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Old 01-04-2010, 12:23 PM   #1
 
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screw jack to stiffen floor bounce


50s house, structurally sound.

However, there is some floor bounce in the dining room. The china cabinet is in that room and you can hear dishes making slight clinking noises, with each step. Seems purely aesthetic and not a structural issue at all.

I can access the crawl space, and figure a screw jack on a level block (or cap block) holding a 4x4 across several joists would provide some stiffness and dampen the bounce.

Is this OK? Code here for structural beams is to have a relatively deep footing. This is cosmetic, not structural. Can I proceed?
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:37 PM   #2
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don't see why not, but i could be wrong too.
i've seen plenty of homes with jacks of all types supporting underneath.
most looked to be done by homeowners.

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Old 01-04-2010, 01:08 PM   #3
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Instead of a screw jack I'd use lumber on concrete block. A single 2x6 is stiffer than a 4x4. Don't support it in a single spot.

I have 2x6's under my house to de-bounce the floors. Works great. I use hurricane clips to attach the 2x6 to the joists.
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:48 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyper View Post
Instead of a screw jack I'd use lumber on concrete block. A single 2x6 is stiffer than a 4x4. Don't support it in a single spot.

I have 2x6's under my house to de-bounce the floors. Works great. I use hurricane clips to attach the 2x6 to the joists.


Sounds good, and cheaper. Without the "screw" effect, how do you add tension to reduce bounce?
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Without the "screw" effect, how do you add tension to reduce bounce?
Ayuh,... Tap in a few shims from both sides...
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bondo View Post
Ayuh,... Tap in a few shims from both sides...
Exactly! Works great. You might also find that some of the joists are slightly larger than some of the others, so a pack of shims is necessary.

You can also use a pneumatic jack to lift the framing slightly when inserting the lumber -- this can be especially useful if there's a little sag on them. The last one I put in I cut the timber posts about 1/8" too long and we used a big hammer to make them fit, which produced a nice, solid floor. Any combination of those three methods can work well, depending.

One caution -- if the humidity levels will change a lot where ever the new support is, then if you put it in when it's really humid it might fall loose when it dries out.

Last edited by pyper; 01-05-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by pyper View Post
You can also use a pneumatic jack to lift the framing slightly when inserting the lumber -- this can be especially useful if there's a little sag on them.
Absolutely.... this is also a good time to level the floor as well.

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Old 01-05-2010, 04:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlzim View Post
50s house, structurally sound.

However, there is some floor bounce in the dining room. The china cabinet is in that room and you can hear dishes making slight clinking noises, with each step. Seems purely aesthetic and not a structural issue at all.

I can access the crawl space, and figure a screw jack on a level block (or cap block) holding a 4x4 across several joists would provide some stiffness and dampen the bounce.

Is this OK? Code here for structural beams is to have a relatively deep footing. This is cosmetic, not structural. Can I proceed?

Go for it keep it simple as you stated it's not structural you just want to tighten it up a little not build a new house.

Last edited by SULTINI; 01-05-2010 at 04:18 PM. Reason: Maybe two jacks with a spread would be better
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