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Old 10-20-2017, 01:42 PM   #1
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Water damaged exterior wall


Hi folks, I'm looking for some tips and advice on repairing an external wall that has suffered some water damage due to a poorly installed deck. The wall itself is part of a double garage addition, half of which has been converted into part of the dwelling at some point before we bought the house.

The wall itself looks to be framed with 2x6 lumber and sheathed with OSB with the siding affixed directly with no wrap. The siding stops right above the deck and the deck is attached to a ledger which is fixed right to the OSB and has no water management. The OSB was painted below the level of the deck but has no other protection and has of course rotted over time. The framing has rotted to about 1" - 2" deep. When I finish removing the deck I'll be able to get better access and see how far the damage goes. I have peeled back the siding and the damage seems to have only crept upwards about 6" - 12".

My major concern is that the original part of the house has a wood foundation and the water damage extends to where the garage addition meets the house. Again, I will have a better idea of what's going on once the deck is gone.

Once I have the deck out of the way, my plan is as follows:
  • Remove about 2' of siding above the damaged area
  • Remove the damaged OSB and insulation
  • Repair the framing by sistering and cut out the affected timber, and the sole plate if necessary
  • Add new sheathing
  • Move to the inside, remove the drywall and add new insulation
  • Replace the drywall

When I rebuild the deck, it will be floating and not attached to the house so there will be no need for a ledger.

While I have the wall open, I thought I might as well add a patio door for deck access from that room.

Now, I have a few questions:
  • Should I add some wrap to the area, and if I do, will I have to remove all the siding and take it all the way to the top?
  • How should I protect the area below the level of the deck?
  • Is there anything else I should be aware of?

Sorry for the long post. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
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Old 10-20-2017, 02:38 PM   #2
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Re: Water damaged exterior wall


With a zipper tool you can open the siding. Maybe above the door height and remove it down from there.
Your siding does not seem to match around the corners so you would make the side reference on the corners so they go back in the same place so the top could be zipped back together.

If you are are making the deck free standing away from the house you would install siding all the way down..
If you do back to a ledger put tar paper behind it, galvanized flashing above it under the decking and behind the house wrap.

The new rule is to have the new deck top to be 6" below the floor inside so you don't have rain splash up on the door and or better control of snow.
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Old 10-20-2017, 04:50 PM   #3
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Re: Water damaged exterior wall


In 15 years of being a contractor in VA a made a ton of money from this simple building 101 mistake.
No way should galvanized or aluminum flashing ever be used in direct contact with pressure treated wood!
I agree 100% deck was built to high, sure way to have issues with water coming in under the threshold.
Deck should have been built free standing so there never an issue with the house.
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Old 10-20-2017, 09:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
No way should galvanized or aluminum flashing ever be used in direct contact with pressure treated wood!
There is no flashing! The ledger is on the sheathing with no moisture protection whatsoever, and the deck boards screwed directly to the ledger. So the rain comes down the siding, falls onto the deck, then runs over the top of the ledger and onto the osb.

Last edited by chips; 10-20-2017 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 10-20-2017, 11:53 PM   #5
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Re: Water damaged exterior wall


1. Should I add some wrap to the area, and if I do, will I have to remove all the siding and take it all the way to the top?
2. How should I protect the area below the level of the deck?
3. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

1. No but of course to the top is the usual and correct way. Osb is not waterproof and unlike plywood when it gets wet it swells and does nor shrink back when it drys. So better to take it to the top. But where do you stop. Do the whole house?
So I still like tar paper instead of house wrap. Run tarpaper up as high as you remove siding. Overlapping about 6" each row of tar paper. Then use flashing tape to tape the top edge to the rest of the osb. This stuff is real sticky and should seal the tar paper so water cant get behind that top edge.

2. Below the siding I would not use obs. I would change to something waterproof. I buy 4 x 8 sheets of 1/2" PVC for about $75.00 a sheet. But you could also use the 4 x 8 sheets of smartside that looks like T-111 siding.
Home Depot and think about 25.00 a sheet. Dont let this stuff fool you since the backside of it looks like osb.
I can tell you what will happen if you put a piece of each smartside, osb and fiber-cement siding underwater. The osb forget about. The fiber cement will start delaminating and falling apart after about a week. Smartside will still look good after a month.
Few ways for where the smartside will meat the OSB. Z-flashing. Or just good exterior caulk let dry a day, then flashing tape, then start the tar paper over that. Sort of triple protection for over kill.

3. Not really. But the only problem with decks attached to homes is too many were not done correctly. Not that it will not last. Also if you want a little overkill on the deck framing. They make a flashing tape to cover and protect the top edge of the framing. You can also paint the top edge with roof coating paint. Or even cut stripe of tar paper.
And of course vinyl siding was never designed to waterproof a house. That is why it has small drain holes under each lip. And the ends not sealed.
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Old 10-21-2017, 12:01 AM   #6
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Re: Water damaged exterior wall


One other thing for using PT wood. Expensive but best and safe way is to use stainless nails or screws screws.

I remember when the first ACQ came out. They found out the chemical would eat away normal pressure treated wood fastners.
So you had to use ones that said ACQ approved. Well I tried a couple that rusted thru in 3 years. Now they do have a warranty and they will give you a new box of deck screws. Like that will help.

So when I can it is just stainless. The only sure thing.
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:02 AM   #7
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Re: Water damaged exterior wall


Since the siding is vinyl, you should check under the corner bead and rake trim for leak damages. Under windows/doors/vent-electric-hvac openings for other walls. Since you got the deck apart, it's simply replacing the damaged parts. Use Grace ice shield from homedepot for flashing around pressure treated lumber. I think it's cheapest kind of long term plastic flashing. Don't bother with peeling off the paper. Ice shield does not have to stick to the house frame as long as the water drains well. If drain is not good, adhesive is not the answer.
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:08 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies, they are all very helpful!

I finished demolishing the deck yesterday and got my hand down inside. The sill plate is mush. On the inside, the room used to be cold storage so has the original drywall, then an inch of foam insulation, then OSB. I'm a little worried at this point that this construction of the inside of the wall is the only thing keeping the wall up.

When I come to replace the sill plate, being that this is a gable wall, will I need to build a temporary jacking wall? I was wondering if using 2x4s or 2x6s on the inside, screwed through the OSB, insulation and drywall into the uprights would be enough support to keep things standing while I replace the sill plate and framing?
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