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Old 10-14-2014, 01:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
.....studs warping from drying out is common. where its a non bearing wall the only thing to be worried about is if its very noticable after drywall.. it can create a noticable hump in the wall and make it harder to hang cabinets as it will increase the amount of shimming.....
How long will it take to notice any movement in the drywall? I'm in Alberta so i'm not too sure if the climate effects this.

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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
....Are there no inspections required? What about inspectors working on behalf of any lenders? .....

......I would reject all of the mal-practice described and insist that the builder rectify all of it. The materials were purchased new they should be delivered and installed in new condition. That builder is a joke and deserves to be called-out....
the city comes by and does their inspection but I think they're limited and if it meets bare minimum, they'll pass it. Good point, i'll check to see if my lender and insurance company have inspectors. The home warranty program have told me to go to the government body that does consumer protection, can't remember what they said but pretty much they won't look into it.

As mentioned in my other comment to a reply, i'm considering all options including legal so calling them out might or might not happen. If I can, I definitely will. I'll try to deal with the builder again. Last contact was with the general sales manager. obviously it didn't end favorably.
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Old 10-14-2014, 01:17 AM   #17
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By the way, thanks for all of the replies everyone!
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:36 AM   #18
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The wall studs that have been clipped and sistered---that is a permanent repair and should be fine---
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:38 PM   #19
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Your contractor is cheating you. There is no way you should pay from crap like that. Your home is a prized possession and you deserve to have a better professionals taking care of it.
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:17 PM   #20
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The windows look fine enough. They don't look structurally damaged. It is a mistake to assume that nailing fins do all the shielding work against weather. The weather taping looks wrong, though. The way it looks, and if your builder says that's all you need against rain, then you should stop the work, make them tell you exactly how they plan to do the flashing and siding, post it here and get the reviews.

Are the windows opening and closing normally? Latching without extra effort? Check all windows.

Rough framing looks ok, although they should be planning on the nailers in right spots for later sheetrocking. Any flags that come up here by others, ask your builder.

Check the crushed ducts for seams that may have popped. I'd seam seal the seams and joints, but I'd ask the inspector (fire inspector may be able to tell you) if the duct's capacity to let the air flow had been compromised. It's hard to tell from the photos.

Talk to your general contractor. Ask for time to go over what's been finished and for time to explain it to you. There's no need to get bent over for things that aren't perfect the first time.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:57 PM   #21
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Don't know enough about the windows, but the duct work should definitely be checked. Should an electrical box be touching a metal duct as it appears in the picture? And is that fiberglass insulation around it?

Either way, make sure they seal all the duct joints before drywall goes up.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:20 PM   #22
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I wouldn't accept that poor quality work!
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattttt View Post
How long will it take to notice any movement in the drywall? I'm in Alberta so i'm not too sure if the climate effects this.

the city comes by and does their inspection but I think they're limited and if it meets bare minimum, they'll pass it. Good point, i'll check to see if my lender and insurance company have inspectors. The home warranty program have told me to go to the government body that does consumer protection, can't remember what they said but pretty much they won't look into it.

As mentioned in my other comment to a reply, i'm considering all options including legal so calling them out might or might not happen. If I can, I definitely will. I'll try to deal with the builder again. Last contact was with the general sales manager. obviously it didn't end favorably.
when the drywall is hung you will either have to flex the board to get it tight to the next stud over from the badly bowed one or just after the board is up if you will notice a bump in the wall . it can become even more noticeable once paint hits the wall depending on the lighting. if theres a few bad studs right now its easier to replace those studs..

theres a chance those studs were straight when teh walls were framed but after they dried out they bowed... or the framer simply didnt sight the studs before installing them. when i frame studs with a really bad crown are set aside to cut up for cripples and sils for rough openings.. slightly crowned studs are used for common studs and the deadly straight ones are used for corners or king studs and jacks at door and window openings
the window nailing flanges being so badly damaged can still be properly sealed however them being bent like that can make it harder to get siding and trim to lay flat around the window
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:07 PM   #24
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matt...I used to build custom and strip row housing.... I will try to adress all your concerns...if like further details...please pm me...

ok...the wall studs with cuts and "scabs" attached to the side...perfectly acceptable...that is how walls are straightened

floor joists...also ok. ish. sloppy repair...provided certain tecnical aspects are met ( which requires more info than you provided) repairs are ok...sloppy..ok

windows....rhosr outter fins are installatation strips used to help secure window to wall sheathing...cracks and chips missing...not a technical aspect of window

window tape on outside, that seals the house wrap (moisture barrier) aorund the window...is done like this as is easier to do now rather than further in build...is not a concern

the duct squashed...ISSUE...that will decrease cfm's (cubic foot prr minute) of air flow, deceasing steeam dynamics and possibly generating cold spots in your home...DO NOT accept anything but a fully shaped pipe

if anyrhing I missed let me know...overall, I agree whole heartedly, this builder is sloppy...his trades in parts would be referred to as 'hacks'...not what I would want for my home or customers...technically wrong..not necessarily...but meeting minimum standards would seem to be this builders mo.

things you can do...contact your new home owners warranty program. inform them of all the issues you are not happy with. the builder has I believe in Ontario, one year liability, then 7 thru new home owners warranty...so thy will most likely be on the hook if problems arise later. getting hoen warranty involved is major...builder has over $50 k tied up in warranty overhead with warranty holder, if they arent hapoy with builder, bye bye cash and possibly thier involvement in warranty program thusly ability to build O.O (major )
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:13 PM   #25
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I will preface...I have not built in Alberta, and i have not been in new homes for over 8 years, your home owners warranty may be different. but bottom line, if your not happy, voice it, and do not accept it til you are. its your mortgage and your family home.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:22 AM   #26
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matt...I used to build custom and strip row housing.... I will try to adress all your concerns...if like further details...please pm me...

ok...the wall studs with cuts and "scabs" attached to the side...perfectly acceptable...that is how walls are straightened

floor joists...also ok. ish. sloppy repair...provided certain tecnical aspects are met ( which requires more info than you provided) repairs are ok...sloppy..ok

windows....rhosr outter fins are installatation strips used to help secure window to wall sheathing...cracks and chips missing...not a technical aspect of window

window tape on outside, that seals the house wrap (moisture barrier) aorund the window...is done like this as is easier to do now rather than further in build...is not a concern

the duct squashed...ISSUE...that will decrease cfm's (cubic foot prr minute) of air flow, deceasing steeam dynamics and possibly generating cold spots in your home...DO NOT accept anything but a fully shaped pipe

if anyrhing I missed let me know...overall, I agree whole heartedly, this builder is sloppy...his trades in parts would be referred to as 'hacks'...not what I would want for my home or customers...technically wrong..not necessarily...but meeting minimum standards would seem to be this builders mo.

things you can do...contact your new home owners warranty program. inform them of all the issues you are not happy with. the builder has I believe in Ontario, one year liability, then 7 thru new home owners warranty...so thy will most likely be on the hook if problems arise later. getting hoen warranty involved is major...builder has over $50 k tied up in warranty overhead with warranty holder, if they arent hapoy with builder, bye bye cash and possibly thier involvement in warranty program thusly ability to build O.O (major )
apparently I dont have enough posts to PM haha. I'll get back to you as quickly as I can.
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:15 AM   #27
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Many of those here saying most of that stuff is OK seem to be pros. I am not, though have monitored several of my houses as they went up, and the wife and I built our current house almost entirely by ourselves. Bottom line for me: "structurally acceptable" or not, much of that work is pure garbage that I would not accept under any circumstances. If that's the builder's standard level of quality, don't you wonder what the electric and plumbing might be like? Or the roof? Or even the foundation - take a few measurements and see how level, plumb and square it is.

Every day I lived in a house built like that I would wonder what's going to fail next.
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