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Old 12-22-2010, 10:53 AM   #16
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Next steps


Sorry, last post was from the phone, what a pain.

Next steps:

I would check the top and bottom plates to see if they are plumb. With properly framed Post and Beam, and all lateral bracing intact, I would be surprised to find one wall out of plumb.

If it is the whole wall out of plumb, check plumb on the opposite wall. The frame of the box may be wracked.

Pictures of ceiling where walls meet.

Thanks
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:43 AM   #17
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I'll pull the insulation and post new pics this evening. I had my work inspected last week and the inspector recommended pulling in the wall because it would continue to move. He did say that it was something I could do. The house is dated to 1900. I think it's older. The opposing wall and back wall are actually plumb. Also, the other windows have structural support even though it's not pretty. I'm pretty sure the exterior is clapboard. It's covered with aluminum siding. I'll also post exterior pics tonight.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:40 PM   #18
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Sorry for the delay, my camera crapped out on me. I had to borrow one. I hope these pics help.

using come along to pull in wall-diy1.jpg

using come along to pull in wall-diy2.jpg

using come along to pull in wall-diy3.jpg

using come along to pull in wall-diy4.jpg

using come along to pull in wall-diy5-opposite-wall.jpg

using come along to pull in wall-diy6-back-wall.jpg
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Old 12-23-2010, 06:38 AM   #19
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Must have been a bad day for cameras.... mine died yesterday too....

If that cat is bothering you, boot her out and tell her to go home, we were wondering where she went....

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Old 12-23-2010, 07:17 AM   #20
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I'm sticking with Thurman's original diagnosis, that the center of the wall is bowed out from having the studs cut to accommodate the window and then something heavy was leaned against it.

Typically exterior walls get out of plumb two ways.

1. They were set that way (unlikely)

2. Something is pushing against the top. That is why I suspected a cathedral ceiling.

If the opposite wall is plumb (lets call it the Left wall), the only way Right wall could be out of plumb is

1. The connection with the Back and/or Front Wall has failed, possible but unlikely.

2. The Back and/or Front wall has grown in length.


If the Top and Bottom Plates are plumb then your problem has a different solution than a come-along. Let us know.

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:36 AM   #21
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Duplicate post

Last edited by CplDevilDog; 12-23-2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:56 AM   #22
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I'm still sold on the fact that the it's all about the lack of adequate window framing and the weight of the roof ridge above (Probably full of snow) was too much for that section causing it to give. The roof is standing seam tin. What do you think about threaded rods to slowly pull in the wall and attach it at the same time? Thanks.

Leslie
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:07 AM   #23
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I'd be concerned about changing pressures on the window frame while you move it. It might be a good idea to pull the window and re-set it afterward, if possible.

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Old 12-23-2010, 10:08 AM   #24
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...or at least pull the sashes out first.

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Old 12-23-2010, 10:39 AM   #25
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I'm pretty sure that in post and beam construction, there is no weight bearing on the studs. To be sure, lets

1. String the top plate from inside bottom to inside bottom. Then we'll know if the wall plate is sagging in the middle (not enough support around the window) or bowing out in the middle(weight pushing out on the wall)

2. We need a plumb reading with a Plate Level to know if the whole wall is leaning.

Last edited by CplDevilDog; 12-23-2010 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:12 PM   #26
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I see your point DM. I was planning to pull the wall very slowly. Like over a week or so. I was hoping that I could get away with leaving the window and sashes. It's freezing out here. My plan is to reset the window once the wall is in and secured. Hope everyone's holidays are going well!!

Leslie
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