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Old 07-21-2013, 04:12 PM   #1
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Replacing 4"x10" rafter: Termite Damage


Hello all,

One of the 4"x10" rafters in our house is getting eaten away by termites. We do fumigate every ten years. I'm planning on cutting out and replacing the rotten portion, say if I cut where the red line is?

I've replaced termite damage 2x4 roof rafters, where you just cut at a 45 degree angle and then toe nail it in. Would this be any difference since it's a 4x10 instead of a 2x4? Do you guys recommending using a bracket to support the weight of the 4x10?





This is a pic of the inside of the house.


Thanks!

It's a 1950s house, the "enclosed entrainment room" was made in 1960. We're in Southern California.

Last edited by aminus21; 07-21-2013 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:33 PM   #2
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Sure does not look like a rafter to me, nor does it look like termite damage.
Looks like floor joist cantilevered out over the wall.
Looks more like water damage from the lack of a fascia board, roofing left to short, or no drip edge. No way to know without a picture of the roof area.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #3
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Here's a pic of the roof from above and closer pics
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:44 PM   #4
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Insect damage or not, it looks like water is getting down behind the guttering.
No matter; if those 4x10s are cantilevered out, difficult to see how you could get an adequate connection working from below.
Purists might be horrified, but could you just cut away the worst bits, drive a threaded bar into the sound end of the cut timber, and build it up using wood hardener and resin filler? It would only be a cosmetic fix but, if no-one was to stand on the edge of the roof above that point, would it matter?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:18 PM   #5
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You guys are right, I went on the roof and poured a gallon of water, and indeed I did see water dripping on the rotted portion of the beam.

There is a drip edge, but it seems like either there is a hole in the gutter or some other path for the water to get to that beam. I will be replacing the gutters. For the beam, I will replace the rotted portion.

For replacing it, is it cutting it at a 45 degree angle and toenailing in?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:43 PM   #6
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Someone used the cheapest, shortest lived rolled rolling and then even left it short of the edge of the roof.
That so called drip cap was suppose to be installed over the gutter not under it.
Odd looking gutters, looks like someone used steel screws to attach them.
Should have been 5" K style gutters with hidden gutter hangers.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:18 PM   #7
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why are the ads over this person's first post, I can't read it! is there a way to change the view? This new site format is strange. Sorry for posting this here. I wanted to help this user, but saw this.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #8
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it would be kinda hard to do. but if it were me, i would cut it straight. drill a few 1" holes (make a template) and dowl & glue it.
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:54 PM   #9
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Depending on your ability, the strongest repair would be to cut 2" in on one side and 2" in from the other side as far away from each other as you can, called a ship lap joint. Cut, (rip), the 10 inch way from one cut to the other. You then have a horizontal section to glue and fasten your new interlocking piece to. You would actually remove the whole tail rotted piece at the first cut, so you can start the rip cut easier.
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