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Old 10-11-2014, 08:38 PM   #1
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Rotted joist


I have one 14' 2x8 joist that has old termite damage in the first foot off the sill. Can anyone tell me the proper repair or code for correcting this damaged piece of wood?


Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:51 PM   #2
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It depends on what the ends are bearing on?Foundation?What? pictures will help?
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:24 PM   #3
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I don't know about code, but, I had the same thing in my home and replaced the whole floor joist. I just didn't want to sister anything to a damaged joist. Replacing the whole thing seemed to be the best idea. It's not a difficult job, especially if you have some help.
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:37 PM   #4
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I don't have any pics yet, but the rotted side is resting on the foundation. I can sister one in on one side but I don't know if that the best choice...it would be the easiest.

I may just replace the whole thing so all the rot is gone.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:33 AM   #5
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I'd say sister to the old joist the new joist and then cut back the rotted area on old joist afterward when the new joist holds up everything. pulling out full length joists involves the subfloor nails being compromised and you can not re nail new joist to sub floor... if you do tear the old one out use construction adhesive to moosh between subfloor and new joist- use the adhesive even if you sister as well.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:06 AM   #6
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I agree with hand drive, there is no good reason to remove the old joist unless you happen to already have all the old subflooring out anyway.
You did get a real termite treatment done, right?
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Old 10-12-2014, 01:59 PM   #7
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If it is rotten or smells, defiantly cut out the bad parts with a swazel.

When you sister a joist you need the same length 14 feet, good luck with that.
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Old 10-12-2014, 04:56 PM   #8
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I've done hundreds of them that where eaten up with fungus, termites, powder post beetles.
Cut off any nails in the way sticking through the floor, slide them in laying flat, then tip them untill the top makes contact and use a maul to get them to tip into place.
Not fun but it sure can be done.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:00 AM   #9
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good advice Joe. another way is to cut a notch at end and then shim joist once up tight to subfloor, saves slamming with the sledge. just need about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance for the edges to not get jammed
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:11 AM   #10
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Instead of a notch rounding the edges bit should make it roll in easier.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:37 AM   #11
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Yes, if joints damaged by termite, then i think their is no way to repairs it, if you do then its a waste of time and money, for safely, you have surely change them.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
Instead of a notch rounding the edges bit should make it roll in easier.
1 1/2" minimum bearing requirements here for strucural. if you roundover the foward edge at the bottom and the back edge at top it could work- just work the joist into place top tipped in first followed by the bottom slammed in with the sledge.

as a side note I have shaken many a homes slamming them in with the sledge. be careful not to knock pictures off the wall or crack the wall or floor if tile.
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:09 PM   #13
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Sorry for not getting back with you guys sooner; you offered great advice. The joist did have termite damage but it was long before I bought the house and my inspector failed to recognize the damage. Either way we had no current signs of termites just an old chewed up joist and termite poop. I took a new 2x8x14 and sistered it up again the existing joist, bolted them together with 5/8" diameter bolts and then cut out the bad end and matched the paint. It now function and looks great! Thank you guys again for all you help!!!
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Old 10-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #14
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Seems odd to me that only one joist was termite eaten. How close to the earth is the bottom of the joist?
If less than 12" then pressure treated lumber may have had to be used or at least might have been a good idea.


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