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Old 03-21-2011, 04:34 PM   #1
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Structural Sag

Hello all.

So I'm starting on this house I got dirt cheap, and there's a reason why (lot's of them) it was cheap.

So in front of this breakfast area there is an overhang of about 28 inches:

It's on the right side of the overhang in the image. It dips down about 3/8" from the block wall (under the stone), to the outside. I've pulled down the ply on the bottom and there are plenty of issues, see here:

As you can see it's not cantilevered as it should be. The arrow points to a 2x10 that's cantilevered into the basement about 40". On the left side, where there is no sag, the 2x10 acts as the rim along the side. In the basement all of the joists run from the left to right.

If you look at the back of the image, that joist is actually inside the basement, there is no rim along that 12 foot wall. On the exterior, under the window is a single 2x10.

From what I see there is no real damage to the 2x10 where the sag is, but the 2x10 on the outside, under the window and acting as a "beam", should be a double at least.

So I can't imagine that would meet code, even 30 years ago. I'm looking for ideas to fix the issue. If I remove a couple of joists in the basement I could cantilever it with joists every 16". tied to next joist. That would give me about 58", which I understand would be adequate for the 28" overhang?

I plan to switch out the windows and re-side, so fixing all of those issues is doable, just looking at the most affordable fix that's correct.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm planning to have a couple of quotes, and I'm sure having an engineer out would be good.

Last edited by JoeLena; 03-21-2011 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:21 PM   #2
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I see no reason for an Engineer but just a Competent Contractor.

The rot you see is simply neglected siding/window issues.

The best way to deal with this is to do the siding, windows, and rot repair all at the same time, since they all go hand in hand with each other.

Stay away from Box Store Contractors. Find someone that could build you a house and knows what’s involved from frame to finish.

In the end that will be the most “affordable approach” to protect your investment.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:56 PM   #3
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It's my understanding that any overhang greater than 12" requires an engineer.

But does it need to be an overhang? I live a bit north of you and my frost line is about 12" deep. Maybe you can dig some footings, pour some concrete, and install a couple posts?
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:22 AM   #4
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The main support framing should be perpendicular to the window wall, not parallel. It should start deeper into the house framing and cantelever out from the wall. If you want to avoid all the framing, supports posts are the way to go.
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