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Old 09-15-2009, 09:46 PM   #1
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Tiling shower


I'm replacing a one piece tub/shower with a new tub and tiled walls... The edge of the tiled shower walls will match up with the drywall that covers the rest of the bathroom walls. Just curious if there are any tricks/tips to making sure the two surfaces match up. I plan on using a a bull nose tile piece at each edge to "round off" the tile walls. ...
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:16 AM   #2
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normally the cement backer board is used behind the tile and this is at the same level as the drywall. The tile goes on top of the CBU. Bull nose edging is used to provide the edge against the drywall.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:38 PM   #3
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Sorry, I made some assumptions. I'm using cement board under the tile and was planning on green board fro the remaining walls. There may not be a problem but I'm just concerned the depth of the cement board, mastic or thin set, and tile will be much thicker than the green board and tough to match up.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by cm3putter View Post
Sorry, I made some assumptions. I'm using cement board under the tile and was planning on green board fro the remaining walls. There may not be a problem but I'm just concerned the depth of the cement board, mastic or thin set, and tile will be much thicker than the green board and tough to match up.
I never had an issue with these not matching up. If the tile is raised too much off the cement board, you can always skim coat the sheetrock to bring up the level.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:05 PM   #5
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thx, seems like I'm worrying about it for no reason...
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:01 PM   #6
 
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I never had an issue with these not matching up. If the tile is raised too much off the cement board, you can always skim coat the sheetrock to bring up the level.
Ron
Hey, so what should one do if its the opposite way - ie., the sheetrock is out further than the cement board. I ended up in this situation due to bad studs under my drywall (my mistake for not noticing it soon enough), and the resulting mud/tape left me with up to 1/4" of mismatch (its mud buildup, and I left an edge so to speak right at the tile line).
I'm tiling with 12x12 marble, so its gotta be a good surface.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:55 PM   #7
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Hey, so what should one do if its the opposite way - ie., the sheetrock is out further than the cement board. I ended up in this situation due to bad studs under my drywall (my mistake for not noticing it soon enough), and the resulting mud/tape left me with up to 1/4" of mismatch (its mud buildup, and I left an edge so to speak right at the tile line).
I'm tiling with 12x12 marble, so its gotta be a good surface.
You remove the cement board and shim the wall out to where you need it.
Ron
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:05 PM   #8
 
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You remove the cement board and shim the wall out to where you need it.
Ron
Oh.... The D.W. isn't going to like that.......

I was half suspecting that would be the "right answer".
What is the down side of trowling on thinset with say a 1/4 trowel, and smoothing that out? Is it a longevity/cracking issue with thinset that thick?
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:02 PM   #9
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You remove the cement board and shim the wall out to where you need it.
Ron
all you have to do is feather the gap....like if you were plastering..fill it up with thinset, and just feather it away..
here, you can kinda see it here in this photo....under the waterproofing is the thinset over the tape..
you can see where the wall matches up..
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:13 PM   #10
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here's a better pic..origanly there was 3/8 drywall with 3/8 plaster on top
of that on the walls(like every where else in the house....I used 5/8 rock
instead of 1/2 to stay close to the original width...
here is the rock ..5/8 and the 1/2" durock with the joint feathered with thinset.

Last edited by ebstein; 09-23-2009 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:28 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
Oh.... The D.W. isn't going to like that.......

I was half suspecting that would be the "right answer".
What is the down side of trowling on thinset with say a 1/4 trowel, and smoothing that out? Is it a longevity/cracking issue with thinset that thick?
I guess you could do that, just feather it over at least 1/2 the span of the wall to keep the slope as low as possible so the tiles go on evenly. If you find the wall is not even, you can use the thinset to even out the plane.
Ron
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:44 AM   #12
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I guess you could do that, just feather it over at least 1/2 the span of the wall to keep the slope as low as possible so the tiles go on evenly. If you find the wall is not even, you can use the thinset to even out the plane.
Ron
yep..
when I took off the old tile, plaster and rock, there where 1/8" furing strips all over the place in that shower.....the outside wall I had to rebuild do to water damage, so that one is straight now.. and when I rerocked(with durock) the side with the water supply, I'd thrown out the little strips that were on, and completely forgot about them till I was nailing on the durock....some spots have so much thinset, it isnt funny...

oh well, the pro's just do it faster and get paid...
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