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Old 01-20-2010, 02:43 PM   #16
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Our attached garage will be converted to bedroom/bathroom. The current rafters are 2x6 24" o.c. The ceiling is comprised of 2x4s 24" o.c. I would like to remove the 2x4s and add 2x6 about 4 ft. higher (still within the lower 1/3 of the attic space).

I've already contacted the building inspector, but waiting to hear back. Anyone know if this will work? He didn't say it wouldn't when I mentioned it earlier, but I thought I'd double check.
why are you not hitting your head now?
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:06 PM   #17
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We're here, we're here........ http://myconco.com/ComEngProb.html

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:07 PM   #18
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why are you not hitting your head now?
Tell me about it. I almost didn't say a thing, but I thought it would be a pain if I had to tear everything down. He got back to me and said it sounded like it would work, but he needed plans. I showed him what I was planning on doing and I'm waiting to hear back. Now I just need to figure out how I can keep the ties a little in the upper 2/3 so I can walk through the door.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #19
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So I HAVE to keep the entire tie within the lower 1/3....awesome

Any ideas how I can manage the doorway since the rafter ties will be right in the way of the top of the door. (stepping down into the space).
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:23 PM   #20
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where is the door in relation to the centerline of th roof
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:14 PM   #21
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You need 6'8" high at the door. I've had to raise the ceiling 4" after the door for 3'x3' area before. See if they will let you use a 2x10 ? and notch the required headroom entrance to the room at the door only.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:22 PM   #22
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Thanks, I thought that might work too. I planned on using 2x8 for the rafter ties.....they will span approx. 15 ft. Would 2x10 be better?

The door is about 2 feet off center of the ridge. It has to remain there, otherwise I'd be getting too far into our living room and taking up space there.
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:27 PM   #23
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was thinkinking of a vault to ceiling joists kind of like a tray. you would need structural stamped drawings but you would be building a truss type configuration with a flat ceiling. like i say it would need to be designed. thats why i wondered where door was for vault clearance
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:38 PM   #24
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I even thought of putting the rafter ties at the highest allowable spot and then to figure out the door, I'd run a 2x? across the wall that the garage shares with the house and build a soffit where the door area would be from the first suspended rafter tie slanted back towards the door opening. Similar to what Gary mentioned. I'd rather stay away from having to get an engineer in here....just hoping my building inspector allows my plans to go through.
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