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Old 07-06-2009, 01:50 AM   #1
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Technique for accurate placement of ledger


I am replacing a ledger that supports a 4x6 beam as part of a repair project. I will be using 5/8” hot dipped galvanized threaded rod imbedded 7” into the 8” thick grouted CMU wall using Simpson SET-PAC-EZ Adhesive.

QUESTIONS:

I have to drill Ύ” holes horizontally in the grouted CMU wall to insert the 5/8” hot dipped galvanized bolts. This will leave a 1/8” space between the top of the threaded rod and the top of the Ύ” bored hole and no space between the bottom of the threaded rod and the bottom of the hole. I don’t see any way to center the 5/8” threaded rod in the Ύ” hole. Does it matter if the threaded rod is not centered on the axis of the Ύ” hole?

The placement of the new ledger needs to be very accurate so there is a tight fit between the top of the ledger and the new 4x6 beam and the joists the beam supports. What is the best way to accomplish this? I was thinking about waiting for the adhesive for the 5/8” bolts to set then sliding the new 4x6 ledger into position and taping it just hard enough to mark the exposed ends of the 5/8” threaded rods so they leave an impression on the 4x6 ledger. Then I would locate the center of the 5/8” impressions and drill 5/8” holes. Is this a good method? I suspect the accuracy of this method could be hit or miss.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post and consider my questions.

Howard

EXISTING LEDGER




REPLACEMENT LEDGER

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Old 07-06-2009, 07:35 AM   #2
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When we do this in the field, we'll either make a template out of plywood and tapcon it to the block or concrete, or use the final piece (this ledger in your case) as the template and tapcon it. So the steps would be:

1. Make a template and drill holes for the rod.
2. Using the template, mark the holes on the block and on the final ledger piece.
3. Drill the holes in the block.
4. Tapcon the template to the wall, making sure you center the template holes (smaller) over the chem anchor holes (larger). I usually make the holes for the tapcons into slots, so I can adjust.
5. Fill the holes with the epoxy, insert rods.
6. The rods will basically be teetering on the template material, so if you set the template center over the chem anchor holes, the rods will be centered - at least at the template. Sometimes the weight of the rod inboard of the template will cause it to settle at an angle. The trick is to screw on some nuts on the outboard side and get it to balance while the epoxy sets.
7. Remove the template after the epoxy cures, and install the final piece.

I personally don't like waiting for the epoxy to partially cure and use that "stiffness" to get the anchor to sit properly. To me, that's weakening the anchor. I have also seen guys in the field take a sledge to crooked anchors to straighten them out. Again, a big no-no in critical applications.
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggie67 View Post
When we do this in the field, we'll either make a template out of plywood and tapcon it to the block or concrete, or use the final piece (this ledger in your case) as the template and tapcon it. So the steps would be:

1. Make a template and drill holes for the rod.
2. Using the template, mark the holes on the block and on the final ledger piece.
3. Drill the holes in the block.
4. Tapcon the template to the wall, making sure you center the template holes (smaller) over the chem anchor holes (larger). I usually make the holes for the tapcons into slots, so I can adjust.
5. Fill the holes with the epoxy, insert rods.
6. The rods will basically be teetering on the template material, so if you set the template center over the chem anchor holes, the rods will be centered - at least at the template. Sometimes the weight of the rod inboard of the template will cause it to settle at an angle. The trick is to screw on some nuts on the outboard side and get it to balance while the epoxy sets.
7. Remove the template after the epoxy cures, and install the final piece.

I personally don't like waiting for the epoxy to partially cure and use that "stiffness" to get the anchor to sit properly. To me, that's weakening the anchor. I have also seen guys in the field take a sledge to crooked anchors to straighten them out. Again, a big no-no in critical applications.
Thank you for the detailed response. I hope to find time to do it this week.

Howard
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