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Old 09-30-2009, 03:40 PM   #1
 
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Soffit problem


I just finished completely tearing out a metal soffit on a brick ranch style house. All of the fascia board is rotten and so are some of the ends of the 2X4 rafters. I removed the Fascia board which was a 1X6.
I then went a bought new 1X6 lumber after I measured the old boards which were 5 1/2" wide. The same size as what I bought.
However, when I statred to put it up I laid a level from the top of the brick (this is where the old metal soffit started) to the bottom of the fascia board and it wasn't even close to level. I measured and I will need a fascia board that is 6 1/8" wide to make it level. I can't buy this so I will have to rip a 1X8. What happened that the old soffit was level and the new has to be 5/8" wider?

Thanks
Marty

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Old 09-30-2009, 03:52 PM   #2
 
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Picture of soffit


This is a picture of the soffit after the tera out
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:13 PM   #3
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Fascia and sub-fascia are often both installed like this. It makes it easier to string out a straight line without having to shim rafter tails.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:30 PM   #4
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Just bring your sub-fascia down level with where you intend to run the bottom face of your soffit (minus, of course, the thickness of the soffit material) and things should work out fine.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:11 PM   #5
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Thank you for the pictures Willie T. I always cut the tails straight line, never heard of anyone dropping the fascia. I presume FireChief had them that way, but with one finished fascia, no sub. That would explain the water splash rotting the sheathing and truss tails as in the picture. I would install some drip flashing to cover the end grain of the roof OSB sheathing, then the new fascia board and gutter.
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:08 AM   #6
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I'm kind of a freak about this stuff. Unless VERY constrained by someone's budget, I'll go with the wider sub-fascia, and bevel the top edge to match the rafter tops. I like to be able to thoroughly fasten down the sheathing all the way along.

I'd like to see the OP go ahead and use larger lumber............ but it sounds like he's not in a position to spend the extra $.

If you are willing to spend a little extra time and coin, FC, this is how it would best be done.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:12 AM   #7
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Fire chief. Do you have pics of how it was? The heights obviously didn't change so you are doing something different. If the fascia board was wrapped in metal then I suspect that your soffit was 1/2" thick and was attached to the bottom of the old fascia and then wrapped with metal. That would explain a 1/2 " difference between the top of the brick and the bottom of the fascia since the bottom of the soffit would be even with the top of the brick and the top of the soffit would be even with the bottom of the fascia board.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:42 AM   #8
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I'm assuming you've taken into account the fact that your brick is about a half to five eights of an inch lower than the bottom of your old fascia? (That thin black line is level)

This is to allow for the thickness of the soffit material, as jogr mentioned above.

The red stripe is where your old soffit would have run.

(Go up to <PAGE> on the upper right toolbar, click on "ZOOM" on the dropdown menu, then select 200% to see these pictures better.)
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Old 10-01-2009, 12:45 PM   #9
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I even have trouble posting with changes.....
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Old 10-01-2009, 12:57 PM   #10
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Willie, I'm an old dog--- I just hold "control" and tap the "+=" key 9 times. Same for minimize. Probably why I can't draw (on computer). lol
Firechief, when you install your soffit vents, use continuous aluminum screening located right next to the fascia board to prevent wind driven rain and snow from entering as it blows up along the house wall.
Use 1/100, not 1/150 as the article used for your NFVA requirements: http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml
Be safe, Gary
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:05 PM   #11
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Yeah, but if you miscount going up on screen size, how do you know when to stop coming back down? Just do it till it fills the sceen? That'll work though.
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:07 PM   #12
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I use a Toshiba notebook, top r.-bookmark key,windows k., pause break k., prt. scrn. key, down- home k., page up, page down, end key.
Any sound familiar?
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Old 10-02-2009, 04:05 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Thank you for the pictures Willie T. I always cut the tails straight line, never heard of anyone dropping the fascia. I presume FireChief had them that way, but with one finished fascia, no sub. That would explain the water splash rotting the sheathing and truss tails as in the picture. I would install some drip flashing to cover the end grain of the roof OSB sheathing, then the new fascia board and gutter.
Be safe, Gary
Hi GBR

I THINK what you mean by sub fascia is what I am calling the fascia board which is covered by the metal. Is that correct?

I am not a carpenter but I thought I could replace the soffit until I ran into all the rot. Anyway, I just want the metal soffit to be level. What I plan on doing is nailing to the rafters tails a 1 X ? ( i might have to rip a board to the correct width) so when I tack the metal soffit to it on the bottom edge it will be level from the top of the brick to the bottom of the fascia board.. There will be a metal drip edge over the edge of the sheathing and the top of the fascia board. This will all be covered by meatal when i am finished.

If all this makes any sense to you what my question is......."Is the fascia board top flush with the top of the sheathing or is it installed under the sheathing."
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Old 10-02-2009, 05:01 PM   #14
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Under, as in the lower picture in post #6. Your Fascia metal also goes under the drip edge.
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:53 PM   #15
 
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Soffit


I think I FINALLY got it. This all has been a big help. The last pic said a lot.

Maybe you can teach an old dog some new tricks HUH.

I burned them down. Never tried building them LOL

Thanks again

Be safe

Marty
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