimates, get at least three. Don't just ask the contractor for references or photos. Ask to see actual prints that were submitted for a permit that has the raised seal of approval on them. In some areas knee walls are allowed to be as low as 4', providing the rest of the code is met. A good idea would be to get the contractor to do the framing, ventilation, and insulation.

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